Mister Quickie

I know that the outer to inner tie rod connection isn't "tight" since there's a stop nut on the inner but where the outer connects to the wheel assembly when I tighten the bolt, it "squeezes" the boot. Should I not crank this bolt tight as it would damage the boot? If I don't crank it tight I'm thinking it's not secure enough. I feel I'm missing something

Mister Quickie

This is what I'm talking about, there's nothing preventing the rubber boot from being squashed under the pressure of a tightened bolt

MAGK944

That needs tightening and torqued to spec. The boot will collapse as you tighten but it will not be damaged.

Bit of a concern that you would think that a steering component should be left loose. How long have you wrenched on cars?

Mister Quickie

If the boot being collapsed is ok then I'll just make it German tight, that should be ok right?
Also the nut on the inner tie that the outer tie rod meets, I assume should that be tightened securely to the outer tie rod since that would hold it in place. (It would only be about 1/8 to 1/16th of a turn since I left the nut in the same place in order to ensure the new outer tie rod is screwed into the exact same place as the old one in order to minimize misalignment. I'll probably go get an alignment done regardless since this is my first time doing a tie rod.

william_b_noble

if you don't like the idea of being injured in a car crash and of also causing injury to others, you will actually download the service manual and READ it before you drive your car - there is a torque spec for these nuts, the shaft on the tie rod end is tapered, you need to put this together correctly and with the proper torque specs - if you over tighten you can strip the threads and that is bad. This is a real safety issue, please don't be stupid.

you can set the toe in yourself, but if the car has not been aligned in a while it's worth having a shop that understands these cars check the alignment and you will find that there are other adjustments that will be needed.

If you don't have the service manuals and can't find them, you can PM me, I have a full set on an external hard drive I've been trying to get rid of

MAGK944

You have probably got it close doing it that way but I would still go get a front end alignment, its cheap insurance for your tires.

Really should be torquing the steering components to spec though, it's not something I would want letting go at any time.

Mister Quickie

Merchants wanted $90 for the alignment.

I took it to a non-tire shop and they didn't have the alignment machine but told me that as long as the car (steering wheel) drives straight, which it does, the alignment should be fine. I told them that I German tightened the outer tie rod to the wheel hub, the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod, all the bolts related to the drive shaft, and the wheel nuts and they said hand/German tight is fine.

Ready for a drive?

mhr

Locking nut should be tightened to 30 lb/ft. If it spins when you tighten it you can put a block of wood on the underside of the tie rod end and then jack it up to create some resistance and then you should be able to get it to 30 lb/ft.

william_b_noble

there is being "close enough to drive to the shop" and safe. your handling is affected by the alignment as is tire wear and mileage. The shop that said if the wheel is straight all is well is mistaken, that will not give you any indication of caster or camber, nor of toe in. If you choose to proceed without making sure your car is safe to drive, you are placing your life and the life of others at risk. If you can take the car out where there are no people and confirm that it handles right, and if you confirm that the torque on the nut is at least 30#, then proceed. If you don't have $10 for a used torque wrench, please borrow one.

Mister Quickie

bought a torque wrench, tightened the bolt accordingly, it was really tight and the CV boot squeezed but it didn't break like I worried it might, bit the bullet and paid the $9# for the alignment. Works great