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It would be pretty generous to give away a Porsche that has any pedigree! Especially at $7 per raffle ticket haha.
I just thought it was a cool "rally style" build that I would share. It's pretty rare to see that done on this platform.
I'm not a huge fan of the wing either. I can say that if I had won that thing I would put a cage in it and have a blast driving the **** out of it down some dirt back-roads or doing some rallycross!
It's probably the only way this guy is going to get his money back. That could not have been cheap to do all that has been done (except the wing ).
Yes - "rally style" is accurate.
Yes - the car would very likely be fun. The work looks first rate, and he found a way to put a spin on it that may help get him back above water.
Her is one beaten up 924/944. Entering the Danish Folkerace(Rallycross) championship. After the race, you have to put up your car for auction. At a price of 6000 or 9000 Dkr.(1000$ or 1500$) Depending of witch class your are in. This is done, to keep the prices down in this class.
But unsure it it will process a "miles" input & give me a "kilometers" output.
The ALFA-Elite sets the standard for rally computers, with more features for less money. Our customers prove it regularly by winning rallies!
All ALFA-Elite computers feature the latest state-of-the-art OLED back lit display which is easily read in all lighting conditions and viewing angles.
A non-volatile memory remembers your factors, mileage's, log entry, and customized setup even when the ALFA is removed from the car for extended periods.
The ALFA-Elite has dual odometer sensor inputs, with individual factors, to insure safety. Also, the computer will operate either with or without its drivers display attached.
The ALFA-Elite operates in Miles or Kilometers, and displays distance in increments of .01 or .001. Time may be displayed and computed in your
choice of seconds, hundredths, or thousandths of a minute.
One of the cool new features for 2012 is the driver's display which may be
disconnected from the computer at any time while both continue to run.
The main unit will continue to rally, while the driver's display becomes
a checkpoint clock with memories. While separated, the driver's display
may be synchronized with the main time clock for the rally, and then
when reconnected to the main unit that will synchronize as well. This
is an industry first and gives you 2 tools for the price of one!
New for 2012:
NO MORE RIBBON CABLES!
Organic LED displays for 100% readability any time
(Old style LCD display still available as an option)
Front panel light for easier night operation
All connections via standard round DIN connectors
Driver's display operates independantly as a checkpoint clock
Syncs to the ALFA-Club and ALFA-Checkpoint
"Open Road Racing" mode. (ie: Silver State Classic, etc.)
Special Driver features:
Low Profile Driver's display
Organic LED displays for 100% readability any time
"NULL METER" analog style readout
High precision digital timing error readout
CAS display
Factor corrected speedometer
Incremental, Course, and Countdown odometer
Drivers button to reset incremental mileage
5.5" x 2.3" x 1.5"
Navigator features:
OLED display technology
User friendly, guess free entry
On the fly" timing and course corrections
Instant CAS error leg recalculation
Time and Distance in Hundredths, Thousandths, or Seconds
Dual odometer inputs with separate correction factors
Automatic factor calculation
SIX DIGIT odometer correction factor
Countdown alarm with audible beeper
Automatic event logging and last HOLD recall
Logs all CAS changes and timing corrections
Compact and light - 7.7" x 5.1" x 2.0", ~1 lb.
Aircraft aluminum enclosure with baked enamel finish, Hard mounting points, and integral sunshade.
I have an old ALFA PRO. It's similar to the Elite - but I think the Elite is an "A"-box. The PRO is often referred to as a "B"-box in road rally circles. I.e. it allows one to calibrate distance accurately. Whereas the "A" box actually will allow a correlation between speed and distance and provide an output to the driver as to how he/she is doing on time (early or late - or when you're doing it right - right on time).
The top shot is of the ALFA in Walter. It's been in and out of many different rally cars for the past 20+ years.
Keep in mind - this device does not care if you want miles or kilometers - it's just a different factor that you need to input. It also allows you to use seconds or hundredths of a minute. We use the latter for our road rally timing.
We also use a Timewise (lower shot) rally computer when we run in the top class (Equipped). As mentioned above, it provides direct feedback in the form of a display for the driver. The "B"-box requires the navigator to announce "early", "late" or "zero" after performing a manual comparison of actual time versus ideal time for the given location along the route. It depends how much you want to spend and which class you choose to run in.
Thanks for representing the 944 in Germany. ALWAYS love the rare opportunity to see these cars in Rally format. Well done.
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Question for experienced drivers of gravel or otherwise loose surface. I have experienced a problem with almost crashing when avoiding a pot hole last minute and the *** end comes around ("wants to switch ends"). So I countersteer and now the *** end wants to come around the other side. If this was on tarmac, the episode would have ended sooner I would think, but I find on the loose gravel I might need to counter steer 5-6 times (almost loosing it) to get the car neutral again. Is there something I can do with the peddles to get back to neutral?
Thanks for representing the 944 in Germany. ALWAYS love the rare opportunity to see these cars in Rally format. Well done.
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Question for experienced drivers of gravel or otherwise loose surface. I have experienced a problem with almost crashing when avoiding a pot hole last minute and the *** end comes around ("wants to switch ends"). So I countersteer and now the *** end wants to come around the other side. If this was on tarmac, the episode would have ended sooner I would think, but I find on the loose gravel I might need to counter steer 5-6 times (almost loosing it) to get the car neutral again. Is there something I can do with the peddles to get back to neutral?
Sorry, hadn´t been online here for a while.
