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Why Megasquirt is the greatest thing I've ever done to my car

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Old 04-30-2014, 11:24 PM
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DannoXYZ
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Last edited by DannoXYZ; 04-30-2014 at 11:25 PM. Reason: wrong thread
Old 05-01-2014, 07:36 PM
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Dougs951S
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LS1 coils are wired up! I think im going to have to buy a new set of plug wires though, they are not deep enough to get down into the 944 head. Everything is coming along..
Old 05-02-2014, 12:07 AM
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I looked into MS when i started a vw t4 turbo project last year. At the time it seemed like to much and I went with a draw thru set up on a holley 4412. Msd 6btm box for retard, but in hindsight this would of been the route to go. Congratulations on your new set up! Its good to see you made it happen and found used parts to modify and bring it all together. Being resourceful is key! I finally tracked down a good used block and spent a stupid amount of money on everything needed to rebuild it. I can't think of anything more rewarding then diy mod/build! Congrats!
Old 05-02-2014, 02:39 AM
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Thanks for the kind words! My goal is a streetable, true 400 rwhp/rwtq stock bottom end 2.5 liter. I think I'm getting close. I've made a few pulls at 22 psi on ethanol with fairly conservative ignition and the car just spins my 10" supersports like they are donuts all through 1st, 2nd, and part of 3rd. And I have LSD! It wouldnt surprise me if I was 375+ at the wheels already. I have a new wastegate coming in tomorrow and now with a hotter ignition, a bit more boost, and some dyno time to dial in the ignition map and I'm very certain I'll hit my goal. I was discussing this earlier with another 951 owner here on rennlist so its worth mentioning here that I really believe my intercooler setup is key to me being able to push a k27/8 so far. I know I'm pretty much maxing it out on a 2.5 liter but without my intercooler, at the boost levels I'm running It'd just be blowing hot air. Instead, even under extremely high loads I'm seeing intake temps >100 degrees which makes me feel comfortable turning the pressure up, even if the turbo is out of its effeciency zone (because it definitely is) I have some interesting delta temperature graphs showing pre intercooler vs post intercooler temps at various boost pressures. I'll be posting up loooots of data logs once I sift through the mound of information I have. My headfirst dive into surgically reconstructing the intake tract has really revealed to me how much loss is present in the stock setup. I realize of course that it was done with consideration to space constraints that I dont have to deal with. My engine bare is very bare of things that are not essential. I have no AC, no power steering, no cruise control, no headlight mechanism, no AFM or air box, my blow off valve is mounted very low, ect. All this space was cleared out so I could fit the biggest honkin' intercooler and piping I could possibly cram into the car, and it still required some "gentle manipulation" of the car's sheet metal.
Old 05-02-2014, 10:25 AM
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What are the specs on the k27-8? I know i should probably search lol. Im asking because my turbo is not stock. The i.d plate has been removedand they wrote on it with a marker. I can only read the k27 part and the last number is faded too much. It also says "dr" under it. Hybrid?
Im guessing that with all the acc. deletes your running a custom IC. Before i went big turbo on my DD i installed a twin IC set up and it made a massive difference. Even on the stock turbo. Pulled like it was 10 degrees out on a 90 degree day. So I can only imagine how your 951 feels. Would a water/meth injection get you at the 400rwhp mark? I know it lowers the intake air around 20 degrees, but the actual cylinders temps go down over 200.
Old 05-03-2014, 04:38 AM
  #21  
Dougs951S
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A better exhaust would get me to 400 rwhp. my downpipe is a big restriction at the moment.


by the way, I will be posting a lot of "for the record" info here for anyone's future reference.

if anyone ever gets a hold of a bank of 4 GM ls coil packs, the 7 pin harness pinout is as follows:

plain black: 12v ground to engine block all coils
grey w/white stripe: 5v logic ground for all coils
purple w/white stripe: 5 volt logic signal for coil 1
blue w/white stripe: 5 volt logic signal for coil 2
green w/white stripe: 5 volt logic signal coil 3
red w/white stripe: 5 volt logic signal could 4
solid pink: high power 12v supply for all coils

my k27/8 was built by majestic turbo in waco tx, its a stock k27/7200 compressor with a ported factory #8 housing and modded #8 turbine.

