firemn131

Howdy.
Posting everywhere to find a fix!
the pivot arm has a washer,o-ring, c-clip stack up that according to the pet shows this stack up order From the pivot stud base out;

O-ring
O-ring
washer
pivot assembly
washer
C-Clip.

This stack up will not allow installation of the final washer and C-clip.

Has anyone done an alternate stack up with good results?

My car is a MY 92.
the Pet is from 95

thnx

John

MB968

I also have a '92. I also ran into this same issue. It was clear that the parts diagram wasn't correct for my build. It would have taken a longer pivot arm bolt/stud. As I recall, I had room for washers, but no o-rings. I'm 99.9% certain that I didn't put it together with any o-rings. I did use a good copper high temp anti-seize such as Loctite CA-5 in the joint. This is an area that shouldn't see fluids that could flush out the anti-seize. And since our cars benefit from timing belt changes every few years, I feel fairly secure that all will be OK. I didn't want to create a lot of friction in the joint by trying to squeeze o-rings in the stackup as to me this would be more detrimental.

You might want to check earlier build parts list, such as the S2 to see if they used different parts.

firemn131

Thats were I was leaning. Thnx for the affirmation..

I cant find any MY92 diagrams.

I will try the 944 models.

firemn131

MB968

The undercut in the middle is common in designs to accomplish a variety of functions. For this stud, it could have been to insure the bearing rides at the two extremities of the stud. But, I think more likely for this design it is for lube to insure there was plenty of lube to last between belt changes. With the improvements in lube over the past 20 years, probably not as important.

Make sure the stud is smooth (only to remove burrs or smooth scratches, but don't take any off the diameter) and clean before reinstall with a sufficient lube. And, make sure the pivot arm rotates easily once assembled. This is required to insure the tensioner can respond quickly to changes in load.

While you are in there, I would make sure the stud is properly torqued. Personally, I'd remove it, clean, loctite, re-install/re-torque.

firemn131

Update.
They changed the design in later models to include recesses for the orings. This model year does not incorporate orings.
Will remove and retorque.
Thnx, sounds like a plan.

FRporscheman

Where did you learn that about the early/late difference?

I have a 93 and 95 but never paid attention. I think the 95 has orings, don't remember on the 93.

MB968

Are the grooves for the o-rings on newer models in the stud? If so, and at reasonable cost, I might consider an update at my next belt change just for a little added protection against debris getting into this area.

firemn131

I ran a part number search from the MY95 PET. tracked it to a vendor that stated part number was supercede. I dont know what year they changed over.
Part number 944 105 170 04,

From Auto Atlanta....This part number has changed to 94410517005
Please click here to view the new part.

Julian Allen

Here is the most definitive information I could find, in the '93 Tech Info Bulletin, describing how the o-ring grooves were placed to limit dirt on the pivot pin. Looks like an early change in the engine.

firemn131

Awesome..thnx

FRporscheman

Fantastic information, thanks for sharing!

OakRZB

Any specific torque spec for the support pin?


TIA !
___________________
'94 968 - Aventurine Green
'86 944 NA - Alpine White, (parted out & gone)
'86 951 - Alpine White (sold)

Julian Allen

The workshop manual:
"Use Loctite 270 to bond into crankshaft (I'm sure they mean into the "console"). Pack lubricating groove with Optitemp PU 035 grease, Part No. 000 043 110 00. Tightening torque 45 Nm (33 ftlb)."
Also says to heat shaft bolt area with hot air gun for removal, presumably to weaken previously used Loctite.

OakRZB

Thanks Julian !

I have the 944 manual set and I would assume it wouldn't include 968-specific info. Maybe I need to crack those binders open to see if they're still useful (for my 968...)

Loctite 270 (green) doesn't look readily available.
Specs: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...Bu_YFA&cad=rja

However Loctite 263 (red) has similar specs/usage and seems to be easier to get.
Specs: https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/382795AAF2B4355B8525760E004BEA0A/$File/263%20NEW09-EN.pdf