Re-torque ARP head studs after heat cycle, possible shortcut?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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Just a thought, what if, after torquing the head, we heat the engine using hot water and let it cool. Will that help relieve the tensions and let us re-torque without going through the tedious business of mounting the cam and the belts just to start up the car and then remove them again?
I now it won't be the same as actually running the engine with the pressure and movement involved, but could it work?
I now it won't be the same as actually running the engine with the pressure and movement involved, but could it work?
#4
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I think getting sufficient boiling water in there and cycling it through while keeping it at temp would be far more work than just pulling the cam tower and checking the torque...
#5
Intermediate
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Re-torque is not just because of the heat stress, it is also the cylinder pressure stresses. Stresses induced in assembly can be redistributed as things shake out after a few stress cycles, so re-torquing is called out for to check these critical fasteners and ensure they are still in the zone.
#6
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Hot pressure washer can heat block to 150c if you spray it with wet steam long enough.
#7
Burning Brakes
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Thanks guys. I'm throwing this out there because I'm building the engine from scratch on a stand, and It would be nice to be done once I put it in the car.
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#10
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just use standard heat lamps, turn them on and set a temp probe on the block....we normally need 6 to 8 hrs to get to 250 degrees f.....must keep an eye on the progress.....not real close with the lamps
its a slow procedure...vinnie
its a slow procedure...vinnie
#11
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It's possible you could make it work out, but consider why you are re-stressing the clamping force of the fastener. It isn't worth the risk.
#13
Burning Brakes
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I thought it was one heat cycle...?
Vinnie, have you ever found a loose nut after using your method? Stock or MLS gasket?
Vinnie, have you ever found a loose nut after using your method? Stock or MLS gasket?
just use standard heat lamps, turn them on and set a temp probe on the block....we normally need 6 to 8 hrs to get to 250 degrees f.....must keep an eye on the progress.....not real close with the lamps
its a slow procedure...vinnie
its a slow procedure...vinnie
#14
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i use arp on my engine, i drove the car the hole summer without re-torquing after had read that many skipped the re-torquing part but in the end of the season i saw that pressure was building up a little in the coolant tank so i removed the camtower last winter and re-torqued the head and i could turn all nuts 1/4 more and after that all is ok ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Corleone also suggested when i torqued my head to run hot water trough the engine but i skipped that
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Corleone also suggested when i torqued my head to run hot water trough the engine but i skipped that