Balance Shaft Plug
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Balance Shaft Plug
Does anyone know if the rear balance shaft plugs are suppose to rotate freely. Should there be any play to them in and out? I believe I have a bad seal here. Is there any way to replace the plug without opening the balance shaft housing ? Thank you. <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />
#2
Race Car
The o ring seems to shrink with time, and they will then rotate.
Do you have a leak there...?
After pulling my lower on the later '87 and up BS covers, the drainback towards the front of the cover is restricted severly by the bearing caps integrated design, as opposed to the older seperate bearing cap and cover design.
The cap has a machined groove about 5mm wide down it's center, where the o ring goes, and this cross section is sealed by the raised surface of the block and the BS cover making it impossible to remove without removing the cover...
Do you have a leak there...?
After pulling my lower on the later '87 and up BS covers, the drainback towards the front of the cover is restricted severly by the bearing caps integrated design, as opposed to the older seperate bearing cap and cover design.
The cap has a machined groove about 5mm wide down it's center, where the o ring goes, and this cross section is sealed by the raised surface of the block and the BS cover making it impossible to remove without removing the cover...
#3
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
David -
They do spin. It should be tight, but able to move.
However, it is a normal source for leaks. Make sure you get the locktite 574 from the dealer for the cover.
Good to hear it was nothing major, like a cracked housing or oil separator.
They do spin. It should be tight, but able to move.
However, it is a normal source for leaks. Make sure you get the locktite 574 from the dealer for the cover.
Good to hear it was nothing major, like a cracked housing or oil separator.
#4
[quote]Originally posted by perry951:
<strong>David -
They do spin. It should be tight, but able to move.
However, it is a normal source for leaks. Make sure you get the locktite 574 from the dealer for the cover.
Good to hear it was nothing major, like a cracked housing or oil separator.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Agreed.
They do move, slightly.
Good luck.
<strong>David -
They do spin. It should be tight, but able to move.
However, it is a normal source for leaks. Make sure you get the locktite 574 from the dealer for the cover.
Good to hear it was nothing major, like a cracked housing or oil separator.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Agreed.
They do move, slightly.
Good luck.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Guys !!
I really don't want to tear out my turbo to get to this job yet. I think I'll try to get through all my drivers schools first and then do a complete reseal next winter if it holds. Better stock up on the Mobil 1 !! <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />
I really don't want to tear out my turbo to get to this job yet. I think I'll try to get through all my drivers schools first and then do a complete reseal next winter if it holds. Better stock up on the Mobil 1 !! <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />
#7
Rennlist Member
I don't know if any of you guys have tried it or not but I've used Yama Bond on several rebuilds instead of the Loctite 740. The Yama Bond does not get hard and remains slightly pliable. After three years my 93 RSA has yet to leak.
I know it's not what Porsche uses but think about the stresses on a high reving 1200 cc motor cycle engine.
Nomex on
I know it's not what Porsche uses but think about the stresses on a high reving 1200 cc motor cycle engine.
Nomex on
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#8
[quote]Originally posted by Alan C.:
<strong> I've used Yama Bond on several rebuilds instead of the Loctite 740. </strong><hr></blockquote>
Good stuff. I have used it on many occasions.
Aviation sealant is my old standby.
<strong> I've used Yama Bond on several rebuilds instead of the Loctite 740. </strong><hr></blockquote>
Good stuff. I have used it on many occasions.
Aviation sealant is my old standby.
#9
[quote]Originally posted by David Salama:
<strong>Thanks Guys !!
I really don't want to tear out my turbo to get to this job yet. I think I'll try to get through all my drivers schools first and then do a complete reseal next winter if it holds. Better stock up on the Mobil 1 !! <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" /> </strong><hr></blockquote>
So you are going to let it leak?
huh?
how much is it leaking now?
I would just fix it now....how many of you guys agree?
<strong>Thanks Guys !!
I really don't want to tear out my turbo to get to this job yet. I think I'll try to get through all my drivers schools first and then do a complete reseal next winter if it holds. Better stock up on the Mobil 1 !! <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" /> </strong><hr></blockquote>
So you are going to let it leak?
huh?
how much is it leaking now?
I would just fix it now....how many of you guys agree?
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Since I just did my timing belts at 105 K miles ( currently have 115 K miles), I would like to kill two birds with one stone. The job looks like it will require a front reseal, so I may as well do the belts at the same time. Also, this is my daily driver for now, so I don't want to put it out of commission for a week or two.
My leak is about 1 quart every two fill ups (500 miles or so) This is fairly reasonable I believe. The car is running so strong as well right now, so all I want to do is get it to the track!
Maybe I'll try some of that Redline 20-50 after reading the posts on the Mobil 1 !!
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
My leak is about 1 quart every two fill ups (500 miles or so) This is fairly reasonable I believe. The car is running so strong as well right now, so all I want to do is get it to the track!
Maybe I'll try some of that Redline 20-50 after reading the posts on the Mobil 1 !!
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />