AndyK

Seems I need a new compressor...P/O said all it needed was a re-charge. What he meant was, the compressor leaks, and is shot!

If I buy a nice, rebuilt compressor, can I start fresh with R134, or should I stick with the expensive R12? I know R12 is colder, but if the rebuilt compressor will work OK with R134, maybe that's the smart/cheaper way to go? (mechanic will be doing the install, BTW)

I assume a $220 rebuilt compressor is the best way to go?

Andy

cpt_koolbeenz

Exactly my dilemma
Any input?

Ski

The main is the oils of R12 and R134a are not compatible. Of the $220 for rebuilt, check with Ian at www.944online, I think he has new ones(kit: compressor, drier, hose, fittings, brackets) for $389 - Sanden compressor, mine works good.

Jeremy Himsel

Guys,

Considering the climates you're in, I believe both of you can safely go with 134 and have it work well. My experience is that our cars have a small condenser and once ambient temps reach above 105 degrees, the 134 has a hard time keeping up and head pressures tend to get very high. Anything below 100 degrees and I doubt you'll even notice the difference between the two. Be sure to flush your system well, change the drier, and spend the extra $25 and change the expansion valve while you have the system open.

AndyK

944 online has the kit...$495 though! I figured for $220, I can get a rebuilt stock unit, thus saving $275!

If I get a stock compressor, fill it with R134, would I need a new dryer because of the new gas?

Jeremy Himsel

Andy,

Anytime you open a system you should replace the drier, especially after a compressor failure. Since you are changing to 134 you need to change it just to remove the mineral oil from the system

RPG951S

Jeremy,
Where is the expansion valve located? Easy to R&R?
What about the R134 vs R12 high/low fittings? Were do you get the R134 type fittings?

Thanks!

Randy_J

link http://www.944online.com/newparts.asp

$495 for the kit. Anyone try this yet? Tell us about the kit / experience to install, how you recharged after installation, etc.

Ski

Sorry about the mis-quote on the price, I guess things do go up in price over a year and half.

The kit was easy to install, I had to grind on one of the mounts just a bit to get the belt to fit just right. Installed the new hoses with a crimp hand tool(any shop can do this), new drier, charged up, and still running good today.

Randy_J

Thanks Ski! We always read about retrofit aircon, etc. just not too many what / how / results replies.

Jeremy Himsel

RPG,

The expansion valve is very easy to change. It's located unser the blower motor (under the hood), which is held in place by six screws. Just remove the blower assembly and the expansion valve is on the passenger side of the evaporator wrapped in black thermal tape.

The 134 retrofit fittings you should be able to buy at any local auto parts store.

AndyK

Would it make sense to :

Buy a re-conditioned compressor for $200
Buy a new Dryer for $39 from Vertex

Have both installed using R134?

At least the parts in this case would be $239 (vs. $495 for the kit), keeping the compressor stock.

Question is, can the stock compressor handle R134, or would a newer compressor work better all around?

Perry 951

Andy - The OEM compressors will work fine with R134a. You'll want to get all the oil out of the old compressor and fill with retrofit R134a oil, since there will be residues of the R12 oil in it. The retrofit oil is supposed to be compatible. My retrofit is using my stock, cleaned out compressor..

New Drier and O rings are a must, and it's not a bad idea to change the expansion valve. After that, a good flush is needed, and also pulling a vacuum (where I am at) to make sure moisture is out of the system.

Of course, the Sanden compressor was built to compress R134a and will work better, but it is not a "must have" option.

AndyK

I guess the better question would be, is it worth an additional $250 in parts to get the Sanden kit, instead of buying a reconditioned stock compressor and new drier?

Perry 951

I'll tell ya after I charge mine up!

There are a number of people here with the retrofit that have had no issues and cold air. On top of that, shops do retrofits all day long, most not chaging the oil, O rings, or expansion valve. They evacuate the system, flush, add ester oil, then charge and send it. Most times it works fine. Sometimes you'll get leaks, most likely from the aged O rings.