Help me getting this bolt out !?
#16
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True, but due to the metal bolt and aluminium bush the two can get really stuck. When I got mine out I tried hammering the remains of the bolt out of the bush, using a vice and a big hammer
No way it would move.
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#17
Instructor
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I've had exactly the same problem, nothing worked out (heat, hammer, puller, really nothing!).
So the final option was to take hacksaw and saw through the rubber silentbloc, aluminium inner bush and seized bolt. Do this twice (front and rear) and its lose. Also you won't have to go to the gym for a week or two since hacksawing through rubber is... well.... let me put it this way: no fun![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Offcourse you'll need a new silentbloc.
So the final option was to take hacksaw and saw through the rubber silentbloc, aluminium inner bush and seized bolt. Do this twice (front and rear) and its lose. Also you won't have to go to the gym for a week or two since hacksawing through rubber is... well.... let me put it this way: no fun
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Offcourse you'll need a new silentbloc.
#18
Burning Brakes
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a puller that presses on the bolt ought to work, put the puller arms over the suspension part and tighten it against the bolt. It would have been better if you hadn't cut the head off because you could also pull on the head at the same time, but now that it's cut off, the puller may be the best choice. it will certainly come out with heat, but the heat will destroy the rubber - if you heat it to red (or orange) it will come out, guaranteed. but you will have to get it centered in the hole so the aluminum doesn't suck the heat away, and you will want to not overheat the aluminum. Or take the whole suspension cross piece out with the arm, and put the whole thing into a hydraulic press - that is probably what I would do if the gear puller approach doesn't work
#19
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Without the head on, I torqued the the treaded opposite side so its like a puller and damn i torqued it tight. Still nothing now. I soak it with penetrant and nothing come.. Next step is to heat to red / orange and punch it hard.
#20
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Burn the rubber out, then you should have room to push the arm to one side, maybe a small cutter wheel will fit in to cut the bolt off on one side then push the other way and cut off the otherside. If you have a cutting torch you could also use it to cut the bolt off. Once you get rid of the rubber you will see lots of options.
#21
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Not sure it would be possible, but if you could get a two-arm gear puller over the bolt, use its spindle to press the bolt.
Kevin
Catellus Engineering
Kevin
Catellus Engineering
#22
Burning Brakes
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what Kevin is saying is what I was recommending too - you can get a lot of force that way, much more than by tightening a nut onto the bolt, but do both, so you are both pushing and pulling. And, I've had better luck with Kroil than with other penetrants. Finally, you can drill it out, you don't have to drill all the way, just enough to get the two ends flush with the arm.
#26
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#27
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PS: develop an anti-seize habit! Any suspension fastener, brake or fuel line fitting, anything exposed to the elements, give the threads a smear of anti-seize. It frustrates me that manufacturers don't do this, I really don't think they believe anyone would own a car that's more than three years old.
Kevin
Catellus Engineering
Kevin
Catellus Engineering