I have experienced your issue, when:
a) I do not countersteer enough (angle) or not FAST enough
b) I initiate the drift, whilst I am too slow
c) the car gets in a drift, when i did not take that into account before
d) I lift the gas pedal too much, so that car goes into deceleration mode
a) it is better to countersteer far too much than little too less. As long as it done in order to get the car back to neutral. Doesnt´t look too cool, but helps to let the car stay in shape
b) when you are too slow and want the car to oversteer by stepping on the gas, it might oversteer too much. You have to countersteer very very fast
c) when you are not prepared, that this may happen.... mmmmmhhhh.... better be prepared
d) DON´T EVER let the car go into deceleration whilst you are power oversteering. You can drift with different methods like braking, clutch, E-brake, feint and stuff, but you have to be sure what you are doing. When you are power oversteering, better not lift the right foot, unless you start spinning. If so, then lock the brakes completely. AND DON´T LIFT THE RIGHT FOOT, EITHER
Additionally the decribed problem is connected a little bit to a lacking LSD. and a heavy backend. As soon, as you have an LSD, the drifts get more stable (including the initiation and the end of the drift). Those torsens are good for that, the clutch types normally even better (as long as it comes to stability).
Maybe make the car lighter in the back. She will loose a little bit of traction but drifting gets easier and understeering is reduced.
BTW you should have the right setup, too (camber/toe/spring rates/tyre compound)
a) I do not countersteer enough (angle) or not FAST enough
b) I initiate the drift, whilst I am too slow
c) the car gets in a drift, when i did not take that into account before
d) I lift the gas pedal too much, so that car goes into deceleration mode
a) it is better to countersteer far too much than little too less. As long as it done in order to get the car back to neutral. Doesnt´t look too cool, but helps to let the car stay in shape
b) when you are too slow and want the car to oversteer by stepping on the gas, it might oversteer too much. You have to countersteer very very fast
c) when you are not prepared, that this may happen.... mmmmmhhhh.... better be prepared
d) DON´T EVER let the car go into deceleration whilst you are power oversteering. You can drift with different methods like braking, clutch, E-brake, feint and stuff, but you have to be sure what you are doing. When you are power oversteering, better not lift the right foot, unless you start spinning. If so, then lock the brakes completely. AND DON´T LIFT THE RIGHT FOOT, EITHER
Additionally the decribed problem is connected a little bit to a lacking LSD. and a heavy backend. As soon, as you have an LSD, the drifts get more stable (including the initiation and the end of the drift). Those torsens are good for that, the clutch types normally even better (as long as it comes to stability).
Maybe make the car lighter in the back. She will loose a little bit of traction but drifting gets easier and understeering is reduced.
BTW you should have the right setup, too (camber/toe/spring rates/tyre compound)
Thank you for your well thought out response Steve... much appreciated!
We took our car out to the desert in Joshua Tree this past fall to get a taste of some stage rally style driving since we have only done rallycross so far.
I'm prepping it for stage rally. This weekend I'm installing 993 headlights and will be making a light pod to hold additional lights. Once this covid stuff lightens up a welder friend is going to come out to do the welding on the cage. I feel comfortable welding most things but not that.
I used 3D photogrammetry to scan the inside of the car and I'm designing the cage in Solidworks based on the model generated so that I can hopefully cut down on the guesswork a bit. I still have some tweaking to do in Solidworks but I'm hoping to be able to bend and notch everything by the time my friend can come out based on the CAD model.
3D Scan dense point cloud:
3D model generated from cloud:
The 3D model is super dense so I just created a bunch of basic geometry to use as reference planes to lighten the load on my computer when doing the CAD work:
Here is the very first go at the cage. It meets the FIA requirements but I need to tweak it in places (like the door bars need to touch to make an X, etc) and double and triple check the measurements against the car. I can output cutting templates for each bar to notch them accurately.
Hopefully once that's done I can find some time to paint it since it's about 10 different colors right now.
Future plans include swapping a built turbo 07k engine, and proper rally suspension.
We took our car out to the desert in Joshua Tree this past fall to get a taste of some stage rally style driving since we have only done rallycross so far.
I'm prepping it for stage rally. This weekend I'm installing 993 headlights and will be making a light pod to hold additional lights. Once this covid stuff lightens up a welder friend is going to come out to do the welding on the cage. I feel comfortable welding most things but not that.
I used 3D photogrammetry to scan the inside of the car and I'm designing the cage in Solidworks based on the model generated so that I can hopefully cut down on the guesswork a bit. I still have some tweaking to do in Solidworks but I'm hoping to be able to bend and notch everything by the time my friend can come out based on the CAD model.
3D Scan dense point cloud:
Here is the very first go at the cage. It meets the FIA requirements but I need to tweak it in places (like the door bars need to touch to make an X, etc) and double and triple check the measurements against the car. I can output cutting templates for each bar to notch them accurately.
Hopefully once that's done I can find some time to paint it since it's about 10 different colors right now.
Future plans include swapping a built turbo 07k engine, and proper rally suspension.
Looks nice. Are those fiberglass pieces at the front? 968 style?
Regarding the 07k engine. Be sure to check the rules. Pro Rally went through a restrictive period where only engines from the same family would be allowed. But since SCCA and Rally America are no more, maybe that's not a thing. Do you plan to run ARA or, maybe CRS is a separate series from a larger organization?
05-11-2016, 01:12 PM
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