PaulW Radio Install
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
PaulW Radio Install
Hello all....have not posted to this forum (just the 968 forum)....just bought a 93 968 and bought a new stereo and amps for it....I am going to use this thread to document my install plus ask questions.
Looking forward to some help, and hopefully my tons of pictures will help the next guy.
My car came from the factory with a 6 speaker unit and the last owner put in the "el cheapo" $39 radio.....but that is not important.
First thing, this is what I purchased and what I plan to do:
Head Unit: Becker Porsche Traffic Pro, actually put it in last night, got it working. Man, it's a cool unit, perfect for my car!
It replace the Uber Cool Bravo Unit:
I have never seen a cheaper, smaller radio in my life!
Here is the start up screen on the Traffic Pro...I like! I would call it PIMP.
I plan to install the following JL amp and signal conditioners in the spare wheel well, remove the spare from the car, it is MUCH bigger than it looks, will reconfigure it and make a custom board to mount it on.
The tweeters and rear speakers are Focal K2 Power including crossovers....nice equipment!
I will be buying some new door speakers in the 5.25" version to replace the existing speakers:
I got a TON of wiring and extras with the stuff I bought....
Also going to be installing an iPod/aux input for the Traffic Pro and a Bluetooth phone kit.....more to come.
Looking forward to some help, and hopefully my tons of pictures will help the next guy.
My car came from the factory with a 6 speaker unit and the last owner put in the "el cheapo" $39 radio.....but that is not important.
First thing, this is what I purchased and what I plan to do:
Head Unit: Becker Porsche Traffic Pro, actually put it in last night, got it working. Man, it's a cool unit, perfect for my car!
It replace the Uber Cool Bravo Unit:
I have never seen a cheaper, smaller radio in my life!
Here is the start up screen on the Traffic Pro...I like! I would call it PIMP.
I plan to install the following JL amp and signal conditioners in the spare wheel well, remove the spare from the car, it is MUCH bigger than it looks, will reconfigure it and make a custom board to mount it on.
The tweeters and rear speakers are Focal K2 Power including crossovers....nice equipment!
I will be buying some new door speakers in the 5.25" version to replace the existing speakers:
I got a TON of wiring and extras with the stuff I bought....
Also going to be installing an iPod/aux input for the Traffic Pro and a Bluetooth phone kit.....more to come.
#2
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Question Number 1: How to Route the Amp Wire?
I have pulled the car apart....searched the forums and am looking to pull a 4 AWG wire from the battery to the trunk area.
Here is the stock location behind the glove box....do I drill and new hole and put a grommet in it or can I use an existing hole? Doesn't seem like I can. What would you do to get it through the firewall?
I have pulled the car apart....searched the forums and am looking to pull a 4 AWG wire from the battery to the trunk area.
Here is the stock location behind the glove box....do I drill and new hole and put a grommet in it or can I use an existing hole? Doesn't seem like I can. What would you do to get it through the firewall?
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Question Number 2: Routing the Speaker and Power Wires
I have to run 8 speaker wires from front to back, 4 from the head unit to the signal conditioner, and 4 back to the front to the doors for the tweeter and the other door speaker.
I also have to run the "remote turn the amp on in the back" power lead from the head unit.
So it will be: (1) 4 AWG power, (1) 18 AWG switch power, (8) sets of speaker wires.
Would you run them all in one group along the passenger side to the back wheel well? Or would you separate the speaker wires from the power wires and run them in a different location? If so....where?
There is quite a bit of wiring to run.
Thanks!
I have to run 8 speaker wires from front to back, 4 from the head unit to the signal conditioner, and 4 back to the front to the doors for the tweeter and the other door speaker.
I also have to run the "remote turn the amp on in the back" power lead from the head unit.
So it will be: (1) 4 AWG power, (1) 18 AWG switch power, (8) sets of speaker wires.
Would you run them all in one group along the passenger side to the back wheel well? Or would you separate the speaker wires from the power wires and run them in a different location? If so....where?
There is quite a bit of wiring to run.
Thanks!
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The last owner put it in the car....put the Becker unit it and only have the little door speakers hooked up....OMG, it sounded so much better. You can buy the unit for $39 on Amazon. Or I could send it to you.
