ninjacoco

I know there's a leaky hose fitting (plastic nipple that screws in) atop the radiator and the air box needs to be bolted down, but aside from that, it looks like I have all minor stuff from here on out. Well, in comparison to the water pump.

Still, here's what my car sounded like on start-up: https://m.facebook.com/story.php?sto...f&notif_t=like

The louder, kind of whining noise seems to be coming from the alternator, which might be bad. It didn't spin totally freely when we hooked it up. All belts are new.

I have a little ticking, which the previous owner of my first 944 said might be an exhaust leak between the manifold and the head. Also, that oil is naaaasty, so I'll have to do an oil change on it soon. Question: how hard is it to change the oil pan on these cars?

When left to idle on its own, it kind of slows down every once in a while. Exhaust leak? O2 sensor is bad? Something borking the ECU's idea of what's going on?

Help! I need to know how to fix this car to run ASAP.

87944turbo

lifter tick? If it hasn't been run in months the oil may have drained out of them. They should pump back up and the noise should go away if that's what it is. Sounds mechanical to me. Putting clean oil in there should help. There are also additives that some people use to help with lifter noise.

Whining sounds like the balance shaft/belts. You mentioned the belts are new, may want to double check the tension, but they will make that whining noise even when adjusted correctly.

Oil pan gasket is pretty involved to say the least. http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/lube-06.htm

Incredible source of information here in case you're not familiar with it. http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index4.htm

Squid924

I agree with everything stated above by "87944turbo"

Is the tick your main concern? How long did you let the car run for? Depending on the oil in the crankcase it could take a little while for the lifter tick to go away. As stated there are additives you can add to your oil to help speed up this process, or fresh oil with a new filter.

Best of luck.

f1rocks

Lifter noise may stay until you put the car under load. Just idling and revving it will not always cure the tick.

Belts sound tight, make sure the alternator is not tight as well but they sound like engine belts.

Why do you need to drop the oil pan? If you are going to, and it's not a really bad job, just takes a weekend to do everything else you'll need while you're in there.
Additional Jobs: Rod bearings (extra 4 hours for a newby)
Reinforce the oil pickup tube (get a spare one built and swap out)
Replace pan with a late pan better scrapers and baffle (ultimate would be install flapper door like Linsdey sells)

This will get you at least closer to "bullet proof" ha, I laugh even trying to type that.

ninjacoco

Eh, it's all kind of my concern at this point. It's running the 3/1 LeMons race. I think the car's run for 40 minutes total now--it sounds better every time, but I don't want to run it too much without changing the oil and fixing that coolant leak.

I bought a Turbo oil pan (whoohoo baffle) and a new gasket for the car. I need to work out the block-off points for the extra pick-ups I don't have, but that sounds like a lot of trouble for a track that won't have too many longer, higher-g corners (Eagle's Canyon). It's got a little seepage around the edges, but overall, it should last for a LeMons race. Good to know, haha. If it does survive, sounds like I have a summer project. :/

mytrplseven

First off, change the oil and filter. All that crappy oil is going into the lifters and bearings and that's not good. Second, the oil pan gasket is one of the more envolved and complicated jobs on this car since you have to drop the cross-member, disassemble some of the front suspension, steering, etc. This is a great time to address other items "while you're in there": rod bearings and bolts; tie rod and steering rack boots (if they're cracked); engine mounts; and finally, read up on oil pan installation posts. There's quite a few of successful and failed jobs.

Verify if you have an exhaust leak between the manifold and the head. If so, this can cause erosion of the head where the exhaust manifold bolts on and it can't be sealed with just new gaskets if it's really eroded.

One technique I recommend for the new oil pan gasket install: Wipe the mold release from the gasket with acetone or lacquer thinner. This will help in keeping it from slipping and squirting out in the corners (a common failure issue).

87944turbo

FWIW we ran our LeMons/CC 944 with a cracked pan that was dripping oil. I wouldn't go after a seeping pan 1 month out from a race unless you're really concerned about it and the rest of the car is completely prepped.

I found it mildly annoying to replace the pan gasket with the motor on an engine stand.

Good luck in your race, be sure to post up your results/pictures!

ninjacoco

Awesome - thanks!

Oil pan definitely seems like an "I'm bored and it's summer" job. The rest sounds totally checkable and doable - yay. There's a couple suspension items I need to swap out anyway, but yeah.

william_b_noble

I can't believe that you let the car run for even 30 seconds with what you describe as "naaaasty" oil - that is really stupid, and one of the best ways to destroy an excellent car that I can think of - are you really too cheap to spend $15 on 5 quarts of oil? If the answer is yes, you have no business owing the car, find someone who can afford oil and a filter and sell it to them and get a $50 junker and drive it until it stops running.

The alternator noise is probably normal, the other stuff might be. But you have probably put 50,000 miles of wear on the engine by running it with bad oil. These cars are tough, but they are not immune to intentional destruction.