oil pickup tube, do you need to replace bolts?
07-22-2013, 06:14 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
oil pickup tube, do you need to replace bolts?
i'm doing my rod bearings soon and also replacing the pickup tube. I have a new pickup tube but my parts dealer says he doesn't see any bolts listed in the parts diagram for the pickup tube.
can I reuse the bolts or nuts that attach the pickup tube to the block? or do I have to replace them?
thanks.
can I reuse the bolts or nuts that attach the pickup tube to the block? or do I have to replace them?
thanks.
07-22-2013, 08:16 PM
#3
Three Wheelin'
I second Van's comment about reusing the mounting bolts.
You may also want to get the drain tube (I don't recall the technical name) that bolts to the pickup tube. The strap that runs between these two parts is what typically fails first. Once the strap breaks, the tubes are detached and can move more freely, causing the work hardening and eventual tube failure to progress quickly.
You may also want to get the drain tube (I don't recall the technical name) that bolts to the pickup tube. The strap that runs between these two parts is what typically fails first. Once the strap breaks, the tubes are detached and can move more freely, causing the work hardening and eventual tube failure to progress quickly.
07-23-2013, 08:35 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
If you spent the money to buy a new pickup tube, good for you! A wise decision.
Agree with others about the bolts. And you'll want to get the gasket for the pickup tube. The existing gasket will be hardened from heat and age. The drain tube does or does not require a gasket, depending on the vintage of the engine. Call the guys at Paragon with your engine serial number and they can tell you for sure. Engine serial number is on the side of the block, buried in behind the oil filler assembly.
As Van says, one of the attaching nuts belongs to the main girdle stud, with the other being a smaller bolt or stud. If I recall, the small one can only be accessed with an open end wrench. Unless you use a crows foot, I don't think you can get a torque wrench on it. I just use the "educated right arm" tool to set the torque on that one.
If you haven't already, read the shop manual about the nuts for the rod bearing caps. Porsche substituted a serated nut at some point that they recommend for all engines. It has a different torque requirement than the old nuts.
I know its a real pain in the *** if you're working with the engine in the car but it never hurts to check the fit of the new bearings with plastigage. You never know if a DPO (dreaded previous owner) did something weird like put in one or more set of oversized bearings on a ground rod journal. Remember the thread a while back about the guy with low oil pressure that found out he'd put standard bearings on a ground journal?
Agree with others about the bolts. And you'll want to get the gasket for the pickup tube. The existing gasket will be hardened from heat and age. The drain tube does or does not require a gasket, depending on the vintage of the engine. Call the guys at Paragon with your engine serial number and they can tell you for sure. Engine serial number is on the side of the block, buried in behind the oil filler assembly.
As Van says, one of the attaching nuts belongs to the main girdle stud, with the other being a smaller bolt or stud. If I recall, the small one can only be accessed with an open end wrench. Unless you use a crows foot, I don't think you can get a torque wrench on it. I just use the "educated right arm" tool to set the torque on that one.
If you haven't already, read the shop manual about the nuts for the rod bearing caps. Porsche substituted a serated nut at some point that they recommend for all engines. It has a different torque requirement than the old nuts.
I know its a real pain in the *** if you're working with the engine in the car but it never hurts to check the fit of the new bearings with plastigage. You never know if a DPO (dreaded previous owner) did something weird like put in one or more set of oversized bearings on a ground rod journal. Remember the thread a while back about the guy with low oil pressure that found out he'd put standard bearings on a ground journal?
07-23-2013, 09:31 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
Thanks. Blow up a few engines and you either learn to work on them or else. 
Trending Topics
07-23-2013, 11:34 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
This thread has a picture of one dry fit.
07-25-2013, 09:19 AM
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
If you spent the money to buy a new pickup tube, good for you! A wise decision.
Agree with others about the bolts. And you'll want to get the gasket for the pickup tube. The existing gasket will be hardened from heat and age. The drain tube does or does not require a gasket, depending on the vintage of the engine. Call the guys at Paragon with your engine serial number and they can tell you for sure. Engine serial number is on the side of the block, buried in behind the oil filler assembly.
As Van says, one of the attaching nuts belongs to the main girdle stud, with the other being a smaller bolt or stud. If I recall, the small one can only be accessed with an open end wrench. Unless you use a crows foot, I don't think you can get a torque wrench on it. I just use the "educated right arm" tool to set the torque on that one.
If you haven't already, read the shop manual about the nuts for the rod bearing caps. Porsche substituted a serated nut at some point that they recommend for all engines. It has a different torque requirement than the old nuts.
I know its a real pain in the *** if you're working with the engine in the car but it never hurts to check the fit of the new bearings with plastigage. You never know if a DPO (dreaded previous owner) did something weird like put in one or more set of oversized bearings on a ground rod journal. Remember the thread a while back about the guy with low oil pressure that found out he'd put standard bearings on a ground journal?
Agree with others about the bolts. And you'll want to get the gasket for the pickup tube. The existing gasket will be hardened from heat and age. The drain tube does or does not require a gasket, depending on the vintage of the engine. Call the guys at Paragon with your engine serial number and they can tell you for sure. Engine serial number is on the side of the block, buried in behind the oil filler assembly.
As Van says, one of the attaching nuts belongs to the main girdle stud, with the other being a smaller bolt or stud. If I recall, the small one can only be accessed with an open end wrench. Unless you use a crows foot, I don't think you can get a torque wrench on it. I just use the "educated right arm" tool to set the torque on that one.
If you haven't already, read the shop manual about the nuts for the rod bearing caps. Porsche substituted a serated nut at some point that they recommend for all engines. It has a different torque requirement than the old nuts.
I know its a real pain in the *** if you're working with the engine in the car but it never hurts to check the fit of the new bearings with plastigage. You never know if a DPO (dreaded previous owner) did something weird like put in one or more set of oversized bearings on a ground rod journal. Remember the thread a while back about the guy with low oil pressure that found out he'd put standard bearings on a ground journal?
shouldn't the old bearings all be stamped with std? that's what I'm going to check for. if they are all stamped with std then I won't plastigauge and I'll just put the new standard bearings in.
07-29-2013, 02:20 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Yes Sir, you are correct. I've got an old pair of bearings here and they are stamped STD. It's pretty hard to read but there is you know what you're looking for. You learn something new every day
So what if they stamped with some German version of the acronym for Standard?
So what if they stamped with some German version of the acronym for Standard?
