How do you know if shocks/struts should be replaced?
#1
In the Sink
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Hello,
Lots of questions.
1. My car has a "M456" package, which is supposed to be
"Stabilizer front, 23mm, rear stabilizer, 14mm, sports shock absorbers, front and rear."
Anyone know if this means that the car came with the removable-insert style struts? What kind of struts/shocks were these? Can you tell that the strut is the "removable-insert" style by looking at it (i.e., before everything is taken apart)?
2. With the suspension as stiff as it is, does the "bounce the car" test really work when trying to determine if the shocks/struts are gone? If there is no leaking, how can you determine if it needs to be replaced?
3. Is there a lower cost alternative to this "strut removal tool set" seen on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2427926490
I guess I am worried about the special socket shown.
4. What is the part number for the bushing at the top of each strut that I'm supposed to be replacing.
5. Is there a cheaper source for the rear end of the front control arm bushings (477.407.181.A)? Paragon has the best price ($25 each), but for $50, they sell the entire arm with the bushings.
6. If I can confirm that my car has the removable strut inserts, I am tempted by the $170 for the set of 4 KYB strut-inserts/shocks from Zims. At this point, the general condition of the car requires that I spread the money around on other needy areas. Is this a "good enough" replacement if my only goal is comfortable street driving?
7. Are there any rear bushings I should be replacing when I do the rear shocks?
TWO NEW QUESTIONS:
8. If the front of the car is completely raised, is the front swaybar completely unloaded? (In other words, is it safe to unbolt/remove without doing anything else?)
9. If the rear of the car is completely raised, is the rear swaybar completely unloaded? (In other words, is it safe to unbolt/remove without doing anything else?)
Thanks everyone!
-Kevin
Lots of questions.
1. My car has a "M456" package, which is supposed to be
"Stabilizer front, 23mm, rear stabilizer, 14mm, sports shock absorbers, front and rear."
Anyone know if this means that the car came with the removable-insert style struts? What kind of struts/shocks were these? Can you tell that the strut is the "removable-insert" style by looking at it (i.e., before everything is taken apart)?
2. With the suspension as stiff as it is, does the "bounce the car" test really work when trying to determine if the shocks/struts are gone? If there is no leaking, how can you determine if it needs to be replaced?
3. Is there a lower cost alternative to this "strut removal tool set" seen on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2427926490
I guess I am worried about the special socket shown.
4. What is the part number for the bushing at the top of each strut that I'm supposed to be replacing.
5. Is there a cheaper source for the rear end of the front control arm bushings (477.407.181.A)? Paragon has the best price ($25 each), but for $50, they sell the entire arm with the bushings.
6. If I can confirm that my car has the removable strut inserts, I am tempted by the $170 for the set of 4 KYB strut-inserts/shocks from Zims. At this point, the general condition of the car requires that I spread the money around on other needy areas. Is this a "good enough" replacement if my only goal is comfortable street driving?
7. Are there any rear bushings I should be replacing when I do the rear shocks?
TWO NEW QUESTIONS:
8. If the front of the car is completely raised, is the front swaybar completely unloaded? (In other words, is it safe to unbolt/remove without doing anything else?)
9. If the rear of the car is completely raised, is the rear swaybar completely unloaded? (In other words, is it safe to unbolt/remove without doing anything else?)
Thanks everyone!
-Kevin
Last edited by 89magic98; 08-17-2003 at 07:00 PM.
#2
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I'll try and answer some of them.
3. Probably, but you definitely need those spring compressor things. Autozone might have them as part of their "Specialty Tool" program. They're free to rent, you just leave a deposit.
4. PP944.343.071.00, according to Paragon.
7. The rear shocks are really really easy to replace, but you might as well replace the rear swaybar bushings. Those should be simple too.
3. Probably, but you definitely need those spring compressor things. Autozone might have them as part of their "Specialty Tool" program. They're free to rent, you just leave a deposit.
4. PP944.343.071.00, according to Paragon.
7. The rear shocks are really really easy to replace, but you might as well replace the rear swaybar bushings. Those should be simple too.
#3
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You can use a towing chain to hold the springs. Wrap it around top to bottom with the wheel off but jacked up under the ball joint. Could also use a cable if you have the right clamps.
Personally I wouldn't but somethings have to be done in a pinch.
Personally I wouldn't but somethings have to be done in a pinch.
#4
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Use the right tools when working with springs.. if they slip off while you are removing the strut bearing, it can kill you, and still have force to go through the cieling of your garage. Rent or purchase some good spring compressors.
As far as the struts.. while driving, if the car feels like it floats a little too much, if it does not recover from large bumps quickly, or bounces off of bumps, they are probably worn.
For the sways, you can unbolt them with the car jacked up in the air, but should be bolted tight with the car resting on all fours. This is where there is no pre-load. The easiest way to do this is to have 4 ramps.
I had the KYB's on the rear of my car, they are a touch stiffer than OEM Boge, but not nearly as stiff as the Konis. Good shock for the price. If the GR2 Strut is availible, that is a nice option as well. (ran them on my Talon)
As far as the struts.. while driving, if the car feels like it floats a little too much, if it does not recover from large bumps quickly, or bounces off of bumps, they are probably worn.
For the sways, you can unbolt them with the car jacked up in the air, but should be bolted tight with the car resting on all fours. This is where there is no pre-load. The easiest way to do this is to have 4 ramps.
I had the KYB's on the rear of my car, they are a touch stiffer than OEM Boge, but not nearly as stiff as the Konis. Good shock for the price. If the GR2 Strut is availible, that is a nice option as well. (ran them on my Talon)
#6
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I intend to buy a good set of spring compressors.
I'm worried about getting hold the 22mm nut on the top of the strut assembly in place. The ebay listing shows a tool to do this, paragon suggests a 60 degree offset 22mm box wrench, but I haven't found one on-line for sale.
-Kevin
I'm worried about getting hold the 22mm nut on the top of the strut assembly in place. The ebay listing shows a tool to do this, paragon suggests a 60 degree offset 22mm box wrench, but I haven't found one on-line for sale.
-Kevin
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#8
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Originally posted by 89magic98
I intend to buy a good set of spring compressors.
I'm worried about getting hold the 22mm nut on the top of the strut assembly in place. The ebay listing shows a tool to do this, paragon suggests a 60 degree offset 22mm box wrench, but I haven't found one on-line for sale.
-Kevin
I intend to buy a good set of spring compressors.
I'm worried about getting hold the 22mm nut on the top of the strut assembly in place. The ebay listing shows a tool to do this, paragon suggests a 60 degree offset 22mm box wrench, but I haven't found one on-line for sale.
-Kevin
I got mine at Sears. Definetly a tool that you can't live without. While you are there, get a loooong 7mm allen wrench for the top of the strut as well.
Tifo
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#9
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I have a brand new strut tool (socket) still in the sealed bag I believe. I have Air powered tools now so I don't need it. I will sell it for cost. shipping free.
shoot me an email eric @ 968s. com
Eric
shoot me an email eric @ 968s. com
Eric