water pump stripped thread Help!
#2
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I definitely recommend time-sert. See my thread if you want more opinions.
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...pump-bolt.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...pump-bolt.html
#5
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When I rebuilt my motor, three water pump bolts broke off. I took it to the machine shop to have them drilled out. They did helicoils. They're not under a lot of torque, so you don't need time-serts.
#6
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If you invest in the helicoil kit, the next 6mm bolt you strip might be something where you don't want to trust a helicoil. So then you will end up paying for both kits.
#7
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One of the threads appears to have been drilled out of center could that be an issue?
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#8
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I had excellent results with helicoil. Off-center drilling - be careful, make sure that you can reassemble, you may need to drill larger, tap, insert a larger bolt, mount pump and use the hole for the bolt as the drill alignment fixture to drill an accurate hole, then retap the new hole as required. If you do this, use red locktite
#9
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They're not under a lot of torque, so you don't need time-serts.
If you do this, use red locktite
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Auto Edge in Minnesota does any work I cannot do myself, and they use Time-sert. I had heard of Helicoil long before I heard of Time-sert, but Time-sert is the only insert name I have heard from an Auto Edge Tech. When it is time to drill in the engine block, I have Auto Edge do it!
#12
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I was suggesting the red (super strength) locktite for the "adapter" that would return the off-center hole back to a properly centered hole - basically only use red on something you never intend to remove - it can be weakened with heat but if you want to get the thing apart it's better to use one of the ones intended to yield (like the purple colored locktite).
as for drilling in the engine block - this does not require special tools, just a decent understanding of techniques. Of course you can pay someone to do it for you but at least in my experience it is more trouble to take whatever it is to where the place that works on it is than it is to just do it and take your time.
as for drilling in the engine block - this does not require special tools, just a decent understanding of techniques. Of course you can pay someone to do it for you but at least in my experience it is more trouble to take whatever it is to where the place that works on it is than it is to just do it and take your time.
#13
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I was suggesting the red (super strength) locktite for the "adapter" that would return the off-center hole back to a properly centered hole - basically only use red on something you never intend to remove - it can be weakened with heat but if you want to get the thing apart it's better to use one of the ones intended to yield (like the purple colored locktite).
#14
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The biggest reason for using Loctite Red is that it has rust inhibitors that are not found in the Blue or Purple products. It serves the purpose of neutralizing the effects of electrolysis caused by the use of dissimilar metals such as the use of zinc coated steel or stainless steel bolts and studs used on aluminum. So in this case it is used for that property and not because of a high torque application. GL