Oil recoendations please
#16
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I understand all the additives and such but do slight differences in these things brand to brand truly have any real effect on your engine when it comes down to it..? I see no proof that an engine running redline expensive stuff really is in that much better shape than one running Mobil 1 or even pennzoil dinosaur blood oil.
#17
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So many different variables, how old your engine is, what climate you drive in, track occasionally, recent rebuild.
EG: I use Brad Penn 20/50 semi synthetic on my high mileage engine here in FL as I found lower viscosity full synthetics tend to leak through my old seals. If I rebuilt the engine I would probably go VR1 10/40 with new seals, which is what I use on my track car. If I lived in a climate that gets below freezing I would reconsider my choice.
EG: I use Brad Penn 20/50 semi synthetic on my high mileage engine here in FL as I found lower viscosity full synthetics tend to leak through my old seals. If I rebuilt the engine I would probably go VR1 10/40 with new seals, which is what I use on my track car. If I lived in a climate that gets below freezing I would reconsider my choice.
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#22
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I understand all the additives and such but do slight differences in these things brand to brand truly have any real effect on your engine when it comes down to it..? I see no proof that an engine running redline expensive stuff really is in that much better shape than one running Mobil 1 or even pennzoil dinosaur blood oil.
That being said, I won't chance changing to synthetic in my recently acquired 86 944na that has 213k+ miles. I'm running Valvoline VR1 20w50 in the gray/silver bottle.
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I'm a believer in synthetic oil in newer vehicles or vehicles that will not leak at the seals. I have three vehicles (a GMC truck, Volvo S-80, Ford Five-Hundred) which I use strictly synthetic oil, all have over 267K miles and run like new.
That being said, I won't chance changing to synthetic in my recently acquired 86 944na that has 213k+ miles. I'm running Valvoline VR1 20w50 in the gray/silver bottle.
That being said, I won't chance changing to synthetic in my recently acquired 86 944na that has 213k+ miles. I'm running Valvoline VR1 20w50 in the gray/silver bottle.
#24
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Previous owner said mine didn't leak. I looked under the car where it had been sitting for most of its life and I didn't see any oil on the ground at all. I thought, "wow, that's something." A 27 year old 944 with no leaks.
When I got it home I removed the batwing. Heh, no leaks. Ya, right.
#25
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I run an annual rotation ( based on ambient temps) of:
SUMMER: VR1 20/50, (4,000 mile interval)
FALL: Rotella 15/40 dino, (4,000 mile interval)
WINTER: Rotella 5/40 synthetic, (6,500 mile interval)
with NO INCREASE in my oil leaks.
(Both balance shafts weep as does cam housing onto the block)
The Synthetic required 1.6qts refill over that 6,500. (8 oz. /1,000 miles)
The dinos required about 10 oz. of refill every 1,000 miles.
With the T6 synth, Blackstone still reported good TAN/TBN figures even after that long winter run... prolly another 1,000 miles left in the interval.
The dino oil tests came back after ~4k miles with maybe another 700 miles left in their TBN/TAN. So the extra cost of synth clearly yielded about double the life...
'88 n/a chipped/header daily driver with roughly 270,000 miles.
Original engine but no racing and my revs never exceed 4,750 rpm ( no flames please).
As an avid researcher, my findings ( including "Why we hate CJ4 oil") led me to these three oils; each with plenty of ZDDP.
My Blackstone results:
https://rennlist.com/forums/10486473-post1.html
#26
Former Vendor
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I run Brad Penn 20W50 in all of my cars now, and it's the only brand of motor oil I will sell.
http://garage.ideola.com/prod-Supplies.html
![](http://garage.ideola.com/images/prod-BradPenn20W50.gif)
I will be running Facebook-exclusive specials on case quantities later this spring, so "like" my facebook page to get notification when the specials run.
http://garage.ideola.com/prod-Supplies.html
![](http://garage.ideola.com/images/prod-BradPenn20W50.gif)
I will be running Facebook-exclusive specials on case quantities later this spring, so "like" my facebook page to get notification when the specials run.
#27
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Amsoil 20w50, cause I don't even bother with the lower quality grade 3 stock oils (most oils on the market). Has plenty of the important additives like zddp, 15,000mi drain intervals or 1yr, whichever comes first (just change the oil filter at normal intervals), and its also readily available at Napa. Sure its more expensive, but when you're only changing oil once a year, you actually save money over the cheap low quality oils in the long run. Its crazy to not use a long drain oil like Amsoil!
#29
Nordschleife Master
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...I will be running Facebook-exclusive specials on case quantities later this spring, so "like" my facebook page to get notification when the specials run.
![](http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa409/thomakis/7bf5d61d.jpg)
#30
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I run Brad Penn 20W50 in all of my cars now, and it's the only brand of motor oil I will sell.
http://garage.ideola.com/prod-Supplies.html
![](http://garage.ideola.com/images/prod-BradPenn20W50.gif)
I will be running Facebook-exclusive specials on case quantities later this spring, so "like" my facebook page to get notification when the specials run.
http://garage.ideola.com/prod-Supplies.html
![](http://garage.ideola.com/images/prod-BradPenn20W50.gif)
I will be running Facebook-exclusive specials on case quantities later this spring, so "like" my facebook page to get notification when the specials run.