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Old 09-20-2014, 04:54 PM
  #46  
Dash01
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Originally Posted by sausagehacker
Transmission removal is easy, I dropped one in my apartment parking lot without much difficulty. The only "special" tools you'll need are a 8mm allen key socket (in case your allen key isn't getting you the torque you need) and a triple-square set for the CV bolts. Link

....It's possible to drop everything behind the motor in one nice big piece, although the torque tube is really crappy to deal with. Much easier to just move the motor and trans and leave the torque tube and rear suspension in place.

When we did my 951 clutch, just left the rear wheels on, dropped the subframe, etc. and rolled the whole shebang out of the way. The clutch job was less than 10 hours, i.e., less than half the time estimated in the shop manual.

While you have the rear subframe and wheel assy. out of the way, it's a good time to clean it, swap CV joints side to side, check on transaxle leaks and cooler, change transaxle fluid, etc.
Old 09-22-2014, 03:53 AM
  #47  
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I wanted to do that, just drop everything in one piece but I am sure it would overwhelm my jack, plus working on gravel, near a sinkhole....
Sorry no new pics. I really got stuck in. I lost about 2 hours sorting out the clutch hydraulics. It bleed easily enough but when I went to adjust at the pedal the rod came out of the pedal and I guess I kept on turning the rod and damaged to receiver end. I had to almost remove the clutch pedal again, tap the treads on the receiver block and reinstall. Thank fully the clutch now works smoothly.
Then removed the broken nut in the exhaust, align the hangers and install the exhaust system.
Re-attached the unnecessarily detached engine wiring harness to the oil level and pressure switch, fuel hoses, torque the half shafts, rear suspension, and front suspension. But I forgot to reattach the steering u-joint. So I had to lower the front cross member again last night at 8pm. My poor suffering neighbor. Thankfully the guy I am renting the parking spot from is cool with what I am doing. Most would freak out I think.
I attached a battery and tried to turn it over. I get power and I hear a relay click but the starter isn`t turning. Also I don`t hear the fuel pump. I have to trace the 3 wires I cut at the fuse box when I swapped the front harness. Plus I didn`t disconnect the wires from the automatic. I think its a neutral safety issue. I really don`t want to have to swap the entire fuse box and wiring harness. I also noticed there are no wires for the reverse light switch on the transmission.
This week agenda, wiring harness. Getting all the electronics to work.
Gonna get the girlfriend on to sewing some new seat covers.
So far I spent $1000 for the car, $100 for a clutch set, $100 on tires and $250 on parking.
Next month, timing belt, water pump, coolant flush etc...$300

I`ll try my hand at painting the fenders myself, see how they look. If they are no good then I`ll have to spend on a proper paint job.
Old 09-22-2014, 03:59 AM
  #48  
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1) Cover the sinkhole when working on the car.
2) Learn to sew for yourself so when the gf finds my pics online you aren't SOL.
3) $100 tires are either incredibly priced or incredibly sketchy.
4) Painting - it's all in the wrist
Old 09-22-2014, 04:29 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by rufrob
So far I spent $1000 for the car, $100 for a clutch set, $100 on tires and $250 on parking.
.
$250 to park? Need to hear more about this.
Old 09-22-2014, 09:46 PM
  #50  
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I pay $80/month for parking. I filled in the sink hole.
I did sew in new leather seat center sections many moons ago, by hand, perforating and sewing. Not fun. The GF has a sewing machine!!
Old 09-24-2014, 07:56 AM
  #51  
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Bypasses the starter inhibitor switch. Now it cranks with the key. Next I need to check for power to the computer and coil. Any hints?
Old 09-29-2014, 01:14 AM
  #52  
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https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...96114623474017
Got a lot done this weekend. I wired up the engine. Got power at coil, power at fuel pump when cranking, power everywhere but no start. I looked closer at the main ecu and saw some dirt and scratch marks on it. Opened the ECU to find corrosion. It was under water. I swapped it with my friends mint 91-S2, no start. So I ordered a used 1 from the UK.
I am confused with the wiring harness. On the S2 harness there is a 9 pin plug missing on 2.7 harness. Anyone knows what it for? Guess Ill find out when then ECU arrives if it works without it.
I am having a devil of a time attaching the steering U-joint to the rack spline. Any ideas? It only goes down half way.
Old 10-05-2014, 11:16 PM
  #53  
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Couldn`t touch the car this weekend due to house hunting and typhoon. I cant seem to find the 14pin receiver connector in the right footwell for the 2.7 auto. Does anyone know where or if it is?
Old 10-06-2014, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by rufrob
Couldn`t touch the car this weekend due to house hunting and typhoon. I cant seem to find the 14pin receiver connector in the right footwell for the 2.7 auto. Does anyone know where or if it is?
How close did the typhoon get? Did you area get through it ok?
Old 10-06-2014, 09:43 PM
  #55  
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Just a bit of rain and wind. Car cover blew off. Today the used ECU arrived. All fingers crossed it starts.
Old 10-07-2014, 10:35 AM
  #56  
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Ok. Got the used ECU. Still no start. And no power at the 14pin connector inside the car.
I have power at coil, igniter, MAF sensor, couldnt check the injectors.
Then I bypassed the alarm. Nothing. I bypass the dme relay and I get power at the 14 pin inside the car. But still no start.
I tested my friends car and found the car will start and run find with that 14 pin connector disconnected. Only the tach dont work and the oil light comes on.

Any hints?
Old 10-08-2014, 02:17 AM
  #57  
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https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...96114623474017
I got some new photos. I decided to try to pull the wiring harness. Dont want to waste time trying to get it running.
Old 10-08-2014, 03:44 AM
  #58  
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After looking at the data there are only 2 useful wires in the harness to make the tach work and turn the oil light off. I would rather not pull the whole front wiring loom. Is there an adapter or some modification I can do solve this issue?
Old 10-08-2014, 03:54 AM
  #59  
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I picked up the 86-951 yesterday. I forgot how well it drove.Very firm suspension, throaty exhaust and good smooth boost above 3000rpm. Pity the interior lets it down. It will get a new black cloth interior this weekend including great a great dash board.
Old 10-08-2014, 09:08 PM
  #60  
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I could really use that 951 bumper and front end!


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