Hello,

I just finished installing Time-Serts in almost all the water pump mounting holes in the block, and am wondering as long as I have this stripped block in front of me, are there any others I should consider installing better threads into? I had one really messed up thread on the water pump mounting-I actually had to use a Keysert, which has a larger diameter than a Time-Sert. What would be some of the other points on the block or head I should consider doing? The oil pan mounting? The oil pump?

Thank you for your suggestions,

Rick

 

the two holes in the water jacket on the front of the block above the waterpump (that connects to the head) would be good.

but the 944 engine doesn't really have "weak" threads, they only get stripped if someone overtightens the hardware.

don't re-thread anything that doesn't need it. use a tap/carb cleaner to clean the threads out, sure, but don't go drill-happy.

 

When I have an engine apart, I run a tap or die in every hole or stud. Then I assemble with antisieze.

 

Do you use normal cutting taps or chasers? I bought a set of thread chasers for this purpose, but they seem to damage more threads than they fix. I was wondering if it's better to just use a cutting tap.

 

I use regular cutting taps. I have a screwdriver type handle so I can run them in and out quickly (and can't put too much torque on it).

 

As Van said, all of them for accurate torque readings. Stretch type bolts may not turn out well and should be replaced.

 

I would go for the 2 holes for the bolts that hold on the right angle casting on the top of the block that the upper radiator hose connects to. I have had trouble with these on several engines.

 

The water neck that attaches to the head? I'll do that. I was also thinking about the oil cooler housing bolt holes, as I've read of a few here that have stripped those out. That is something that can be expected to come apart multiple times over the years of ownership.

Generally, I'm really surprised Porsche used miniscule M6 fasteners to hold stuff together that actually matters. M6 bolts are ok for things like wire harness tabs, or small wire gauge auxiliary ground connections, but the water and oil pumps? That's crazy! They'd been better off using a smaller number of M8 or M10 fasteners, which would've proven more robust and resistant to stripping out than M6s.

Thank you for the advice!

 

+1 for doing the oil cooler bolt holes ... had to time cert two of them and the leak at the time ruined a good track weekend ...

Cheers
Phil