SGOGT4

I had a similar problem when I was replacing my exhaust. My solution, after breaking two wrenches was to go to Home Depot and buy a plumbers blow torch and heat the nut/bolt up. This broke apart the corrosion and allowed for a relatively easy removal.

slevy951

Tabor-

My mechanic just did the rear wheel bearings on my car. He had the same problem. He ended up heating it for 20 min with a torch and using a 6 ft pipe on his breaker bar (that broke like yours) to get it off. Luckily, he let me repay him for the breaker bar in beer!

Mike B

An impact wrench worked great for me

jim968

Shark, yep. But I've pretty much always got a drill & bits. And the nutcracker tool won't always work on a nut in a recessed hole, or a really large nut.

Jim, going nuts; must be the season...

pete944

VW beetles have a similar setup to 944's. There is a special tool for removing VW rear axle nuts (and it's cheap!!) It's basically a large flat iron piece that fits over the nut with a tab that has a square hole for a half inch breaker bar. You only use the breaker bar to keep the tool on the nut and you use a large heavy hammer to pound on the tab. You'll work up a sweat, but it does loosen the nut. The only catch is I'm not positive that the 944 nut is the same size as the VW's. Performance Products has the tool for $11.95 but if you have a shop in your area that specializes in VW's they may loan it to you.
Hope this helps.

Pete

Hans

Hi Tabor
Know these basterds from my VW days.
Used to go at it with an home made tool: 2 meters of 2 inch scaffolding pipe, welded to a solid square block. On the square block, an (first class) six sided socket was welded.
Now you have the lever you need to get the nut moving.
Make sure the car is supported very well: jack stands AND some wooden blocks under the floor pan is minimum.
Use the bar in downward direction only, so put it at 9 hr (or 3 hr) and step (jump if you like)on it and push down!!
Re-tightening at 350 ftlbs or so: just get at it the same way in opposite direction and put your weight on the lever.

The nut is one time use only.
If you take a closer look at the nut, you see that the cylindrical section (extending the hex) is flattened as if it has been pressed. This takes care of the locking and allows the nut to be normal (right) threaded for both left and right shaft.
So Jim's solution of weakening and "killing" might be the best for you at this point in time.
Buying an air tool for just this one nut seems a bit overdone, you need a big one that is less effective (too big) for the normal maintenance works.
Look at it from the bright side: you will be relieved from early morning exercises for the next few days
Take care

Tabor

Thank You for all of the advice. I will make sure to let you guys know what ends up working for me. Right now I am leaning towards taking it to a shop to be loosened, then driving it home (after apropriot re-torquing of corse).

IceShark

Gee, Hans, I didn't remember that the nut was a lock type. Was about 8 years ago that I took it off ..... but I don't recall that. I remember my nephew was about 2 years old and had really small hands to get into something and saved me a lot of time. His Mom has allways been leary of me since. If that is the case crack the nut off without heat.

Well at least my reused nut hasn't backed off. Guess when I replace the rear rotors I will get new nuts.

keith

TABOR - READ THIS:

First, quit buying cheap tools.
Second, go invest in a whatever-mm box-end wrench to fit that bolt (30?, 32?) Craftsman quality is fine, that is what I have.

spray some Liquid Wrench on it.
Put the wrench on it, PUT YOUR FLOOR JACK UNDER THE HANDLE OF THE WRENCH (wrench more or less parallel to ground) and jack up until car begins to lift. (be sure wrench is positioned so that when it loosens, the handle/jack plate won't scrape fender)

One of two things will happen: either the weight of the car will loosen the nut, or you will go get you r little torch and heat one of the flats of the nut, until the weight of the car loosens the nut.

You don't need to lift the car completely off the ground.

This works for me EVERY TIME. Work smarter, not harder.

Tabor

Keith, thanks. I though I was working smarter when I got myself a 4' cheater bar. Most of my tools are Craftsman. I broke my craftsman 1/2" drive rachet trying to get this thing off (lifetime warranty, no big deal). Thank You so much for the floor jack/wrech idea, I hadn't thought of it. I will try it. I can't imagine it now working.

I will let everyone know how this turns out, I promise.

keith

Tabor - I usually stay away from that swivel head breaker bar - It is a bad idea by design...

I try to buy really good wrenches through 19mm, then craftsman above that, I also try (I say try because tools are expensive) to buy really good socket wrenches, but I buy Craftsman sockets because I find that they ALL break anyway.

The WORST tool I have ever owned is ANY brand 12pt allen (or triple-square?). Snap-on, MAC, Craftsman, they all twist in a very short time...

The Jack process is my gift to you for the free rims! Thanks from me...

eworkley

Tabor, I would stay away from heat at all cost's. It can and will transfer to the surrounding area's and can cause parts to warp or harden. I would also suggest soaking with PB Blaster, best stuff I've ever used. You might also try a tool that you put a socket on one end then hit the other end with a large hammer. It works on the principal of an impact wrench each time you hit it. Sorry I can't remember what it's called. I also think these are "one time" nuts. good luck.

eworkley
87944S

Tabor

Just for the record, it is a one-time-use self-locking nut. Source: Porsche Factory Workshop Manual.

keith

You heat the triling arms to remove the bearings. One time use nut. Not sure why you wouldn't heat it.
?

Tabor

My reasons:

1. The hub.

2. The axle ?stud/bolt?. <-- mainly this

3. The wheel studs on the hub.