Wipers suddenly not working
#1
Wipers suddenly not working
When it rained last week, my wipers worked fine. Just now, I tried to use them to wipe some earlier rain off the windshield, but they weren't working. No position I could put the stalk in caused the wipers to do anything at all.
I checked the fuse, #24 according to the label on the inside of the fuse box lid. It was fine. (Confirmed visually and by putting it in the tester relay.)
Any idea what's caused this, or what else I should check? Any other symptoms to look for or testing I can do?
(The windshield washer system also does not work, but that's not new; that's been the case since I got the car a couple months ago, and other than confirming that the pump motor works, I've never gotten any further with diagnosing, testing, or solving that issue. I just haven't tried.)
I checked the fuse, #24 according to the label on the inside of the fuse box lid. It was fine. (Confirmed visually and by putting it in the tester relay.)
Any idea what's caused this, or what else I should check? Any other symptoms to look for or testing I can do?
(The windshield washer system also does not work, but that's not new; that's been the case since I got the car a couple months ago, and other than confirming that the pump motor works, I've never gotten any further with diagnosing, testing, or solving that issue. I just haven't tried.)
#2
Naturally I've been doing some other research into this, and came across a video on YouTube. It's in German but with English subtitles. This guy's problem was that the motor wasn't working, so he rebuilt it. He confirmed the motor wasn't working by testing for voltage on the #2 pin of the connector, and seeing 12v.
However, I do not get 12v at the connector. I get zero. I get 12v at the fuse, but not the connector going to the motor. (The key was turned to ON, and the stalk put all the way up.)
Firstly, did I do the right test, or do it the right way? Secondly, what does this mean now?
However, I do not get 12v at the connector. I get zero. I get 12v at the fuse, but not the connector going to the motor. (The key was turned to ON, and the stalk put all the way up.)
Firstly, did I do the right test, or do it the right way? Secondly, what does this mean now?
#3
Check for 12 volts at the motor, if there isn't voltage, maybe try turning the wipers on and then rotating the ignition switch through it's stops all the way to the end a couple of times. I have a 944 where the ignition switch has a dead spot and the wipers and some other accessories won't work.
If the switch doesn't affect it, then you have some voltage tracing to do. I believe there is a relay involved so locate it and try unplugging and plugging in back in as the next step.
If the switch doesn't affect it, then you have some voltage tracing to do. I believe there is a relay involved so locate it and try unplugging and plugging in back in as the next step.
#4
Check for 12 volts at the motor, if there isn't voltage, maybe try turning the wipers on and then rotating the ignition switch through it's stops all the way to the end a couple of times. I have a 944 where the ignition switch has a dead spot and the wipers and some other accessories won't work.
If the switch doesn't affect it, then you have some voltage tracing to do. I believe there is a relay involved so locate it and try unplugging and plugging in back in as the next step.
If the switch doesn't affect it, then you have some voltage tracing to do. I believe there is a relay involved so locate it and try unplugging and plugging in back in as the next step.
There is 12v at the fuse, though, and according to the video, this proves the relay is fine. If the relay comes before the fuse, then that's correct, but I admit I don't know for sure. However, I already have taken the relay out once to look at it.
I will try the ignition switch rotating you mentioned.
#5
I may have been testing for voltage to the motor incorrectly.
In the video, he doesn't quite discuss in much detail how he's checking for voltage. At least not in details that I understood. He said he was testing on pin 2 of the connector, but he also said something about connection 53. I didn't understand what that meant.
I was checking for voltage by connecting the ground probe of the multimeter to a chassis ground, and the other probe to pin 2. That's how he tested for voltage to the fuse socket.
But now in another video (unrelated topic) I see that the relays have numbers for each of their connectors...so I pulled up an image of the wiper relay...and sure enough, one of the blades on the relay is labeled 53. Actually there's a 53S and 53M.
So now I wonder if maybe I was supposed to connect the multimeter to pin 2 of the connector that goes to the motor, and the socket on the relay panel that corresponds to where one of the blades labeled 53 (which one, M or S?) would be inserted.
Perhaps I'll try this tomorrow...if I'm about to do something stupid, please let me know now...
In the video, he doesn't quite discuss in much detail how he's checking for voltage. At least not in details that I understood. He said he was testing on pin 2 of the connector, but he also said something about connection 53. I didn't understand what that meant.
I was checking for voltage by connecting the ground probe of the multimeter to a chassis ground, and the other probe to pin 2. That's how he tested for voltage to the fuse socket.
But now in another video (unrelated topic) I see that the relays have numbers for each of their connectors...so I pulled up an image of the wiper relay...and sure enough, one of the blades on the relay is labeled 53. Actually there's a 53S and 53M.
So now I wonder if maybe I was supposed to connect the multimeter to pin 2 of the connector that goes to the motor, and the socket on the relay panel that corresponds to where one of the blades labeled 53 (which one, M or S?) would be inserted.
Perhaps I'll try this tomorrow...if I'm about to do something stupid, please let me know now...
#7
I would rebuild the motor. My buddy and I took mine apart when the wipers stopped working and it was all dirty and seized. Do what he does in the video. It's not hard to take apart. If the motor doesn't turn by hand that's the issue. I would do it first because as I said it's easy to diagnose and fix and a common issue.
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#8
I'm going to get a replacement stalk assembly, since I'm having trouble confirming (without removing it) that it's the motor. However, I'll probably also rebuild the motor anyway, even if replacing the stalk cluster fixes the problem, since it seems like sooner or later it's probably going to need to be rebuilt anyway. Besides, another chance to tinker and feel like I've accomplished something...
Two questions about rebuilding the motor...in the video, he mentions something about a paper gasket, which I believe he replaces with tape. What's that gasket for, is it important? Also: what exact kind of sealant should I use, where he's using some kind of black goo from a caulk gun...what can I use for that? I think he just says it's "body sealant" but I'm wondering what's the best stuff to use there.
Two questions about rebuilding the motor...in the video, he mentions something about a paper gasket, which I believe he replaces with tape. What's that gasket for, is it important? Also: what exact kind of sealant should I use, where he's using some kind of black goo from a caulk gun...what can I use for that? I think he just says it's "body sealant" but I'm wondering what's the best stuff to use there.
#10
The cowl will take some time, but I'm more worried about getting the blower fan cage out of the way, as shown in the video.
I'll probably replace the cowl if I do this. Mine's pretty cracked up already, and I doubt it will survive being removed. So I probably won't try to be too delicate when removing it, I'll more likely just rip it off. I know I'll still have to unglue the back edge, though. Also, the gasket that seals the top of the firewall to the hood is really chewed up, too, and since that holds down the front edge of the cowl, I'll probably replace that, too.
I'll probably replace the cowl if I do this. Mine's pretty cracked up already, and I doubt it will survive being removed. So I probably won't try to be too delicate when removing it, I'll more likely just rip it off. I know I'll still have to unglue the back edge, though. Also, the gasket that seals the top of the firewall to the hood is really chewed up, too, and since that holds down the front edge of the cowl, I'll probably replace that, too.
#11
I used that video this summer for my '87 Turbo..I must have watched it 10 times. A mirror and strong flashlight to check out the location of the back screws of the cage combined with a cheap flex shaft screwdriver made that easy. The whole wiper assembly was $99 (used but real clean) from Lart. It sure took me A LOT longer than 2 minutes to swap out the assemblies though! It was like a puzzle to me. My cowl cracked in a few spots when I removed it and 3 months later would make a great ad for black Gorilla tape!