Engine dies when opening throttle
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Manassas, VA
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Whoo!! I made it to work!!!
my commute is about 25 miles each way... Being Friday, I decided to take my 89 944 since traffic would be light!
About 10 minutes into my drive, I went to accelerate from a traffic light, and the car bogged severely! If I feathered the gas (10% throttle), I could keep my speed constant, but anything more than that and it would immediately bog.... It did this for about 5 minutes... Playing around with the gas pedal, I finally just floored it to see what would happen, and after about a 1-2 second delay, you felt the power come back on... Did this a few times, then the problem went away....
During lunch, I'm going to pop the hood and take a peek.. Going to check all the sensor connections I can reach, etc... Any glaring culprits you guys can think of?
my commute is about 25 miles each way... Being Friday, I decided to take my 89 944 since traffic would be light!
About 10 minutes into my drive, I went to accelerate from a traffic light, and the car bogged severely! If I feathered the gas (10% throttle), I could keep my speed constant, but anything more than that and it would immediately bog.... It did this for about 5 minutes... Playing around with the gas pedal, I finally just floored it to see what would happen, and after about a 1-2 second delay, you felt the power come back on... Did this a few times, then the problem went away....
During lunch, I'm going to pop the hood and take a peek.. Going to check all the sensor connections I can reach, etc... Any glaring culprits you guys can think of?
#2
Proprietoristicly Refined
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Since you are at work and have limited tools & parts...
Swap the DME/FUEL pump relay or use your 3 wire jumper (Clarks)
Gently tap the DME computer.
Wiggle the DME wire harness
Check the battery connections---the small 3 wires ---make sure tight.
Check the connection to the Reference sensor. Check the sensor wire for cracks.
Check the AFM connection.
Make sure the distributer cap is on tight.
Make sure the spark plug wires are not shorting out on the frame/engine.
Loose rotor?
Call AAA
GL
J_AZ
Swap the DME/FUEL pump relay or use your 3 wire jumper (Clarks)
Gently tap the DME computer.
Wiggle the DME wire harness
Check the battery connections---the small 3 wires ---make sure tight.
Check the connection to the Reference sensor. Check the sensor wire for cracks.
Check the AFM connection.
Make sure the distributer cap is on tight.
Make sure the spark plug wires are not shorting out on the frame/engine.
Loose rotor?
Call AAA
GL
J_AZ
#3
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I would look for connections to the air flow meter both electrical and the boot or the TPS. Low fuel pressure, bad coil wire. I'm sure other people will come up with some other ideas.
#5
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I had severe, intermittent hesitation when the air was cold and the engine warm.
Chased it for years, ended up being AFM.
Check its connections, and resistance vs. flap angle, and look at the tracks for wear. Mine passed all these, though.
Unfortunately, if it's intermittent, swapping with a known good unit takes forever to know if you've fixed it, but if you can get your hands on an AFM, I'd probably go ahead and do that nevertheless.
Chased it for years, ended up being AFM.
Check its connections, and resistance vs. flap angle, and look at the tracks for wear. Mine passed all these, though.
Unfortunately, if it's intermittent, swapping with a known good unit takes forever to know if you've fixed it, but if you can get your hands on an AFM, I'd probably go ahead and do that nevertheless.