I have stuck with Stoptech pads on my street driven cars and nothing but good results. Might want to check them out also.

 

No, my OE pads are just worn out and I'm wondering if hotter pads would stop me any faster than OE replacement with the tires I have.

 

I have stock pads on my 968. During autox last year (my first use of this car for autox), I found that I could overheat the brake pads with more aggressive use of the brakes (than I should have been using for the course).

In terms of the higher coefficient of friction from the perf. pad, a somewhat higher pedal pressure will make up the difference in stopping (the coefficient of friction for perf. vs OEM pads won't so large that you can't just increase the pressure on the pedal. Of course you get better feel and control with the higher friction pad. If you are an engineer, you'll remember the F=UN equation. To get the same braking force, from a pad with a lower U, you just have to increase the force on the pad N. My guess is you won't ever really notice the difference from perf. pads unless you REALLY push the limits of the braking system.

So, it becomes a question of your preference. Under certain, unusual circumstances during spirited driving with a lot of use of the brakes, I think you would see a difference. However, you'd have to be really working the brakes to overheat them. I haven't changed from the OEM pads that came on my car, but if I start doing more autox on a regular basis, I will. And, fortunately, our pads are really easy to change out, so it takes almost no time to put in a special pad for a track day where you would definitely need different pads.

 

HPS have worked quite well on my '84 for autox w/ summer tires. They seem consistent over a pretty wide temp range. Decent amount of dust but easy enough to clean.

 

Ive had hawks on everything from ax hondas and miatas to fullsize trucks etc. night and day compared to parts store stuff-they do dust and sometimes they squeal. I might run ebc pads on my new to me 44

 

Spencer, as you are currently locking your [front?] brakes at will, a more aggressive pad will not help you stop any faster. As previously mentioned, you are already exceeding the coefficient of friction [Cf] of your tires, the [current] weakest link in your chain.

From my perspective, to decrease your braking distance, you can try two things: replace tires with softer compound and higher Cf [e.g. lower UTOQ rating] to prevent lock-up, or, install a brake bias valve between your master cylinder and rear brake circuit to allow your rear brakes to do more work. But be careful here...you don't want the rears locking before the fronts and adding dynamic instability to your car.

Some folks have installed the brake bias valve from a 928 [heavier car] in their 951, allocating more of the braking work to the rear calipers. Does anyone know if/how that brake bias valve [5/33] works with 944 single-piston calipers?

 

It works well, it came on the 944S from the factory. Mine stops nicely and I miss the bias when I drive the s2.

 

Interesting to hear that. With the bias valve in place, do you feel your [lighter] S stops as well, or better, than your [heavier] S2?

 

The S2 still stops faster/harder, but it definately puts more in the front brakes. It displays a bit more dive up front than the S. The S also requires more pedal effort than the S2, but it comes on strong after you get into the pedal. The S2 grabs quick and really bites down and i occasionally hit the ABS on winter tires. A fun part of the comparison is that both the S and the S2 are running the same PBR ultimate pads. Within the NA brake world, the 944S does stop better than the 924S i had that did not have the bias valve, it was porsches cheater method to get a little more brake out of the NA system for the car.

I actually ordered the 33/5 for the S2 last night so i can put it in when the car goes down for its winter maintenance. I can't wait.

 

Is it difficult to install that 944S bias valve onto an NA master cylinder?

 

It should be quite easy for you, it just threads into the front port of the master cylinder. If you look in this pic, you can see it coming off the front port. On an ABS car you have to pull the front wheel well liner and do it at the ABS manifold.

 

And it really does seem to stop better with the valve?

 

Yes, there is less nose dive as the rear brakes do more work. If you want to wait to hear my impressions of it after i get it installed on the S2 i can post about the difference on the car. I've been DDing the S2 so it will be easier to relate the change. It was a month and a half between the 924S getting hit and buying 944S for me and i had to go through the braking system on the 944S so i didn't get to do a true back to back comparo.

 

Some info on the 33/5

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ghlight=33%2F5

Scroll down at this site to 14.5 for the bias info

http://www.connact.com/~kgross/FAQ/944faq13.html

Edit: and on reading up more on it, the 33/5 won't be an increase for you, since the NA 944 doesn't have a proportioning valve stock, the 33/5 would just reduce rear brake under extremely hard braking for you which means your less likely to spin it. It will make more of a difference on my S2 because it came with the 18/5 and as such the 33/5 adds more pressure from 18 to 33bar vs stock and then trails off the pressure.

I'm learning things today! woo.