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What are your goals listed in order of importance to you?
I'm leaning toward LS Engine bc they are plentiful and cheaper to maintain, I wouldn't be taking it to the track or drag racing with it but definitely want power also wouldn't be my daily driver but will drive it alot.
You need to decide how you're going to be driving the car and what your power goals are. Then you decide what cam you want. You're going to spend a lot of money to get all the parts to swap the motor in...
For base LS information I recommend you to hit up the LS wiki. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LS_bas...l-block_engine
IMHO you should look for an Alum block LS to keep the weight down and same or lower than stock. That said the Alum block by nature are usually more expensive. For me I love driving twisty roads and jumped at doing the LS conversion with a 944 specifically because of it's 50/50 balance and famed handling.
There are some alum blocks in trucks, and most if not all car blocks are alum. Displacements range from 5.3-6.2L The 5.7l+ tend to be more expensive. Truck engines are taller and to my limited knowledge will not fit under a stock 944 hood. The accy's also are an issue I believe, so you are best looking for the engine out of an "f-body" as mentioned.
That said, unless you are tracking the car or into driving twisty roads and really pushing the car in corners, then an iron block may be just fine. MOST cars (meaning not 994) are nose heavy and many of them handle extremely well, so being nose heavy does not mean the car will not handle, it just may not handle as well as 944 usually do?
I ended up buying a motor from a Trailblazer, it is a 5.3L Alum truck motor, but was <1/2 the price of a car motor here. I am early on in the process and have not pulled the stock motor out of the car yet to start fitting the LS.
You need to decide how you're going to be driving the car and what your power goals are. Then you decide what cam you want. You're going to spend a lot of money to get all the parts to swap the motor in...
it wont be daily drivin but it's a 944 N/A so dont want nothing crazy like 450+ Hp I suppose u can say it will be drag racing at the most its my project car jus a toy I can play with so I'm looking for the right match that wont break suspension with to much power bc the motor it self would put down 300 -350 HP so minor upgrades regarding performance will be my goal I jus want it to drive and have some power to it... if that makes sense
For base LS information I recommend you to hit up the LS wiki. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LS_bas...l-block_engine
IMHO you should look for an Alum block LS to keep the weight down and same or lower than stock. That said the Alum block by nature are usually more expensive. For me I love driving twisty roads and jumped at doing the LS conversion with a 944 specifically because of it's 50/50 balance and famed handling.
There are some alum blocks in trucks, and most if not all car blocks are alum. Displacements range from 5.3-6.2L The 5.7l+ tend to be more expensive. Truck engines are taller and to my limited knowledge will not fit under a stock 944 hood. The accy's also are an issue I believe, so you are best looking for the engine out of an "f-body" as mentioned.
That said, unless you are tracking the car or into driving twisty roads and really pushing the car in corners, then an iron block may be just fine. MOST cars (meaning not 994) are nose heavy and many of them handle extremely well, so being nose heavy does not mean the car will not handle, it just may not handle as well as 944 usually do?
I ended up buying a motor from a Trailblazer, it is a 5.3L Alum truck motor, but was <1/2 the price of a car motor here. I am early on in the process and have not pulled the stock motor out of the car yet to start fitting the LS.
so engine from the blazer , u got a LS2? I Do want a aluminum block LS but this guy is selling a ls1 for 400 so I wanted to see what the deal was turns out its iron block so I was tryna see if it is worth it but as far as i can tell everyone says it will just mess up the 5050 balance on the 944
For base LS information I recommend you to hit up the LS wiki. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LS_bas...l-block_engine
IMHO you should look for an Alum block LS to keep the weight down and same or lower than stock. That said the Alum block by nature are usually more expensive. For me I love driving twisty roads and jumped at doing the LS conversion with a 944 specifically because of it's 50/50 balance and famed handling.
There are some alum blocks in trucks, and most if not all car blocks are alum. Displacements range from 5.3-6.2L The 5.7l+ tend to be more expensive. Truck engines are taller and to my limited knowledge will not fit under a stock 944 hood. The accy's also are an issue I believe, so you are best looking for the engine out of an "f-body" as mentioned.
That said, unless you are tracking the car or into driving twisty roads and really pushing the car in corners, then an iron block may be just fine. MOST cars (meaning not 994) are nose heavy and many of them handle extremely well, so being nose heavy does not mean the car will not handle, it just may not handle as well as 944 usually do?
