Anyone make some that bolt into the fog light holes. Decent looking and not just riveted on. Its for a street car that gets once a month track use so I don't want it looking like a ricey racecar.

 

I looked and looked but couldn't find anything. Then bought the plastic ones from Pelican. Cut them up and fiberglassed them in the spoiler.
Would i do it again?
Maybe
It was fun to work with fiberglass but visiting the NASCAR shops around and looking at the cars. The high tech solution for the rich and famous is to just cut round holes in the bumper and rivet on this sheet metal. Simple and effective. And a lot lighter than fiberglassing.
But might not pass the esthetics test.

 

My ducts (although currently disconnected) are in the trough below the fogs. You can sort of see them in this pic:



You can't really see them at all unless you're squatting in front of it, or having it hoisted onto a flatbed... not that I would know...

 

Thanks, that doesn't look too bad but I'm not keen on the fiberglass work.

I'm surprised no one made a bolt in, turnkey solution that just fits in the fog light area. Probably have to cut the back of the fog appetite out for a 3in hose but that would be it.

 

OG Racing bought the rights to the Holbert kits for 944-series cars some years ago. Dunno whether they still make and sell them.

I still use the original Holbert kit, although I've always had light steel brackets attaching the front scoops to the body rather than pop rivets to the valence. Not as sexy as Van's, but what can I say?

Kevin
Catellus Engineering

 

Yes I've been informed/pm'ed about the Holbert vents. They look like an elegant solution while making use of a voided part of the front valance area but the price was over $250 or thereabouts back at the start of the century. I think they are nla though and installing in the fog lights would allow maybe a bigger tube (3in), or at least allow better flow for a tube that size. I don't use the fog lights anyway and had them break too often on the track being so low, they almost become expensive disposable items on any car that occasionally sees a track.

 

Call me crazy, but I removed my brake ducts on the race car. Without ducts my rotors are >1000oF when measured coming off track. With ducts, they were maybe 100oF less. Since I'm using DTC 70's and the temp range is 400-1600, I decided I didn't really need the ducts.

 

Paragon sells a kit almost identical to this, with ducts, hose, and backing plate connections.

http://www.paragon-products.com/Brak...bd-944nerp.htm

$360...

 

The ducts are universal from Allstar, $15 a piece, the silicon ducting is $30 for 6ft, different spindle mounts in stainless steel are available elsewhere for $60/pr, sorry but I'm not seeing $360. Plus those ducts are designed to rivet on at the flange, really not what I'm looking for but thanks.

xsboost90 made some nice ones for a Euro bumper a while back, but I don't have a Euro on this car. Something "factory" like this but in the foglight location:

 

I see what you want to do, but it seems like what you really want is something that involves custom fabrication. There just isn't a big enough market for someone to create that kind of kit for 20 year old cars. The Paragon kit, while pricey, does seem like it would work fine for turbos with the tie wraps for occasional track use.

IMO, I would just run as is and not worry about brake cooling if it isn't going to be fully track dedicated.

 

1000 degrees? Wow. I measured mine and they were never above 380 or so. I took my cooling ducts off too. They got in the way when tying down to the trailer. Never had a problem at the track with fade or boiling. But I don't run enduros.

 

Had brake fade and it scared me to do something about it. Not keen on the middle pedal not performing as it should. This car is on the track about once a month and I'm sure some cooling will fix the problem. I drive it to and from the track and use it as a second car for commuting. Isn't that what Dr Porsche designed these cars to do?

 

Stooge, are you measuring these temps after a cool down lap and up the paddock? You need to do it in the hotpits, without a cool down lap.

 

What pads are you running? it may be worth switching to a more track oriented pad on the days your going to run.

Also didn't the 968's have some device on the a-arm to help direct air to the rotors? I remember reading about it somewhere but haven't personally seen it.

Edit, found em. $15 a piece from pelican, special order.

944 341 051 01
944 341 052 01

Look in the PET, section 401. they are pictured there. http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf...68_KATALOG.pdf

 

I'm running without disc backing plates and a cooling tube adapter ready for air (see pic with disc removed) and intermediate pads with blue fluid. If it wasn't such a pain on an na I would swap the discs and pads every track session. This seems to happen every summer here in FL, maybe ambient in the 90's doesn't help. Fine Oct to May with temps in the 70's/80's the na brakes and inter pads are faultless then.