What to do first? Oil pan gasket - rod bearings or crankshaft seals
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
What to do first? Oil pan gasket - rod bearings or crankshaft seals
So I was 100% sure that the oil leaking was from the oil pan gasket, and I've removed everything under, only thing left is the cross member removal. Then, having for space to look around, I realized that there a lot of oil-dirt, above the crankshaft. So now I have 2 major repairs.... oil pan + changing the lower crankshaft seal or anything above. It looks at the same time that I'm losing oil Above the crankshaft seal.
So at this point, I'm better taking everything apart to find the problem.
What should I do first? I've never done a timiimng belt job before. Should I leave all the belts as is, do the oil pan gasket and rod bearings job, THEN do the crankshaft seal job after?
I will need to rotate the engine to replace the bearings, and I don't want to lose my tdc adjustement.
Help!
So at this point, I'm better taking everything apart to find the problem.
What should I do first? I've never done a timiimng belt job before. Should I leave all the belts as is, do the oil pan gasket and rod bearings job, THEN do the crankshaft seal job after?
I will need to rotate the engine to replace the bearings, and I don't want to lose my tdc adjustement.
Help!
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks, that's what I'm doing. The crossmember is finally off, will do the oil pan this week, reinstall it, then the front seals.
Scrary job when you've never done it
Scrary job when you've never done it
Last edited by eric951turbo; 05-13-2013 at 11:09 AM.
#5
Burning Brakes
Yep do rod bearings, pickup tube seal , oil pump drive sleeve and o ring, front main seal, oil pan gasket, balance shaft outer seals and inner orings(I guarantee the lower inner b/s oring is leaking) that takes care of the block. You also have a cam seal and sleeve, a thick oring behind the distributor housing as well as a small oil seal spacer behind it. Each drive sleeve must have a nylon onion skin behind it , and lastly a new camshaft bolt. These are optional but will completely renew the front end seals minus the water pump. If you were in San Diego I would gladly be of service or assistance to you. Get a new timing belt and tensioner , and a b/s belt while your in there. At the least get the t belt .
#6
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why do you suggest that he chnage the rod bearings? because he already has the oil pan off?
my 944 has a small leak on my oil pan thats why I ask. after I put in 5w30 oil, coincidence? im not sure.
my 944 has a small leak on my oil pan thats why I ask. after I put in 5w30 oil, coincidence? im not sure.
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#8
Drifting
The #2 rod bearing has a history of being galled if the car is driven aggressively on curved courses and the oil pickup is starved from oil slosh in the pan. Since you've got the pan off, it's a good time to inspect (replace) the bearings and rod bolts, too. Also look at the pickup for cracks. WYIT (while you're in there) is the mantra that applies on this car. It's an easy precautionary inspection procedure and worth the extra 1/2 hour and little expense. Also, Eric, I suggest you inspect (replace) the rear cork camshaft seal. This is a common source of oil leaks and is a cheap and easy fix. Just don't torque it down tight. Put a little Grease on the surface of the cork before installation.