Gouged oil separator: repair or replace (951)
05-28-2014, 03:25 PM
#1
Gouged oil separator: repair or replace (951)
Oil separator somehow got gouged and oil's leaking out of it. I ordered the part and was reading up on replacing it but have read nothing but horror stories on not being able to get a bottom bolt off etc. and no solutions so I have to ask if there's a way to patch up the existing one or bite the bullet and pay a shop to replace it?
06-16-2014, 07:06 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
My Porsche mechanic has a simple method for replacing the AOS. He did this for my car, when I had the same problem. He breaks off the AOS around the bottom mounting bolt, which gives him room to remove the lower bolt. He then re-installs the new AOS with a shorter lower bolt. This eliminates having to remove other parts to get access. It also, facilitates removing the AOS in the future, since the lower bolt is now short enough to remove without hitting the heat shield. He did the AOS swap in 45 mins for my car using this technique.
06-17-2014, 12:18 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
My mechanic did the AOS swap without removing the intake or turbo. He first removed the top two bolts and then used a long/massive screw driver to snap the AOS.
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02-12-2015, 07:17 PM
#9
Was getting ready to do this and noticed on the AOS I bought that the upper hose port points out toward the back instead of out the side like the old one has.
I figured it shouldn't matter until I realized how I have no space behind the new AOS where the hose port is.
I assume there's a couple different configurations for the 944 and I got the wrong one...?
I figured it shouldn't matter until I realized how I have no space behind the new AOS where the hose port is.
I assume there's a couple different configurations for the 944 and I got the wrong one...?
02-13-2015, 10:43 PM
#11
I did my aos seals recently the old fashioned way - remove the turbo and everything above it. If you haven't refreshed under there, plenty of vacuum and water hoses to do. Can also clean engine grounds (back of block) and put a new downpipe in if you haven't. It's not a bad job, just take pictures, label your parts, and don't take short cuts (they end up being long cuts).
05-25-2016, 04:54 PM
#15
Upgraded the stock turbo to a Vitesse (Garret) turbo.
The guy who did the turbo upgrade replaced the stock yellow oil cap with an oil filler "breather" encircled in white in the attached pic.
The RPMs would "dip" and the car would stall out. This happened most often either at idle or when braking when the RPMs dropped fast.
Vacuum tested by introducing fog in the intake, so much fog around the AOS/breather area I couldn't tell where it was coming from.
The guy at the Indy shop told me to put the stock yellow cap back on since the breather was the main (and possibly only) source of the vacuum leak.
The guy who installed the breather in the first place told me the stock yellow cap would keep too much pressure in the engine and could cause damage.
The guy at the Indy shop said I didn't need the breather, it was only contributing to vacuum leak(s).
Anyone have experiences with a breather and is it necessary?
The guy who did the turbo upgrade replaced the stock yellow oil cap with an oil filler "breather" encircled in white in the attached pic.
The RPMs would "dip" and the car would stall out. This happened most often either at idle or when braking when the RPMs dropped fast.
Vacuum tested by introducing fog in the intake, so much fog around the AOS/breather area I couldn't tell where it was coming from.
The guy at the Indy shop told me to put the stock yellow cap back on since the breather was the main (and possibly only) source of the vacuum leak.
The guy who installed the breather in the first place told me the stock yellow cap would keep too much pressure in the engine and could cause damage.
The guy at the Indy shop said I didn't need the breather, it was only contributing to vacuum leak(s).
Anyone have experiences with a breather and is it necessary?