protocol for power steering system bleeding
02-14-2002, 06:14 PM
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protocol for power steering system bleeding
alright, there were some posts on this in the archive, but they all had non-descriptive subjects and my experience is that no one replys to those when they get bumped, so i'm starting this new one.
as the porsche service manuals seem to suck for everything other than looking up torque specs and finding exploded pictures of stuff, i'm not going to waste an hour looking through 2 page detailed descriptions of how to change an oil filter and how the rim for the spare tire was manufactured only to find nothing. so here goes: how do i bleed the power steering system? can i do it on the ground or do i need to have the car up on jackstands to move the wheels freely? do i need to leave something open somewhere to let air out or will it all travel to the top of the system eventually? is there any potential for damage if i screw up?
and lastly, though i bumped another thread to the same effect, is ALL synthetic fluid bad, or is it just synth that isn't dexron 3 compliant that will mess me up?
thanks!
as the porsche service manuals seem to suck for everything other than looking up torque specs and finding exploded pictures of stuff, i'm not going to waste an hour looking through 2 page detailed descriptions of how to change an oil filter and how the rim for the spare tire was manufactured only to find nothing. so here goes: how do i bleed the power steering system? can i do it on the ground or do i need to have the car up on jackstands to move the wheels freely? do i need to leave something open somewhere to let air out or will it all travel to the top of the system eventually? is there any potential for damage if i screw up?
and lastly, though i bumped another thread to the same effect, is ALL synthetic fluid bad, or is it just synth that isn't dexron 3 compliant that will mess me up?
thanks!
02-14-2002, 06:24 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by bs:
can i do it on the ground or do i need to have the car up on jackstands to move the wheels freely?<hr></blockquote>Ideally, you want the front end up in the air with the wheels free to move. With the engine running rotate the steering wheel lock-to-lock a few times or until no more bubbles appear in the reservoir. [quote]do i need to leave something open somewhere to let air out or will it all travel to the top of the system eventually?<hr></blockquote>Leave the reservoir cap off to monitor fluid level and air bubble activity.
[quote]is ALL synthetic fluid bad, or is it just synth that isn't dexron 3 compliant that will mess me up?<hr></blockquote>Don't know where you got that impression. I'd say just the opposite
I'm using Red Line ATF and it works great. I think I have the Dexron 2 version, which is all the car requires. Dexron 3 is fine also.
can i do it on the ground or do i need to have the car up on jackstands to move the wheels freely?<hr></blockquote>Ideally, you want the front end up in the air with the wheels free to move. With the engine running rotate the steering wheel lock-to-lock a few times or until no more bubbles appear in the reservoir. [quote]do i need to leave something open somewhere to let air out or will it all travel to the top of the system eventually?<hr></blockquote>Leave the reservoir cap off to monitor fluid level and air bubble activity.
[quote]is ALL synthetic fluid bad, or is it just synth that isn't dexron 3 compliant that will mess me up?<hr></blockquote>Don't know where you got that impression. I'd say just the opposite
I'm using Red Line ATF and it works great. I think I have the Dexron 2 version, which is all the car requires. Dexron 3 is fine also.
02-14-2002, 06:36 PM
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Ben, this is just my opinion, but a few others share it: all synthetic ATF fluid is BAD for our PS systems. Just use plain jane Dex III from good manufacturer.
As far as fluid change, it would be better to jack up the front, unhook the supply line and see how much you can get out. The system holds about 0.60 quarts. I wouldn't bother unhooking other lines, but you could. Other way is just take a turkey baster and suck out of the resevoir, refill, suck out, a couple times. Wheels are easier to turn back and forth to get air out if the front is off the ground, but that air will get out under normal driving anyway.
I think it is hard to screw anything up in this project, EXCEPT if you put in synthetic fluid!
I see Tom has a different opinion on synthetic. Send him the new rack bill if your's starts to leak after you stick that stuff in.
