F40LM

I only got mine last year and love it. I have had the pedal pump way take 5 min or two hours. With power bleeder, always it takes about 5 min.

whalebird

I like to replace the two together. However, I did just the slave after I damaged the last one not paying attention when installing my engine a couple of years back. It wasn't that old so I feel safe. The trick is to bleed the clutch when you do the brakes every year and these things last for a LONG time.
As for the motive bleeder...it's worth it. I just fill up the resevoir and not the bleeder. When I pump it up it works as it should, without the mess. Just keep a close eye on the fluid in the resevoir and refill if you do somehow go through an entire resevoir full of fluid in the bleeding process.
if you are having difficulty getting it bled, open the bleeder on the slave and let it gravity bleed a little while edit:tighten the bleeder. Then remove the slave from the bell housing and compress the plunger inward all the way by hand slowly and then let it rebound slowly. Do this with the fluid line fitting on the slave elevated from the rest of the slave so any air will be forced up through the line/master and resevoir first. when you let the plunger out it sucks all fluid back into itself as long as your resevoir is topped off.
Casey, you should be able to find a replacement fluid line from Pelican or the like unless you just want a full length hard line between the master/slave. It seems this would make replacement of the slave in the future difficult.
Hope all is well and let me know if I can help.

Also...replace the blue fluid line between the resevoir/master while your in there. If you need a piece, let me know. Do NOT use any kind of black fuel line.

thirdgenbird

Perfect timing. I just came inside from removing the whole hydraulic system. I plan to replace both cylinders.

I pulled the slave cylinder apart and it is apparent the wiper seal is shot. The bore looks fine though. I am leaning toward rebuilding in myself and saving some cash. It's such a simple assembly I'm not sure why it wouldn't be effective.

I don't want a full hard line. I was thinking a braided stainless line like I have seen on some other cars. This should make it much easier to work with. This morning I was leaning toward just an OEM replacement for the upper line, but as of right now, one of the flare fittings on the $100 hard line is seized and unusable. If qui can't get it to break free, the SS route will be the cheapest option.

The blue line is off and needs replaced. It looks like most distributors for the cylinders also have the proper blue line so I think i am covered there. Do you recommend standard hose clamps to reattach it?

thirdgenbird

Found a source for braided SS line. Very tempted as it is about $100 cheaper than replacing the OEM line. Any reason to avoid this route? Sounds like blending is easier too, you can do it above the car.

FRporscheman

I was thinking of getting this line, is there anything wrong with FTE?
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...@Clutch%20Hose

whalebird, thanks for the tip - I'm going to try using the Motive with no fluid in it next time.

thirdgenbird

FTE is OEM.

I would go that route, but one end of my hard line is damaged. Those appear to be $100 for the NA. A full braided stainless line that replaces both is $20.

DSMblue

I looked up the hard line on ecs, for the 944 it is $18.01. I would imagine that is the same for the 924S. If the combo rubber/hard line is OK, then this would appear to be a good answer.

thirdgenbird

Odd, I've seen several places list it around $100-104

Thanks for the lead. I thought that was way out of line.

thirdgenbird

What did you search to get that one? It is a 951 part number. The part number from PET for a NA 944 and 924s is 94442309100. This is $100 almost everywhere.

I can't get the 95142309111 number to show up on ECS without manually searching it. Based off my limited knowledge, I think this is a completely different line and routing. Not sure if it will work...

The same vendors I'm showing the 944 number at $100 have the 951 number around $20. I guess it pays to have a 951

FRporscheman

Oh, you need to replace a hard line, gotcha.

The late 944s and 951s have the clutch line going over the brake MC and along the firewall. The early 944s (and probably the 924S's) have the line going under the brake MC. You could buy a used early hard line for pretty cheap (Lart, etc), or you could convert to the later style, which should be a simple swap but I've never tried it.

mikemyers924s

Edit! I have no idea how this post ended up in your thread Casey, it was supposed to be it's own thread. Sorry!!!

My front passenger side damper is completely shot. I would really like to have the car driveable again as soon as I can(since I JUST finished a very drawn out clutch replacement), but I don't HAVE to get it running any time soon.
Koni will rebuild my front dampers, but their website says it will take 3-4 weeks and cost varies. Has anyone had their's rebuild lately, what did it cost?

The other option is to buy some new koni sport struts from Paragon at $266 for two.
So, does it make sense cost, time, and quality wise to rebuild the current struts, or should I just buy new?
Thanks for your input!

thirdgenbird

10-4

Nearly 48 hours in PB blaster and one of the flared ends is still completely seized.

I've debated switching to. The 951 style line (if it fits) or going used, but both options are still more expensive than using a braided stainless brake line.

thirdgenbird

GET OFF MY LAWN!

(Its ok, we know each other)

thirdgenbird

PM DSMblue. He may have some info for you on rebuilding konis. Super nice guy. Another one of the locals.

DSMblue

Casey,

I got it out of the PET for my car. It is #23 in the picture.