johntorg

I just bought Euro-Spec 84 944. The PO did some engine work which included removing the oil pump. He couldn't get it to produce oil pressure while cranking, and, after trying all the usual remedies, sold it to me on Ebay.

Here are the current symptoms:

Cranking with the plugs out, the gauge goes to 1 bar for about a second and then drops to zero. My first thought is the OPRV, but I'm not sure it can cause these symptoms. BTW the crank pulley is torqued to 155 ft/lbs.

This would seem to indicate that the pump itself is working. Has anyone encountered these symptoms and solved the problem?

Reimu

I couldn't get pressure until I actually started the car after a rebuild

It was a bit scary but after around 4 seconds it pressurized

johntorg

Tried that, but no joy.

V2Rocket

Are you going by the stock gauge or using a mechanical one?

johntorg

Both gauges show the same thing. Lifter clatter confirms low oil pressure.

turbodave

From what you have posted, I would say the OPRV is stuck open. You might try this: Pull the plugs. Spray the cylinder walls as best as you can with WD40. Pull the DME relay. It may be easier for you, on a '84 to just unplug the injectors. Crank the engine several times at 10 second intervals with a 30 second cool down for the starter between cycles. Watch your oil pressure gauge for trends. Building and then declining oil pressure would indicate to me that OPRV is not closing properly. This could be the result of misalignment on installation or lack of lubrication of the O-rings on the OPRV. Using the afore mentioned procedure should free it up. If you try this and get no oil pressure, I would pull the OPRV and check it for freedom of movement. Keep in mind that you are checking it without pressure and that binding can still occur even though it seems free enough. Scoring on the valve, the console walls and condition of the O-rings is a better indicator. It doesn't take much. It would be best at this point to loosen the console and using an OPRV alignment tool to re-torque the console. I know, it's a PITA, but a necessary evil before you look else where. Hope this helps.

Van

Without plugs (and with the fuel supply off - e.g. DME relay out), there's no need to worry about overheating the starter. Let it crank a minute or two, if that's needed.

I also wouldn't spray the cylinder walls down with any solvents... if anything, just squirt a little motor oil in there.

I would check your OPRV... But other common problems are oil pump internal part mis-match, cracked pickup tube and bad girdle (oil passage) seal.

If it were me, I'd be suspect of the PO's work and would start taking it all apart.

johntorg

I have tried trying to build oil pressure as you suggested but the result is always the same. Goes to 1 bar and then drops to 0. I'll take a look at the OPRV tomorrow and also see if the oil filter has filled up.

harveyf

I went out and took a look at a bare block from a 1985 N/A. The oil pressure relief mechanism is the "first stop" immediately after the outlet of the oil pump. From there the primary path continues to the oil filter. So I would agree that you should pull the oil filter and check for oil there. But it's a little bit of a mixed bag. Even if the plug for the OPR was completely missing, the pasageways exposed (to bypass the oil) are smaller than the diameter of the main route. So I would think in a properly functioning system, you would still get some oil to the filter. If the filter is dry I agree with Van and should proceed to tear down the engine. If it is wet, then you probably have a bad sensor.

Van

One thing to point out about the sensor, it's really two sensors in one - the low pressure warning light and the variable oil pressure.

I think it's highly unlikely that *both* parts of the sensor would fail simultaneously.... so observe both the warning light and the gauge.

(And, usually when the gauge part of the sensor dies, it makes the needle point to 5+ bar.)

johntorg

Both the oil pressure light and the gauge indicate no/low oil pressure. I hooked up a mechanical gauge and it reads the same.

kevin12973

I had the same problem after having the front of my car jacked up in the air for a few days, (no oil press). I did everything you did and no joy. I primed the oil system by pouring oil in the center oil hole under the oil filter and pushing through the oil galleys with compressed air to re-oil all the bearings and such while cranking later. To try to prime the pump I poured oil down the other hole under the oil filter. Thats the hole that leads to the oil pump via oil cooler. Use a hose and funnel and be patient, with the front jacked up an pass. side jacked up to get the cooler housing high as possible. It will take many top offs before its filled. I also cranked the engine backwards by hand to get the pump to suck oil down.
When I tried first cranking with starter and fuel relay out no press after 10 seconds. Put the relay in and started up then........... after 3 seconds oil press!!!!!!! Been great 6 months after.
I also cleaned up and re-aligned my one piece oprv, not sure if that was the root cause of my problem.
Good luck and I hope you get this behind you soon. Kevin

kevin12973

EDIT ; I ment three piece (early type) OPRV.

theedge

You could also try pouring oil down through the oil filter ports to get some oil into the pump and passages.

Did he remove the oil pickup? If so, perhaps he forgot the donut seal that goes on it or used the wrong seal somehow.

bordin34

Just to reaffirm his point. This is true. My needle never worked and is pegged at 5+ but my oil light functions fine.