Al Cody

What is involved in upgrading the early 944/924 steel control arm to the later style alloy arm? Does it require the later spindle as well? What is the advantage of the alloy units? Thanks

Skip

IMHO, It's actually a disadvantage. If the Aluminum arms are lighter... it's only by ounces. I have some sitting around and I can't tell the difference. The aluminum arms have a non-servicable ball joint, that once worn, must be professionally rebuilt or replaced ($150-300). The early steel arms have a removeable joint which cost ~$13/ea to replace. Keep the steel and pocket the difference in repair bills.

Oh BTW, I converted my 86na with Aluminum Arms to steel. Markus Blaszak makes special reinforced steel arms... built to order. Mine feature strengthened seams, but retain the single drop link hole.

Skip (man, I need spel-chek)

[ 08-06-2001: Message edited by: Skip ]

Tabor

the only reason to upgrade to the aluminum arms would be if you upgraded to an entire 87- front suspension. But this would require a lot more than just the arms. Like, everything.

Al Cody

Thanks guys. That's about what I thought. I read something about the steel arms not being very good with upgraded sway bars. Not sure where the problems start. My 924S has 18mm (I think). The LeMan special edition 924S came with 21.5mm sway bar in front, but I'm not sure if it used the same steel arm or not. Are the reinforced steel arms much heavier? Is this a racing or autocross only mod? Seems like a bit of overkill for street use.

Skip

Ahh, there's a bit of truth (or myth rather) in that one. The drop link rubber on the early arms will not "naturally" accomodate the 968 M030 (CUP) sway bar (30mm). Easy fix though... just get a fresh set and bore them out (~21mm).

The 924S and ALL other/earlier 924s used steel arms.

Not sure of the exact weight difference, but it isn't much. Figure a 3/4" piece of steel on the leading and following edges and the weld to hold it in place.

Probably is a bit too much for striclty street use.

Good Luck!

billybones

Let me blow this misconception up right here and now... The aluminum arms are servicable. They CAN be greased. The ball joint itself rides in a 2 piece confinement of plastic.. with a spring underneath..on the bottom piece there is a hole that acceses the ball it's self the grease rides beneath this set up.. when needed it will pump the grease up into the ball. and the two piece joint that surrounds this.. the problem is that when you need the grease it is old.... so it will just sit on the bottom and the top piece of plastic cracks and leaves into the boot.. thus play.. Remove the bolt that holds the ball joint on. pry it down. Take a C-clamp and place the stationary side on the top of the ball joint... on the underneath side place a 9/16th's socket on the bottom of the plate and the top of the c-clamp screw flat and screw together till you see the plate stop moving,, this should give you a gap between the retaining ring and the plate..use a small screw driver and remove the ring... unscrew the C-clamp and remove the parts and clean and repack with fresh grease.. reverse The steps to reinstall...
I just bought a used arm. so I had an oportunity to see this... It is servicable but where to get parts if your plastic parts are dammaged??????? I have no Idea...but mine will never wear out again....some one is not telling what is what? out there...

instigator

you think that someone that does the rebuilds would give us the info to do it ourselves?
has anyone got a rebuild to take apart and see if they actually rebuild them or just repack them with grease?
the replacement parts are probably not intended for this particular application(porsche 944 contol arm)if someone has an idea of what they are please share the info, im a cheapo, do it myself to avoid labor cost, kinda guy

Tabor

Well, the thing is that the "ball joint assembly" is GLUED into the control arm. So, you have to get the old one out, and then GLUE the new one in.

Rog

Is it truly glued, or just a typical interference fit?

instigator

Tabor are you sure that they are glued? from what ive seen on the arm it self,it looks like the ball just falls out when the capture ring is pulled out just as Billybones has described. as soon as get to work i'm going to take one of mine apart to see just what makes these so difficult to rebuild. i'm also wondering if the balljoint out of the early arms would fit into the late arms(just the ball and plastic piece not the whole bolted in assy.)

Tabor

Well. I do not know for sure (I have not done it myself). I have however read it at least a half dozen times in various places.

I Hope You guys figure it out. I'm going to get some charlie arms. When I take my old ones off, I will look.

billybones

I was not reffering to repair just to maintenance,, but if maintained you should not need replacement... the dammage occurs when the top plastic is dammaged. and then you are working steel against alluminum.