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Where to start with 1986 944 n/a

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Old 01-05-2014, 06:28 PM
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baseman422
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Default Where to start with 1986 944 n/a

Hey guys,

I have been searching the site for awhile now and finally decided its time to post.

I have found lots of helpful advice on here in regards changing water pumps, belts, etc. but I really need some advice as to where I should begin with my "new" car.

I just bought a 1986 944 N/A. The car ahas been sitting for about 5 yrs. The add said that the car needed a water pump, belts and hoses. I thought for sure that when I saw the car the timing belt would be broke.

I went to look at the car and found that all the belts were intact! I brought the car home and upon further inspection, the belts are really loose and the water pump had been taken loose. I am a little concerned about bent valves and I would like some advice as to where I should go from here.

I do not want to end up sinking more money in this than it is worth. What would you guys check first. I know I will need to replace the water pump, belts, rollers but should I check anything out before I spend the money on those items. If I should get the items where you get them from?

I really appreciate all advice and info.
Old 01-05-2014, 07:42 PM
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Dimi 944
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Welcome to the forum!
In order to attempt to do some tests without opening the engine you will need tight belts and well secured water pump in place If the belts were loose then you will have to make sure you set your timing marks correctly before tightening the belts.
This website has been a great source of info and a service tutorial for many 944 owners: Clarck's Garage
You can use what you have in the car for the sake of having the motor running and doing some diagnostics. You can do a compression and leak down tests. You can listen for ticking noises when the engine is running which might tell you if you have problems with lifters, bent valves or some times the injectors make ticking noise.
Make sure you crank the motor by hand first, if you suspect bend valves and then with the fuel relay disengaged to make sure you get good oil pressure. Inspect your cooling hoses for visual cracks and holes having in mind that the ad stated that.
You can source new oem replacement parts from web sites such as:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/index.htm
https://www.paragon-products.com/default.asp
http://www.autoatlanta.com/

The used parts market is also pretty big for the 944/951/968 models. So you can source decent used parts if you decide to go that route.

I hope my 2 cents were helpful! I have owned the same model as yours for the last 6 years and it has been quite an exciting and joyful adventure! Have fun!
Old 01-05-2014, 07:48 PM
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travisgreen
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I agree, before changing belts or water pump (unless it's seized) get the motor and cam in correct position and Tighten the belts. Next step, a compression test
Old 01-05-2014, 08:18 PM
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admiralkhole
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You're also going to want to clean the fuel system. Whatever gas was in the tank has mostly turned to varnish after that long. Things like the strainer, pump, and filter will need to be replaced. The gas tank can be cleaned out, but it's a major pita. You'll also want to blow out all of the fuel lines with compressed air just to make sure nothing will hinder the flow of fuel. Good luck with your project, and welcome!
Old 01-05-2014, 10:55 PM
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baseman422
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Thanks for the info. I had a question. If my belts are loose how do I get everything lined up correctly? I have seen the info or getting the motor to TDC, but how do I aline everything else?
Old 01-17-2014, 05:04 PM
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baseman422
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If I tighten my belts do you guys think I can turn the engine by hand to check tdc with out damaging my valves?
Old 01-17-2014, 05:21 PM
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konakat
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Originally Posted by baseman422
If I tighten my belts do you guys think I can turn the engine by hand to check tdc with out damaging my valves?
If you just tighten it as it sits now and it is out of alignment, chances are the valves are already bent, so I would say go for it. If you are trying to find TDC on your own I recommend putting a dowel down the spark plug hole, the mark on the flywheel is a pain in the *** unless you have someone helping.
Old 01-18-2014, 10:52 PM
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baseman422
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I was able to get some work done on the car today.

I took off the loose belts and lined everything up to tdc, Put the belts back on and did a compression test.

Results looked great to me. they cylinders read 190, 200, 190, 200!

That says to me that there is no valve damage. Does that sound right?

Im making a list of things to do now:

change oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, water pump, belts and rollers, spark plugs and wires, dist cap and rotor, battery, and fill with antifreeze.

Does that sound about right to everybody? I think after all of that it should run.
Old 01-18-2014, 10:59 PM
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konakat
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Originally Posted by baseman422
I was able to get some work done on the car today.

I took off the loose belts and lined everything up to tdc, Put the belts back on and did a compression test.

Results looked great to me. they cylinders read 190, 200, 190, 200!

That says to me that there is no valve damage. Does that sound right?

Im making a list of things to do now:

change oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, water pump, belts and rollers, spark plugs and wires, dist cap and rotor, battery, and fill with antifreeze.

Does that sound about right to everybody? I think after all of that it should run.
There are still plenty of things that could prevent it from running correctly, but that is certainly a good start. Personally, I would start with the pump and belts, top off the coolant, and then see how it's doing.
Old 01-21-2014, 03:25 AM
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william_b_noble
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change belts and rollers. change oil and filter. drain gas and put in new gas, remove bleed fitting from front of gas manifold and bleed out a couple of cups until you have new gas, reinstall the bleed fitting (it's a capnut holding a ball to seal the manifold at the front end), and then see if it runs. it will probably need ignition wires, cap, rotor and plugs. change brake fluid including the clutch, using a pressure bleeder. you may be lucky, but don't be surprised when you need to change the master cylinder and the clutch slave and master cylinder.
Old 01-25-2014, 11:15 PM
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baseman422
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Things seam to be going great! Today I got the old water pump, rollers, tensioners, and rear belt cover off. I have a couple if questions about installing the new waterpump. First of all I have read that I cannot use the old thermostat, is that correct? It seamed to fit just fine in the new pump. Also, what modifications did you have to make to the rear timing cover? I drled out the two holes for the belt guide, but when I put on the new timing roller and tensioner, it seams to rub on the plastic. Any help would be appreciated!
Old 01-26-2014, 04:00 AM
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william_b_noble
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test the thermostat to make sure it opens at the proper temperature - put it in a pan of water on the stove and heat until it opens, measure water temp
Old 01-26-2014, 01:12 PM
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baseman422
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It operates properly, I have just heard that there is a diff thermostat and spacer needed to use with the new style water pump. Anyone know?



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