#6
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there is a nice channel, at least in the 944, along the edge of the carpet and into the gap between the rear inner wheel well and the interior, thence to the rear. If I were you, I'd try hard to keep the spare, mount the equipment between the trunk and the rear fender - you don' t want to look at the amp, just listen to it, right? Again, I don't; know the 968, but there is lots of room on a 944 in those areas
#7
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#8
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Thread Starter
there is a nice channel, at least in the 944, along the edge of the carpet and into the gap between the rear inner wheel well and the interior, thence to the rear. If I were you, I'd try hard to keep the spare, mount the equipment between the trunk and the rear fender - you don' t want to look at the amp, just listen to it, right? Again, I don't; know the 968, but there is lots of room on a 944 in those areas
#10
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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I ran a 4WG power line from battery (w/ separate fuse block adjacent to battery), through a newly drilled hole in the firewall (cover bare metal w/ touch-up brush, install grommet) in that same spot you showed in your first post. I tucked it under the carpet along the passenger door entry plate, along the side the rear seat, and under the fuel fill pipe. Also ran the remote-turn on wire w/ it. Wrapped in fabric electrical tape anywhere rub might be a concern. Did not run speaker wire back, just line level interconnects, so ran those along on the driver's side. I would not run the speaker and power lines together in parallel anywhere. I tied into the ground behind the spare tire (GP1/MP1). System is absolutely silent (from ground loop buzz, that is).
I installed power distribution, amps & crossovers on a board that just sits flat between the wheel wells in the hatch. Originally, I had power distribution in the passenger storage well, but there was just enough trapped humidity in there to corrode the connectors, over time (YMMV). This other way, I can easily pull the amps and subs out of the hatch whenever I want to go for a real drive (no need for Sinatra(?) when you're heel/toeing it through the N. GA mountains). Otherwise, I just pull the hatch cover over it all when parking in public, and with the dark tint on the hatch glass, there's really nothing to see.
Good luck w/ your project and show us pics as it moves along!
I installed power distribution, amps & crossovers on a board that just sits flat between the wheel wells in the hatch. Originally, I had power distribution in the passenger storage well, but there was just enough trapped humidity in there to corrode the connectors, over time (YMMV). This other way, I can easily pull the amps and subs out of the hatch whenever I want to go for a real drive (no need for Sinatra(?) when you're heel/toeing it through the N. GA mountains). Otherwise, I just pull the hatch cover over it all when parking in public, and with the dark tint on the hatch glass, there's really nothing to see.
Good luck w/ your project and show us pics as it moves along!
#13
Pretty decent equipment.
As long as the headunit has RCA outputs you don't need the JL cleansweep.
It is used for interfacing amplifiers to stock audio systems and to flatten those funky EQ curves.
I suppose you could use it as a line output converter if radio has no RCA's.
Then again you can feed that JL 300/4 speaker outputs from the radio, just flip the input level switch to "high".
You definitely won't need the JL signal summing device as the signal from your headunit is full range.
As long as the headunit has RCA outputs you don't need the JL cleansweep.
It is used for interfacing amplifiers to stock audio systems and to flatten those funky EQ curves.
I suppose you could use it as a line output converter if radio has no RCA's.
Then again you can feed that JL 300/4 speaker outputs from the radio, just flip the input level switch to "high".
You definitely won't need the JL signal summing device as the signal from your headunit is full range.
#14
I have a 5 channel amp in my spare tire cubby of my '44. FWIW, I have all my speaker wire/remote 12v ran on the drivers side going under the drivers seat up into the center console, and my 4g power and phone jack-gain **** wiring ran on the passenger side (Grounded to the factory point in the trunk). You definitely want to run power wires at least 6 inches away from your audio wires.
The 12v coming from the battery creates a small electromagnetic field that is often picked up by the audio cables, then made audible through your speakers. I run them on completely different sides of the car just to be safe
The 12v coming from the battery creates a small electromagnetic field that is often picked up by the audio cables, then made audible through your speakers. I run them on completely different sides of the car just to be safe
#15
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Thread Starter
I have a 5 channel amp in my spare tire cubby of my '44. FWIW, I have all my speaker wire/remote 12v ran on the drivers side going under the drivers seat up into the center console, and my 4g power and phone jack-gain **** wiring ran on the passenger side (Grounded to the factory point in the trunk). You definitely want to run power wires at least 6 inches away from your audio wires.
The 12v coming from the battery creates a small electromagnetic field that is often picked up by the audio cables, then made audible through your speakers. I run them on completely different sides of the car just to be safe
The 12v coming from the battery creates a small electromagnetic field that is often picked up by the audio cables, then made audible through your speakers. I run them on completely different sides of the car just to be safe