Last edited by Dougs951S; 05-04-2014 at 10:25 PM.
Old 05-03-2014, 06:42 AM
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:37 PM
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Im also working on EFIing my 931 and who knows maybe the 951 if i ever get to it.

For the 931 already have the haybusa TB's Id like to see how you get along with making them work. I read some guys had issues for some reason.
Old 05-03-2014, 11:56 PM
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The yamaha R1 throttle work better I've heard since they easily separate from the linkage so you can space them however you want. However, the R1 butterflies are smaller than the stock inlet valves so I'd like to try using the 1300c throttles if possible. The intake I have envisioned will have very short runners tuned for peak power @~7k rpm, with integrated bellmouths. I have an HX35 with a twin scroll #12 hotside on my desk that I know is capable of flowing enough air for 450 rwhp, I'm just not sure how far I'm willing to push the stock bottom end.
Old 05-04-2014, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Dougs951S
http://www.goingsuperfast.com/Trigger-wheels.html

I used the 6" pulley, can get some pics up tonight but the car is currently down, and will live again some time next week distributorless and running LS6 COP's in wasted spark. Dizzy's are so 80's, trying to get away from all that.
How did you mount the sensor?
Old 05-04-2014, 10:04 PM
  #26  
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Car is up and running like a German clock on the LS2 coils in wasted spark. The first things I noticed were smoother idle and slightly better midrange tq. Tomorrow I will be turning up the boost some more and seeing how far I can push this before I start getting knock. Currently 22 psi and zero knock detected by the stock knock sensor. Not sure the compressor really has any more left in it to be honest though. Harry, I will post up some pictures of my sensor bracket tomorrow. It is a ford sensor off a 1.8 liter EDIS escort. Happened to be the exact right size to fit my wheel, and made the bracket design very simple.


I'm working on designing a bolt on solution for a cam sync for our motors. To my knowledge, nobody produces them and it would make converting these cars to fully sequential fuel/spark a no brainer. That is where I am heading next. Any interest?

Last edited by Dougs951S; 05-04-2014 at 10:40 PM.
Old 06-08-2014, 05:00 PM
  #27  
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Just wanted to update, I have now covered over 2000 miles since squirting the car and I have nearly 1000 miles with the corvette Coil on plug setup. The car is now on 23 psi on e85 and definitely over 400 rwhp. My 93 octane tune is 18 psi and around 345 rwhp. On pump gas keeping out of boost, I datalogged 29 mpg on the highway in a 100 mile round trip, lean burn is set up and the ecu targets 16:1 afr when cruising, 12:1 under power. The car is fantastic. My next goal is to make 500 true crank horse, I think its doable with a larger compressor.

Last edited by Dougs951S; 06-08-2014 at 05:23 PM.
Old 06-08-2014, 05:32 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 67King
How did you mount the sensor?
This is a little off topic, but I have to give Doug a little crap... you should have seen the sensor mount he had on there around January, it was janky as hell! There were literally 20+ washers (not even all the same size) used as spacers, and it was suspended using what looked like the stock PS or AC adjustable support struts. Redneck engineering at it's finest!

Sorry Doug, couldn't resist
Old 06-08-2014, 06:01 PM
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Hey! Well, there is nothing I can say in my own defense, but that bracket was never driven on, it was just used to "proof" the sensor pickup. The bracket I have on there now is solid 3/16" steel, bolted to the block and adjustable for sensor air gap. Very clean, simple and solid. The only hardware on it besides where it bolts to the block is the bolt, nut and washer on the slotted adjustment mechanism. Ill post pictures when I get home.
Old 07-21-2014, 03:55 AM
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Just another update for anyone going this route, I've had some noise coupling issues on the 5 volt signal reference line that was injecting some noise into my powered sensors (TPS and MAP). I was seeing fluctuations of sometimes +- 1 volt. This was causing occasional glitches and minor tuning issues, I added a 470 uF 25v capacitor between the 5 volt source and the signal ground line, which stiffened the line at 4.89 volts and absorbed noise. Its better, I may still try a 1000 uF cap and see if its better yet. The MS project has taken a backseat at this moment to my current 16v conversion. It will return full force once that is finished, I will be using the factory 16v hall sensor to go to full sequential fuel and ignition. After that will be the Big Turbo project. Stay tuned folks.


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