V2Rocket

the weight difference is between early NA cars and the later cars.
there is more plumbing and stuff yes but the bodies and components are somehow heavier (i dont know why specifically).

my car, full tank, full interior, spare tire+tools, all glass and steel (basically as if i just bought it) is 2750lbs.

a stripped no-interior, maybe fg hood and plastic window 951 weighs about the same. the S2 isn't far off from the 951 weight.

FrenchToast

I concur!

I misread and thought you were comparing an S2/Turbo to a similar year NA. Yes, the early Series I cars are lighter, and the 924 lighter still. How much exactly I don't know. I think he added weight is mostly due to additional brackets, braces, provisions, etc. etc. (and fenders in the case of the 924).

All that said, I don't think a bare stripped 924 shell would weigh too much less than a bare stripped S2 shell. But even the smallest things add up: the early 924 has no hood shocks, lighter wiring harness, etc.

It would be interesting to get actual weight values for a bare early 924 shell compared to a bare 968 shell.

L Cubed

So since I intend to drive the car to the events I was considering (at a later date) a roll bar with seats and 5pt harness for use at the event and drive there just using the 3pt OEM belts; how does this sound?

As for the steel control arms, are there any options for the long arms (ABS car) other than those from Fabcar/Racer's Edge and such?

FrenchToast

If you can figure out a way. Ideally the lap portion of a three point belt should pass through both holes on a high-bolstered seat, like on a modern GT3 or 918. The 5/6 point also needs to pass through there. So you can swap all the time, or figure outt how to make them both work at once. You also need proper padding for the street and/or track on the bar.

Be aware that in some regions a rollbar and harness can be considered illegal for the street.

As for arms, Blaszak in Canada makes some for the 87+ large offset setup. They make both a tubular unit and one that is designed essentially as a lengthened early steel arm.

bill3

I drove my S2 to AX and DE's for years with stock 3 point harness using Recaro SRD seats and proper 6 point belts: lap belt mounted to stock outer seat belt mount; eye bolt for the inner (through floor or tunnel); sub belt too seat anchor bolts and shoulder belts to rear seat belt anchors. Required a simple harness bar. Only drawback: shoulder belts are quite long so not as safe as they could be in an accident.

I've replaced the S2 with a 968 and the same setup except for a Rennline harness/rollbar (mounts to rear seat and shoulder belt mounts so no holes and very strong).

I use the 3 point belt on the street all the time: no issues. For the record: I drive to all of my events including distant ones. Last trip (Nov) was to VIR: 500 miles.

this approach does mean having a proper seat the works on the street and track--and that can support the inner seat/shoulder belt receptacle.

As pointed out earlier, it is a very slippery slope so I would recommend driving the car as is and get some experience before going with seats, belts, etc.

For handling on your S2, after you do the bushings, check the size of the rear sway bar. It is probably too small, causing the car to understeer. Once the bars are balanced (bigger rear bar, like 20mm), the easiest next step to improve handling (though it can affect what class you are in) is to lower the car to European height. Easy in the back with the slide plates. In the front, it means different springs or finding M030 struts which come with stiffer springs. Either way, you've stiffened the front suspension further reducing understeer.

These are relatively easy steps that make a huge difference.

As to the front arms: unless they are already worn, I wouldn't be in a hurry to replace them until you start doing a lot of HPDE. It's expensive and the only ones I've seen break at the track had a lot of track miles.

Good luck!

nowata

replying to title:

if you enjoy the project and process and have the money, build.
if you want to get on the track with minimal investment and minimal input into why the car is what it is, buy.

racerbvd

Will be hard to build for the price of this, NASA prepared and maintained by Broadfoot plus gets 25MPG on the street.
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-race-car.html

g-50cab

Funny, but I bought a S2 to do exactly this. HPDE and be able to drive around. To me the S2 is ideal. It's got more torque with the 3.0. It has Turbo suspension and brakes standard. I am in the middle of a belt and water pump change - doing coil overs and clutch. Seats, belts and rollbar

I came from a stiffly sprung 911 - that was a little rough on the streets - I like to do things my way - so did not really consider someone elses project.

CVR_Rally

I bought a 87S to do this very thing too. It is becoming a DD and a DE car. I enjoy working on them and it allows me to build as I gain DE skills.
Chris

goatfarmerdave

IMHO Bill3 has hit the nail on the head.A little bit of suspension work but not tonnes.Sway bars and worn out bushings and thats it.Just have fun and learn to be better driver. I DE and autocross with my nice original COMFORTABLE seats and do just fine. It sounds like you drive the car quite often, if you do too stiff of a suspension you won't enjoy cruising around in it anymore,same goes for seats. I think the best cheap differences in performance change is sway bars and TIRES. As far as the S2,I am jealous.Awesome car!!! One the the best for DE and autocross.Have fun!!!!! Just one more thing,in autocross people rarely go fast enough.Run it to redline in each gear,get good brake pads to stop you hard and quick,make your turn and get on it again!! Your car is beautifully balanced and lots of torque,just do it safely of course.My 2 cents.Cheers.