R4MS3S

True, but due to the metal bolt and aluminium bush the two can get really stuck. When I got mine out I tried hammering the remains of the bolt out of the bush, using a vice and a big hammer No way it would move.

jeffrsmith

I am sure if you were to approach it slow and deliberately you could use a sawzall.

william_b_noble

a puller that presses on the bolt ought to work, put the puller arms over the suspension part and tighten it against the bolt. It would have been better if you hadn't cut the head off because you could also pull on the head at the same time, but now that it's cut off, the puller may be the best choice. it will certainly come out with heat, but the heat will destroy the rubber - if you heat it to red (or orange) it will come out, guaranteed. but you will have to get it centered in the hole so the aluminum doesn't suck the heat away, and you will want to not overheat the aluminum. Or take the whole suspension cross piece out with the arm, and put the whole thing into a hydraulic press - that is probably what I would do if the gear puller approach doesn't work

jaycasso

Without the head on, I torqued the the treaded opposite side so its like a puller and damn i torqued it tight. Still nothing now. I soak it with penetrant and nothing come.. Next step is to heat to red / orange and punch it hard.

paul29

Burn the rubber out, then you should have room to push the arm to one side, maybe a small cutter wheel will fit in to cut the bolt off on one side then push the other way and cut off the otherside. If you have a cutting torch you could also use it to cut the bolt off. Once you get rid of the rubber you will see lots of options.

KevinGross

Not sure it would be possible, but if you could get a two-arm gear puller over the bolt, use its spindle to press the bolt.

Kevin
Catellus Engineering

william_b_noble

what Kevin is saying is what I was recommending too - you can get a lot of force that way, much more than by tightening a nut onto the bolt, but do both, so you are both pushing and pulling. And, I've had better luck with Kroil than with other penetrants. Finally, you can drill it out, you don't have to drill all the way, just enough to get the two ends flush with the arm.

944Ross

As he said, he cut it off so he could punch it thru. No room to swing a hammer on the other side.

Dougs951S

Kroil is great stuff, hard to get a hold of these days though.

944Ross

I use it too, Doug, you can buy direct pretty reasonably.

william_b_noble

you can buy Kroil from the manufacturer, here http://www.kanolabs.com/

KevinGross

PS: develop an anti-seize habit! Any suspension fastener, brake or fuel line fitting, anything exposed to the elements, give the threads a smear of anti-seize. It frustrates me that manufacturers don't do this, I really don't think they believe anyone would own a car that's more than three years old.

Kevin
Catellus Engineering

william_b_noble

anti seize on threads would not have helped in the OP's situation, but a stainless bolt would.

Mangonesailor

What about on the shank?

MB968

If I understand what's frozen, then anti-seize on the shank should have minimized the issue.