How to remove side molding without destroying paint
#2
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I just repainted my rub strips on the 928 while still on the cra and I believe the 944 is fastened the same. I only needed to get a little seperation for masking but I think this will help. You want to go over the seams with a sharp tool like a razor first to make sure no paint is connecting the molding to the body. After that get a plastic trim removal kit from any auto parts store. I got mine at Menards. Slowly and carefully work the molding loose. I think the chances of completely removing them without any damage is a toss up.
#4
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There's a plastic rivet on the back of the doors that needs to be punched out before you can remove the molding from the doors.
Edit- Here's a pic of the rivet
![](http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q150/jmtrotz/IMG_20130409_201325_zps84924762.jpg)
Not trying to hijack the thread here, but what's the point of the vent on the back of the door?
Edit- Here's a pic of the rivet
![](http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q150/jmtrotz/IMG_20130409_201325_zps84924762.jpg)
Not trying to hijack the thread here, but what's the point of the vent on the back of the door?
#6
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You could drill it out. You could also take a punch and a hammer and tap it out. In my experience with plastic rivets a tap or two with a punch and hammer gets them out instantly and cleanly, especially if you want to reuse it (if it's the reusable type).
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#8
Burning Brakes
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Hmm, is that suppose to a rivet? Mine are screws....
In a book I have from the dealer it explaines that the vents are for airing out the body panels to keep them from rusting. I'll try and get a pic of book.
In a book I have from the dealer it explaines that the vents are for airing out the body panels to keep them from rusting. I'll try and get a pic of book.
#9
Rennlist Member
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Not sure about the door vents, but most cars have vents in the trunk area to release the air when you slam the trunk ****. So it doesn't come rushing into the passenger compartment. Same idea maybe?
#10
RL Community Team
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The front and rear smaller moldings are held on only with adhesive, and the door molding has the single rivet and adhesive. Use a plastic tool and be very patient. If you have a heat gun and know how to use it without damaging paint, the heat will help soften the adhesive to ease removal of the moldings.
#11
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I pulled mine off last week to prep the car for paint. I used a heat gun as they were stuck on pretty good. I had screws so just unscrewed them and pulled. Whoever painted my car in the past did a poor job and just cleared over some of the original adhesive. Don't do that. I'm not putting them back on so I have to take the old paint off to get rid of the painted over adhesive.
To remove the adheasive left on the car I like to use a rubber eraser wheel to get the bulk off. After that I'll use some 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover to wipe off anything that's left. I do this on new cars all the time with fresh paint.
It should only hurt the paint if you scrape it with something metallic, burn the paint off with the heat gun, or if the moldings were applied over fresh paint and the tape is bonded into the paint (like my rear emblem was).
To remove the adheasive left on the car I like to use a rubber eraser wheel to get the bulk off. After that I'll use some 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover to wipe off anything that's left. I do this on new cars all the time with fresh paint.
It should only hurt the paint if you scrape it with something metallic, burn the paint off with the heat gun, or if the moldings were applied over fresh paint and the tape is bonded into the paint (like my rear emblem was).