kevin12973

Is there a camber plate that is compatible with stock coil spring? I need more camber for the track but don't want to go nuts on expensive coil overs .
Anyone see these camber adjusting bolts on fleabay? They are supposed to have more eccentric for more movement. That would be nice but never heard of anyone using them.

harveyf

Always helps to state the year of your car.

I can get 2 degrees with the stock adjustment on my 1985. Unless you are running full race slicks, I can't imagine that wouldn't suffice. Frankly, if you haven't gone through with a complete suspension update, I can't imagine you'll be able to spot the difference in ultimate grip level between 2 degrees and the 3 or 4 that you'll get with the camber plates. Save your money and spend it on track time.

kevin12973

Thanks Harvey, I have a 1985/ early model. I can only get 1.5 out of the driver side and strangely enough 2.7 on the pass side. I recently had the crossmember off for oil pan removal and think I need to shift it over to center it up but not sure if it will matter.
I am not running slicks but Toyo R888 on the track only and not getting the inside of the tires to show contact to the edge markers (triangles). Just want the tires to work the best they can but dont want to go crazy with budget.

harveyf

Hey Kevin, thanks for the additional details. You have exactly the same car I have!

If you are running the RRR's, I would suggest you read the NASA 944Spec forum, where there is lots of good personal experience about what those tires seem to like. And yes, I think the general consensus is that they like 3 to 4 degrees negative camber.

That is odd that you can't even up the camber on both sides. Are you sure the car is level? I don't think there is much lateral adjustment capability in the crossmember but it's worth a try. I also find that just using the eccentric bolt doesn't get all the negative camber available. What I do is have the wheel unloaded, tire off. I loosen the 2 bolts (one being the eccentric bolt). I rotate the eccentric bolt to get the most negative camber visually. With both bolts still loose, I then use both hands to rotate the hub as much negative as it will go. I then use my 3rd and 4 hands to tighten the 2 bolts. I have found there is some slop between the 2 bolts that will give me a little more movement in the negative direction. Try that and see what you get.

I bought a digital readout level for quick checking of the camber once the load is back down on the tire but there is no harm in a low tech solution using a plumb bob and making measurements back to the wheel, and doing some trig. The car does need to be level side to side when you do this.

If you check my website, I have an article where I made some camber plates. They didn't cost much but it was a major amount of work.

You didn't ask but I think there is also an article about setting up string lines along the side, to check the toe-in, which you will want to do.

BTW, nobody talks about camber at the rear wheels but I think it is as important as the front. The factory camber adjustment at the rear is pitiful, as far as I can tell. That said, if you lower the car you will automatically get some negative camber at the rear. Most of the guys on the 944Spec forum mention getting about 3 degrees. But in stock form with the half shafts level, there is very little camber.

Good luck!

kevin12973

Thanks Harvey, and yes, I already read your blog/ website. Lots of great reading ! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.

pontifex4

R888s do not need or want that much negative camber on 944s. I run an average of -2.5 front and -2.2 rear on a fairly stiff car with 36psi hot and get fairly even wear on almost all the tracks I visit.

The R888 is massively misunderstood: I try to think of it more as a durable street tire with a top coat of r-compound rubber than as a high-camber race slick. If you treat them right and don't overdrive them, though, they can be very fast on our cars.

To the OP, you're right about the crossmember. There's quite a bit of slop in the holes. You can unbolt all four bolts with the weight of the engine supported and shift it over a little. In my opinion, if you can reach -2 degrees on both sides at the front by having a friend push/pull the wheel as Harvey says, lock it down there and get a shop to even out your toe and you'll be quite happy.

Dutch944

But to answer your question; You can get those camberplates at ebay, or buy the from a shop nearby, depends on where you live!

goatfarmerdave

Good day.Hey Charlie.I just went and had an alignment on Friday.Stock 84 with the exception of konis.We did -2.5 front and -2 rear camber.Also about 1/32 toe out in the front and 1/16 toe in at the rear.I'm on a brand new set of R888.On the road with my spirited corners that I know in my area,the car rotates beautifully with zero tire squeal and I'm pushing it pretty good.Also was on the highway for 20 minutes and didn't have any tramming or wandering.I will be heading out to Cayuga tomorrow night for 4 hours of track time.I will report back to you guys on how it felt when I get back.Oh,the recommendation I got about the track settings was from the guy who installed my tires so he knows alot about tire wear obviously,plus his Dad use to race 944 turbos I believe.

Cheers,

Dave

kevin12973

Which camber plate is compatible with stock coil spring?
Two reasons for wanting camber plates, my max camber is 1.5 neg. and want 2.5 min. The other reason is my rubber bushings on top of strut are shot so would be nice to tighten up that mess.

pontifex4

Sorry, I skipped that part of your question in my answer. I am not aware of any camber plate which is compatible with the stock spring. As far as I know, the least expensive route would be to use the Ground Control coilover kit (which has a 2.5" inside diameter spring) over your current struts, plus their camber plates.

As an alternative, KLA makes a non-adjustable solid upper strut mount (it has a bearing, but no rubber). As far as I know, it's compatible with the stock spring's upper perches.