Junkyard score
#1
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Never wanted to make my 8v a racekor...but after I found this 16v and my constant revisit to supercharge build threads, I'm wondering how impossible it would to get 220whp with the head and a small eaton. Rouge is coming out with the S/SII-MAF, S DME with a piggyback, and obviously doing an engine refresh. But at $20 for the head, do I really have much to lose?
Question to S owners, what would you do to reinforce this head. I always recall seeing something about the chain being a weak point?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/95074898@N08/9388017172/http://www.flickr.com/photos/95074898@N08/9388017172/
Question to S owners, what would you do to reinforce this head. I always recall seeing something about the chain being a weak point?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/95074898@N08/9388017172/http://www.flickr.com/photos/95074898@N08/9388017172/
#5
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San Antonio to be more specific, but yes.
I've never seen a 928 motor in person, so I couldn't tell ya. But this was definitely off an '87 S. I have the nose panel and soon to be fender on my car right now![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
Its definitely going to need some time at the machine shop. The only reason I haven't done head work to my 8v is because its currently my daily. I have no problem taking my time and doing things right, but I would like to address any issues that currently plague these heads that make them so hard to find
I've never seen a 928 motor in person, so I couldn't tell ya. But this was definitely off an '87 S. I have the nose panel and soon to be fender on my car right now
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
Its definitely going to need some time at the machine shop. The only reason I haven't done head work to my 8v is because its currently my daily. I have no problem taking my time and doing things right, but I would like to address any issues that currently plague these heads that make them so hard to find
#6
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Its the timing chain pads more specifically. The chain should be fine unless visually compromised. Pop the cover off, check things out, there are lots of how-to's on chain pad replacement. If you're smarter than an allen wrench it shouldn't take you much longer than a half hour.
I'd also give the paint a thorough looking over on the underside of the cover. My old one had pain flaking off and possibly going in the valve train.
I do find it a little weird that the cam drive is on the drivers side of the head. Unless the pic is mirrored (which it isn't...), then I'd say the other guy is right. Might have once belonged to a 928.
I'd also give the paint a thorough looking over on the underside of the cover. My old one had pain flaking off and possibly going in the valve train.
I do find it a little weird that the cam drive is on the drivers side of the head. Unless the pic is mirrored (which it isn't...), then I'd say the other guy is right. Might have once belonged to a 928.
#7
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You need the intake and header from that S to use this head. ****** them up. You also want the dme, engine harness, injectors/fuel rail, afm, and airbox. You should be able to pull the entire intake assembly from the afm to the head as one piece. With the maf conversion you may not need as much, for the electric side of things (harness /dme) but you'll need the rest. The 16v uses a different bolt pattern on the intake and exhaust.
What's the part number on the head? It's on the intake side of the head. It should be a 944 part number.
What's the part number on the head? It's on the intake side of the head. It should be a 944 part number.
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#9
Burning Brakes
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if you decide to go with this, you will need the distributor assembly - they are not the same, and the timing belt is different as is the tensioner roller, the exhaust manifold is also different. You will need the ignition control module that is mounted behind the driver's side headlight, and a different air cleaner, a different throttle assembly also. I have some of these parts, I have a DME that I know works, for example, some other goodies (see my web site, for a list, wbnoble.com ) - I have these parts due to a rather startling and unfortunate aerodynamic experiment.
#10
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Looking at the photo a little more closely, the exhaust side is facing the camera, with the exhaust cam located on the intake side. More than likely, someone gave up fixing the engine, and just through the parts back together.
#12
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The block has been sold, I was kinda wondering why I got it so cheap...until I saw this
http://www.flickr.com/photos/95074898@N08/9395615769/
GOOD THING I HAVE JB WELD!!!
No but seriously, my boss said he doesn't know of a machine shop that could fix this. Knowing his history with building drag racers and hot rods, I'm willing to take his word for it
http://www.flickr.com/photos/95074898@N08/9395615769/
GOOD THING I HAVE JB WELD!!!
No but seriously, my boss said he doesn't know of a machine shop that could fix this. Knowing his history with building drag racers and hot rods, I'm willing to take his word for it
#14
#15
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%@^@#$!@#%@!@%
After I took the valve cover off, I started to strip the paint in hopes of powdercoating it and flipping it for the profit. After I got a good majority of it off of there, I noticed a nice sized rectangle crack in the cover, bit bigger than a matchbook...
Looks like I'm going to grind it down, bondo it, paint it, and maybe make a clock out of it or something. Noticed online that valves are typically $10 per. Think I could get $20 for all 16?
After I took the valve cover off, I started to strip the paint in hopes of powdercoating it and flipping it for the profit. After I got a good majority of it off of there, I noticed a nice sized rectangle crack in the cover, bit bigger than a matchbook...
Looks like I'm going to grind it down, bondo it, paint it, and maybe make a clock out of it or something. Noticed online that valves are typically $10 per. Think I could get $20 for all 16?