Tabor

This nut will not break loose. Worst of all, it is doing this to my tools.

What do I need to do to get it loose? Liquid wrench and a 4 foot cheater sure didn't work. Would heat help? If so, do I heat it and immidiatly try to break it loose, or do I wait for it to cool again.

Thanks You

PS- In the picture it is labeled as a bolt, but it is really a nut.

Steve Lavigne

WOW!

Possibly reverse threaded?

adrial

I believe heat it, then try to break it lose before it cools.
I've read stories of people using a 1" drive snap-on ratchet and breaking the socket....
An impact wrench might help?
Also something to try is borrowing a huge wrench from a truck repair place. While you're there might as well borrow a huge torque wrench too...I believe that nut gets torqued down to around 350 lb/ft after you get it off.

Good luck!

BTW I am 95% sure its not reverse threaded. If it is nobody that's done the job ever mentioned it, so I doubt it is reverse threated.

newoldguy

I would try some spray stuff called PB Blaster. Its a "catalytic" agent that really works on rusted on stuff like you're trying to deal with. Give it a try, can't hurt anything. Let us know how you solve the problem.

IceShark

Yeah, that is the rear "axle" nut which is socked on with some looney high torque - I want to say 400 ft lbs, but that can't be right. I do know it is a lot more than my biggest torque wrench which goes to 150. Combine that with corrosion and it may as well be welded on.

An impact wrench usually will do it but you probably don't have air tools. I'm not so sure heating it would be the right approach yet because you will destroy temper. There is a manual impact type driver that you can buy for 20 bucks or so. Get one with at least a 1/2" drive (1" would be better) and a *good* socket like SnapOn Tools. Then you whack the end of it with a heavy hammer. Hard!

This still leaves you with the problem of re-torquing the nut when you put it back together. Which means you have to borrow a monster wrench or do a cheater bar extension for your normal torque wrench and calculate out the leverage increase. You really need some first class tools for that sucker due to the high torque.

As I said, I forget what the specs are but they are high, so search around or call the dealer for the torque.

EDIT: no, it is not reverse thread, at least mine wasn't. It is just on there *REALLY* tight. And one other thing, make sure you don't knock your car off its jack stands doing this ..... I nearly did.

Tabor

It is 500nm or 368ft/lb. But that is almost exactly the same torque as my body weight out 22in.

I will try to get the manual impact type and a BIG hammer.

Edit- Or maybe invest in some air tools. Thanks Guys!

Edit- It is not reverse threaded, I checked.

Tabor

A question about impact wrenches: If I get a numatic impact wrench rated at 625ft/lb, should this work? The magic of the impact wrench is how fast it goes on/off, right?

Also, should 30gal 6hp single stage compressor be enough to run it? Thank you, I am new to air tools.

IceShark

Yeah, a 625 should do it fine. 30 gallon 150 psi might be a little small for extended shop use but will do this trick no problem. It is the sharp slam of the impact wrench engaging that does the trick of breaking the nut free. Just make sure you don't sock the nut back down with the impact wrench, even if you are using torque sticks. I don't trust them.

Getting an air set-up might be a little overkill for just this project so make sure you really want it. And a larger tank is good so the compressor doesn't cycle as much. And make sure you get a water seperator otherwise the inside of the tank will rust out and maybe explode on you 10 years down the road, though 150 psi shouldn't be too bad. It is those 3000 psi tanks going off that is a disaster. Those can take a building down and toss stuff blocks away.

Bob S. 1984 Silver

I've removed a few. Whacking on the wrench with enough force will break the wrench. I have had some success doing it the "nice and easy" way. Soak the nut well with a high quality penetrating oil. Using an impact socket and a 3/4 drive slide bar with a 3 foot length of 3/4 iron pipe over it. The spindle must be kept from turning, a long prybar between two of the wheel studs will work (put nuts on the studs to help prevent the prybar from moving). The thread is a standard right handed thread. Make certain the car is well supported. Toss the wheel that has been removed under the axle assembly for safety's sake. Place the socket on the nut with the pipe at about the 9:30 position. Step on the pipe ablut 3/4 of the way out. Gently bounce up and down. The nut should start to move. Reinstallation does NOT require the high torque. I have a torque wrench that tops out at 250. It is sufficient. I haven't had a failure yet.

P.S. Buy Craftsman or sother tools with a lifetime warantee. Anything broken, no problemo......

Good luck

Bob S.

Tabor

Don't worry, I have wanted air tools for a long time. I have seen how much faster they can make a job go.

Thank You for all your help and Happy Holidays!

Kierf - ¿§?

Let me know how it goes, Tabor. I have the same problem with my '79 Prelude. The front CV joint broke, and I can't replace it because I can't get the spindle nut off. I've tried heating it with a MAP gas torch, a 100 ft-lb electric impact wrench, a breaker bar and whatnot. Nothing.

Danno

While 350lb*ft might be the spec torque to tighten down the nut on installation, with use and corrosion, it's going to take a lot more than that to remove it. I broke a couple of 3/4" drive sockets and breaker-bars using a 5ft pipe extension. Stood on it at the end with my 180lbs hopping up and down, SNAP!!!

Finally took the easy way out and brought it to a tire shop that deal with diesel trucks. At first, they tried the normal impact wrenches for lugnuts, HAH, the nut just laughed at them! Then they brought out this monster impact wrench that runs off 150psi and it took TWO guys to carry it and hold it up to the wheel. Even then, they had to pound at it for a good 2-3minutes before it broke loose.

Then they re-tightened it down to 300lb*ft so I could drive it home. There I unscrewed it with a 1/2" drive socket and 1.5" breaker-bar one-handed, no problem. So don't waste our time, just have some guys with the heavy-duty tools do the hard work for ya!

jim968

OK, guys... here's the "method of last resort" for these big ******..but it works, 100% of the time, and requires almost no muscle. But you do have to buy a replacement nut.

Use a Dremel or similar tool to grind a small flat on the top or front surface of the nut facing you, perpendicular to the threads (assuming it's a round-shouldered nut).

Center-punch on this flat with a good sharp punch. (If the nut already has a suitable flat surface, ignore the grinding step.)

Drill with a small bit, maybe 1/16" at the largest. Stay in the nut, parallel to the threaded shaft. Stay outside of the threads, in the "meat" of the nut. Drill all the way thru to the surface the nut is tightened against.

Depending on the quality & size of the nut, you may need to do this twice, 180 degrees apart.

Now, being careful of the male threads, use a chisel & hammer to split the nut at the hole.

A lot of these large nuts have a pretty high surface hardness, and will drill slowly at first; the inner material will likely be a lot softer, so once you get your hole started, it'll go quicker.

Yep, it really works. Takes about 15 minutes per nut, and no strained muscles or bad language. I dreamed this method up about 25 years ago, when stymied by the rear axle nuts on an air-cooled VW & my lack of large tools & money....

Jim, sometimes too lazy for words...

IceShark

Well if you are going to wreck the nut there is a cheap tool made that is sort of like a guillotine that you clamp on the nut and put a wrench on it and it cuts the nut in half like your cold chisel. It is easier to control so you don't hurt the threads.

early85944

Before you get out all the heavy equipment, first I would go get a product called "Tap Magic". The stuff is an incredible penetrant oil that will help you loosen the bolt. I would then get a cheater bar an turn the nut back and forth. It probably will not move but it will help the oil do its job. Let it sit for ten minutes. Come back to it and try and break it loose with the help of a cheater bar. When I took that bolt off, I had about five feet of extension on the end of a rachet. When it broke loose I was positive I had broke something but furtonately I didn't. GOOD LUCK!