Intake manifold removal and some other stuff....
01-21-2002, 11:01 PM
#1
Racer
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Intake manifold removal and some other stuff....
Alrighty, this is my 3rd topic on the board at the same time. Sorry.
Anyways, I removed the fuel rail, injectors, intake, etc. and need to now remove the intake manifold. Everything is disconnected except this bold right under the manifold, near the turbo. See picture. Also, what is that thing I have highlighted as "What is this?"
Also, I removed one of the coolant lines to find a lot of corrosion on the interior of the line. Any suggestions on what to do? Replace it? Can it be cleaned? How much?
Anyways, I removed the fuel rail, injectors, intake, etc. and need to now remove the intake manifold. Everything is disconnected except this bold right under the manifold, near the turbo. See picture. Also, what is that thing I have highlighted as "What is this?"
Also, I removed one of the coolant lines to find a lot of corrosion on the interior of the line. Any suggestions on what to do? Replace it? Can it be cleaned? How much?
01-21-2002, 11:08 PM
#2
7th Gear
Kierf,
The bolt that you are refering to with the blue arrow can just be unscrewed. You might have to use a universal joint attached to the socket but shouldn't be a big deal. The red arrow looks like it is part of the air Stabilization plumbing. Once you get the manifold off it will make sense. At least that's what it looks like, the picture in that area is a little dark.
Regarding the hard line with the corrosion, you might just be able to take it off and clean it up real well with some elbow grease. I had a few lines like that and was able to break up the crud and flush it real well.
Pete
The bolt that you are refering to with the blue arrow can just be unscrewed. You might have to use a universal joint attached to the socket but shouldn't be a big deal. The red arrow looks like it is part of the air Stabilization plumbing. Once you get the manifold off it will make sense. At least that's what it looks like, the picture in that area is a little dark.
Regarding the hard line with the corrosion, you might just be able to take it off and clean it up real well with some elbow grease. I had a few lines like that and was able to break up the crud and flush it real well.
Pete
01-21-2002, 11:22 PM
#3
Racer
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I'm an idiot. I know HOW to remove it...use a 13mm socket. What I meant to say...well...nevermind. I need a wobbly. I'm getting old...
The part labeled as what is this? goes into a coolant line. I looked everywhere to find out what it is...
The part labeled as what is this? goes into a coolant line. I looked everywhere to find out what it is...
01-21-2002, 11:38 PM
#4
Nordschleife Master
pull off the throttle body and disconnect that banjo bolt for the turbo water lines. Soak that thing for a while. Mine was nasy too, but not quite that bad. I polished mine then coated it several times with clear header paint. looks great! I wonder how long it will last.
01-21-2002, 11:39 PM
#5
7th Gear
Kierf,
You are not an idiot. I thought it might be a trick question!!
I just took a look at my car and I don't see that hose that you are pointing to in red. Sorry.
Pete
You are not an idiot. I thought it might be a trick question!!
I just took a look at my car and I don't see that hose that you are pointing to in red. Sorry.
Pete
01-21-2002, 11:58 PM
#6
Three Wheelin'
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That bolt that you are trying to get off only needs to be loosened. It is slotted on the right.
The hose clamp that you are pointing to is for the crankcase breather to air intake hose.
The hose clamp that you are pointing to is for the crankcase breather to air intake hose.
01-22-2002, 12:42 AM
#7
Drifting
Kierf-
If you're trying to say how can you "reach" that bolt and put a tool on it, try using a universal joint. I didn't have one, so I used a 13mm open end wrench and then put a hex wrench through the box end for leverage. Then just put the open end on the bolt perpendicular-wise and loosen it a little. The manifold will slide right off.
Don't forget the dipstick tube. It can come right off with the manifold, or use needle nose pliers.
Good luck!
If you're trying to say how can you "reach" that bolt and put a tool on it, try using a universal joint. I didn't have one, so I used a 13mm open end wrench and then put a hex wrench through the box end for leverage. Then just put the open end on the bolt perpendicular-wise and loosen it a little. The manifold will slide right off.
Don't forget the dipstick tube. It can come right off with the manifold, or use needle nose pliers.
Good luck!
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01-22-2002, 03:04 AM
#9
Racer
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I bought a universal joint to try to remove that bolt under the manifold. It doesn't fit with the 13mm bit on the end. A metal vaccuum tube is in the way.
sm, I tried what you did and managed to round the head a little bit.
I found a place that sells PB Blaster. I put some on it. I'll try again tomorrow night.
That sensor that I don't know what it is, is having a tough time coming out. I don't have a 19mm open wrench, so I tried a 3/4" wrench. It fits almost perfectly...but won't turn.
How did you folks get the intake manifold off? I tried everything I can think of and am just ruining the bolt...
sm, I tried what you did and managed to round the head a little bit.
I found a place that sells PB Blaster. I put some on it. I'll try again tomorrow night.
That sensor that I don't know what it is, is having a tough time coming out. I don't have a 19mm open wrench, so I tried a 3/4" wrench. It fits almost perfectly...but won't turn.
How did you folks get the intake manifold off? I tried everything I can think of and am just ruining the bolt...
01-22-2002, 05:21 AM
#10
Three Wheelin'
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There is a mounting bolt for the boost and crankcase vent hard lines near the arrow I drew. I'm not sure if it is possible to get to this bolt, but if it is, then you should be able to move the hard line out of the way so that you can get to the intake manifold mounting bolt.
The green blob shown above is the only piece you need to remove. There is a single plastic tab that retains it to the lower part. Pull it straight off. Do not try to unscrew it or you will break the connector off the wire (ask me how I know
).
01-22-2002, 11:00 AM
#13
Drifting
Kierf-
There's a universal joint at Sears that has the 13mm socket built in. This way, you don't have to add a socket to the universal joint and increase the room needed to work with.
I hear you. This bolt was a pain until I got it off with the open/hex wrench combo I mentioned earlier. Then there's the dipstick tube bolt. One by the sensor connectors by the firewall. I'm sure you know of the other ones by the fuel injectors, so you're almost there. Just be careful of the vacuum lines when you pull up on the intake.
I know your pain. I went through the same problems, but now I know what to do
hope that helps
There's a universal joint at Sears that has the 13mm socket built in. This way, you don't have to add a socket to the universal joint and increase the room needed to work with.
I hear you. This bolt was a pain until I got it off with the open/hex wrench combo I mentioned earlier. Then there's the dipstick tube bolt. One by the sensor connectors by the firewall. I'm sure you know of the other ones by the fuel injectors, so you're almost there. Just be careful of the vacuum lines when you pull up on the intake.
I know your pain. I went through the same problems, but now I know what to do
hope that helps
01-22-2002, 12:37 PM
#14
Racer
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The $45 set of "universal joint sockets" that Sears sells is WELL worth the money. There are some bolts on these cars that are next to impossible to remove any other way. An external universal joint often sticks out too far from the bolt face to be of much use.
Yep, the sensor with the single wire sticking out is the temperature probe for the turbo coolant pump. Pull straight up on the connector, and don't monkey with the "screw-in" parts of the sensor. If you do, it will break.
Greg
Yep, the sensor with the single wire sticking out is the temperature probe for the turbo coolant pump. Pull straight up on the connector, and don't monkey with the "screw-in" parts of the sensor. If you do, it will break.
Greg
