TRANSMISSION OIL CHANGE
#2
If you are talking about the differential, you'll need a 17mm allen head socket. I bought mine from Tweeks for $25, and a 1/2" breaker bar from Sears for $15.
I tried to use an allen wrench from Sears, but it wasn't long enough, so I couldn't get any leverage. (No, I didn't have a pipe or anything to rig a longer handle).
I don't have the exact weight numbers on the fluid, but I recall not being able to find the exact weight gear oil. I want to think that 90W is recommended, and all I could find at the local car parts places was 80W. You may have better luck getting the correct weight at the dealer - obviously.
I tried to use an allen wrench from Sears, but it wasn't long enough, so I couldn't get any leverage. (No, I didn't have a pipe or anything to rig a longer handle).
I don't have the exact weight numbers on the fluid, but I recall not being able to find the exact weight gear oil. I want to think that 90W is recommended, and all I could find at the local car parts places was 80W. You may have better luck getting the correct weight at the dealer - obviously.
#4
Professor of Pending Projects
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Make sure you can remove the fill plug before getting the drain plug out. I have my car's transmission out and I can get the @@#%$#@ fill plug out. I bought a new plug but have yet to figure out how to remove the old one.
#5
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Paul,
Another quick tip--make sure you can remove the fill plug BEFORE you remove the drain plug--these can be tough buggers, and it sucks to find out if your plug is seized AFTER you have drained your oil.
Eric---"Your scheme is up Ali Ben Schemer"--Speed Racer or my favorite(from the same episode)--"The secret film filmed secretly" gotta love the translations.
Another quick tip--make sure you can remove the fill plug BEFORE you remove the drain plug--these can be tough buggers, and it sucks to find out if your plug is seized AFTER you have drained your oil.
Eric---"Your scheme is up Ali Ben Schemer"--Speed Racer or my favorite(from the same episode)--"The secret film filmed secretly" gotta love the translations.
#6
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Jaime
[quote] ...but have yet to figure out how to remove the old one. <hr></blockquote>
Had the same problem (with the tranny still in the car....)
Used an impact wrench, one of these manual ones you need to hit with an hammer.
I needed to take my left rear wheel off, and then piled up all the 1/2"ratchet extentions I could lay my hands on to get the impact wrench outside the fender.
It needed only about 5 moderate blows with a big hammer to come loose.
Be sure you do not seize the thread. If you do, you have a problem!!
Paul:
I found two different sizes: 17 mm hex and 17.5 mm hex.
If you cant get the proper tool, you might want to try an extended (double length) nut from the local hardware store or some bar stock hex from the local machine shop.
This together with the standard 17 mm socket / ratchet kit would help you out.
Oil requirement is 2 litre (by manual, I got close to 3 litre) SAE 80, GL-4.
You may want to search the archives on this, there is a lot.
Take care
[quote] ...but have yet to figure out how to remove the old one. <hr></blockquote>
Had the same problem (with the tranny still in the car....)
Used an impact wrench, one of these manual ones you need to hit with an hammer.
I needed to take my left rear wheel off, and then piled up all the 1/2"ratchet extentions I could lay my hands on to get the impact wrench outside the fender.
It needed only about 5 moderate blows with a big hammer to come loose.
Be sure you do not seize the thread. If you do, you have a problem!!
Paul:
I found two different sizes: 17 mm hex and 17.5 mm hex.
If you cant get the proper tool, you might want to try an extended (double length) nut from the local hardware store or some bar stock hex from the local machine shop.
This together with the standard 17 mm socket / ratchet kit would help you out.
Oil requirement is 2 litre (by manual, I got close to 3 litre) SAE 80, GL-4.
You may want to search the archives on this, there is a lot.
Take care
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#8
Professor of Pending Projects
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[quote]Originally posted by Hans:
<strong>...I found two different sizes: 17 mm hex and 17.5 mm hex....</strong><hr></blockquote>
That has to be the problem in my case... for the drain plug the 17mm works great. For the fill plug it strips. I will try your suggestion of the nut...
[quote]Originally posted by Hans:
<strong>...If you cant get the proper tool, you might want to try an extended (double length) nut from the local hardware store or some bar stock hex from the local machine shop.
....</strong><hr></blockquote>
Thanks!!
<strong>...I found two different sizes: 17 mm hex and 17.5 mm hex....</strong><hr></blockquote>
That has to be the problem in my case... for the drain plug the 17mm works great. For the fill plug it strips. I will try your suggestion of the nut...
[quote]Originally posted by Hans:
<strong>...If you cant get the proper tool, you might want to try an extended (double length) nut from the local hardware store or some bar stock hex from the local machine shop.
....</strong><hr></blockquote>
Thanks!!
#9
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Thaddeus - Your commnet about "crunchy first gear synchro" makes me wonder if Redline would help my situation. My first to second shift feels a little too,...well..."crunchy". There is no grinding or anything. It's just not as I think it should be. I expect a sort fo "snick-snick" as I go through the neutral gate and into second but instead there is a sort of slight confused feeling. Again, not grinding, but your word - muffled crunching. Is this what you had?
#10
Excuse my ignorance, but I have seen a few posts regarding the right weight. And it seems to depend on whether or not you have LSD. So, was LSD an option on an ’88 S and would it be listed on the option codes in the trunk?
If not how do I tell? Its up on jack stands for the winter (which I am still waiting for winter to come. WTF 50 degrees F in Feb. and my car is in storage <img src="graemlins/a_smil17.gif" border="0" alt="[blabla]" /> ). I saw someone mentioning turning one wheel and if the other spins I got it. Is this true?
Thanks,
Mark
If not how do I tell? Its up on jack stands for the winter (which I am still waiting for winter to come. WTF 50 degrees F in Feb. and my car is in storage <img src="graemlins/a_smil17.gif" border="0" alt="[blabla]" /> ). I saw someone mentioning turning one wheel and if the other spins I got it. Is this true?
Thanks,
Mark
#12
Drifting
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Crackhead944S,
If you turn one wheel and the other wheel turn in the same direction, you have a clutch type LSD.
If the other wheel turns in the oposite direction, you have an open differential or a Torsen differential (aftermarket for all but the 968).
If you turn one wheel and the other wheel turn in the same direction, you have a clutch type LSD.
If the other wheel turns in the oposite direction, you have an open differential or a Torsen differential (aftermarket for all but the 968).
#13
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[quote] If you turn one wheel and the other wheel turn in the same direction, you have a clutch type LSD. <hr></blockquote>
Would that be with the car in gear or in neutral - or does it even matter? <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
Would that be with the car in gear or in neutral - or does it even matter? <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
#15
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I just refilled my Non-LSD with the Redline MT-90 GL-4 spec. This appeared to be the better choice than the GL-5 spec 75W90 and 75W90NS -for non lsd). Supposedly the GL-5 spec can attack the bronze synchros although I believe Skip said many people use it anyway. Be sure to get 3 qts as the manual specifies only 2 but a bit more is required. Since I was at my mechanics anyway I had him change mine when it was up on the lift and actually only had 2 qts. My mechanic just topped it off with some regular 75W90 but this is kind of bothering me. Would you all change it again or not worry about it?
Cue visions of friction modifiers making like the cavity creeps....
Cue visions of friction modifiers making like the cavity creeps....