I ended up buying a motor from a Trailblazer, it is a 5.3L Alum truck motor, but was <1/2 the price of a car motor here. I am early on in the process and have not pulled the stock motor out of the car yet to start fitting the LS.
check it out bro a 5.3 out a 08 impala ss think I found my aluminum block?
so engine from the blazer , u got a LS2? I Do want a aluminum block LS but this guy is selling a ls1 for 400 so I wanted to see what the deal was turns out its iron block so I was tryna see if it is worth it but as far as i can tell everyone says it will just mess up the 5050 balance on the 944
An actual LS1 for 400 is a steal!! Is it long block, complete motor? Grab it as long as it is running. "LS1" is a car only designation and means it is a 5.7L Alum block. The term "LS" is used to describe the family of engines based on their design. It can be confusing, I know it was for me, I have a limited understanding of it now. I say this because I have seen people call any LS motor an "LS1" by mistake, so make sure you are getting an alum block 5.7L. The displacement should be e,bossed on the rear of the block on the right side.
LS1, LS6 are car engine, cable throttle control. LS2, LS3 are Electronically controlled throttle(you would have to install an electronic gas pedal in your car). There are also differences in head porting. LS1 and I think LS6 are Cathedral port heads, then some (LS3?) Are rectangular ported.
Mine is actually an "LM4" Which is a "P" Vin code for the trailblazer and a few other trucks in 2003-2004. There is a great breakdown of the engine/VIN code at the bottom of the page I linked. I copied/pasted that table to my projecg spreadsheet so I could pull it up easy when looking for an engine.
An actual LS1 for 400 is a steal!! Is it long block, complete motor? Grab it as long as it is running. "LS1" is a car only designation and means it is a 5.7L Alum block. The term "LS" is used to describe the family of engines based on their design. It can be confusing, I know it was for me, I have a limited understanding of it now. I say this because I have seen people call any LS motor an "LS1" by mistake, so make sure you are getting an alum block 5.7L. The displacement should be e,bossed on the rear of the block on the right side.
LS1, LS6 are car engine, cable throttle control. LS2, LS3 are Electronically controlled throttle(you would have to install an electronic gas pedal in your car). There are also differences in head porting. LS1 and I think LS6 are Cathedral port heads, then some (LS3?) Are rectangular ported.
Mine is actually an "LM4" Which is a "P" Vin code for the trailblazer and a few other trucks in 2003-2004. There is a great breakdown of the engine/VIN code at the bottom of the page I linked. I copied/pasted that table to my projecg spreadsheet so I could pull it up easy when looking for an engine.
Hes says its ls1, its iron block and he got it out a 04 tahoe so it isn't the Corvette ls1 aluminum block and its complete ready to go he said he had it doing burn outs and donuts in his monte carlo
It's not a true LS1 unless it is alum block and is a 5.7L, technically speaking. LS1 was only in Corvette, Transam and Camaro's from 1997-2004, no other vehicles.
Tahoe is an LS series motor, but not an "LS1", like I said lot of people do not know the distinction, they think LS and LS1 are he same thing. I have a 2003 suburban with an LS in it, it is a 5.3L iron block, aluminum heads, probably same engine he has given the year of the tahoe. Actually quick search it looks like the displacement numbers might be on the front if the engine under the accessory brackets.
It's not a true LS1 unless it is alum block and is a 5.7L, technically speaking. LS1 was only in Corvette, Transam and Camaro's from 1997-2004, no other vehicles.
Tahoe is an LS series motor, but not an "LS1", like I said lot of people do not know the distinction, they think LS and LS1 are he same thing. I have a 2003 suburban with an LS in it, it is a 5.3L iron block, aluminum heads, probably same engine he has given the year of the tahoe. Actually quick search it looks like the displacement numbers might be on the front if the engine under the accessory brackets.
yeah I rather pass and get a aluminum block instead they are everywhere but definitely not 400 dollars.
Wow, This thread has been some interesting and entertaining information!
I am now looking into the LS Conversion for my 91 944 S2 Race car. I love driving it and the car is amazing however when I am approaching 135 on the back straight at the Glen and being closed on by Cup Cars and GT3's at 165 it is not fun.
I found a guy who has a 1987 924 and has said the below: I have just about everything. I do have the harness. You can leave brakes manual or what guys have been doing is using a hydroboost out of a ford for power brakes Needs radiator installed and front end put back together. Bumper, headlights. Engine trans clutch and torque tube all set to go
I was wondering if buying this car from him and transferring the stuff over to my 944 is a good start! He is asking 2500 for the whole everything and the car!
It depends. What parts does he have? Who made them? How old are they? What motor does he have? You do NOT want manual brakes and the Ford hydroboost setup sucks on the track unless you get the TPC adapter so you can run the 944 master cylinder. Otherwise the rear brake bias is horribly wrong.
Depending on what you're getting, $2500 could be a good price but realize that's the tip of the iceberg cost wise...
03-03-2019, 10:31 PM