It is the rack seals that are the things you are worried about.
As far as fluid change, it would be better to jack up the front, unhook the supply line and see how much you can get out. The system holds about 0.60 quarts. I wouldn't bother unhooking other lines, but you could. Other way is just take a turkey baster and suck out of the resevoir, refill, suck out, a couple times. Wheels are easier to turn back and forth to get air out if the front is off the ground, but that air will get out under normal driving anyway.
I think it is hard to screw anything up in this project, EXCEPT if you put in synthetic fluid!
I see Tom has a different opinion on synthetic. Send him the new rack bill if your's starts to leak after you stick that stuff in.
It is the rack seals that are the things you are worried about.
02-14-2002, 06:53 PM
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thanks for the advice... i guess i'll stick with non synthetic though it goes against everything else i've ever been told.
i'm actually replacing the reservior and took the pump off to get to my oil cooler seals so everything is about as drained as it can get without removing the rack right now... all that old crap should be long gone.
so all i do is put everything back together, pour some fluid in the reservior and then leave the cap off the turn the wheels back and forth?!
i guess after bleeding brakes and a hydraulic clutch that word brings to mind things much more difficult than trying to turn my steering wheel without getting grease on it! thanks!
i'm actually replacing the reservior and took the pump off to get to my oil cooler seals so everything is about as drained as it can get without removing the rack right now... all that old crap should be long gone.
so all i do is put everything back together, pour some fluid in the reservior and then leave the cap off the turn the wheels back and forth?!
i guess after bleeding brakes and a hydraulic clutch that word brings to mind things much more difficult than trying to turn my steering wheel without getting grease on it! thanks!
02-14-2002, 07:53 PM
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Changing power steering fluid makes me wonder...
My power steering SUCKS and the fluid looks terrible.
Would changing the fluid help, or am I destined to change out my rack and pump soon? (the pump groans profusely as well)
any help, helps!
My power steering SUCKS and the fluid looks terrible.
Would changing the fluid help, or am I destined to change out my rack and pump soon? (the pump groans profusely as well)
any help, helps!
02-14-2002, 08:09 PM
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Nordschleife Master
Changing that fluid works wonders for getting rid of strange noises. You should change it every couple years. If it looks like crap, do it right away and maybe you can save things for quite a while longer.
02-14-2002, 08:12 PM
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my ps pump was making evil noises as well. i've completely drained the system, and am replacing the reservior to get that nice clean new filter in there. i'll let y'all know (tomorow hopefully) if that made the issues go away.
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02-15-2002, 01:17 PM
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sho'nuff, the noise was still there when i started her up last night, but as i bled and continued to fill the power steering system it gradually went away. now it is nice and quiet and silky smooth. i definately would reccomend a good drain & fill & bleed to anyone who is hearing strange noises.
interesting side note: the procedure defined in the porsche facotry service manual for tensioning the power steering belt (and here i quote)
Push the belt midway between the pump and drive pully with thumb. Deflection: 0.5cm.
this comes complete with a helpful picture of the belt with an arrow in the middle to show you where to put your thumb!
btw, i used a $1.89 bottle of castrol dexron 3 non synthetic, even though i *really* wanted to spring for the synth.... i trust the people here who told me not to.
interesting side note: the procedure defined in the porsche facotry service manual for tensioning the power steering belt (and here i quote)
Push the belt midway between the pump and drive pully with thumb. Deflection: 0.5cm.
this comes complete with a helpful picture of the belt with an arrow in the middle to show you where to put your thumb!
btw, i used a $1.89 bottle of castrol dexron 3 non synthetic, even though i *really* wanted to spring for the synth.... i trust the people here who told me not to.
02-15-2002, 01:38 PM
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I bought RedLine synthetic power steering fluid for my car. I used a hand pump and sucked the system dry. Though, I haven't replaced the fluid yet. Now I see an arguement against synthetic...can we get any more for or against syntheic?
