Which oil weight for my climate?
01-24-2012, 08:06 PM
#61
Drifting
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Well have a good time Allan & please stay away from those oil threads .Lol we have enougth reading material & video to last use at least a week.
Last edited by ernie9468; 02-04-2013 at 02:08 PM.
04-17-2012, 04:21 PM
#64
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"Tastes Great"
"Less Filling"
I'd rather have a beer and "watch" people discuss oil. 20W50 dino for me as synthetic is not as available as it once was in my neck of the woods..er..or should I say igloo!
"Less Filling"
I'd rather have a beer and "watch" people discuss oil. 20W50 dino for me as synthetic is not as available as it once was in my neck of the woods..er..or should I say igloo!
04-17-2012, 11:41 PM
#65
I'll bite...
Currently on Shell Rotella® T Triple Protection® 15W-40 conventional for the decent Zn & P levels...
I'm considering a switch to Shell Rotella® T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic for easier start-up and cold flow. (Richmond mornings running about 45F)
Shell's T6 site also shows a 36% improvement in soot control compared to Shell Rotella® T Triple Protection® 15W-40 and a higher flash point.
I've exhausted my internet search for the Zn & P levels of the synthetic..
Will be calling 1-800-SHELL in the morning..
With Shell's V-Power 93 Octane Fuel and Rotella Oils, the Red Baron will soon require a Shell Decal on the fender..
Currently on Shell Rotella® T Triple Protection® 15W-40 conventional for the decent Zn & P levels...
I'm considering a switch to Shell Rotella® T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic for easier start-up and cold flow. (Richmond mornings running about 45F)
Shell's T6 site also shows a 36% improvement in soot control compared to Shell Rotella® T Triple Protection® 15W-40 and a higher flash point.
I've exhausted my internet search for the Zn & P levels of the synthetic..
Will be calling 1-800-SHELL in the morning..
With Shell's V-Power 93 Octane Fuel and Rotella Oils, the Red Baron will soon require a Shell Decal on the fender..
04-18-2012, 02:24 AM
#66
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I'm going to wade into this... for advice... I need to do a change, my first with my 951.
It's been running Castrol 10W-30 synthetic from when I pulled it out of TN last fall (not sure prior to that in OH), been using this to top it up too (leaks badly, need the pan gasket done too but won't get to it for several more months). However, I'm a Mobil1 guy at heart and this car is now starting to bake in TX. And the temp gauge is usually at 2/3rds and will start overheating after 5 minutes idling hot in traffic at the lights (also topping up a coolant leak as regularly). Car is driven year-round, climate temps between 20-120*F. Can I do Mobil1 15W-40? I typically use MANN or Mahle filters (in my Audis) if those are OK.
It's been running Castrol 10W-30 synthetic from when I pulled it out of TN last fall (not sure prior to that in OH), been using this to top it up too (leaks badly, need the pan gasket done too but won't get to it for several more months). However, I'm a Mobil1 guy at heart and this car is now starting to bake in TX. And the temp gauge is usually at 2/3rds and will start overheating after 5 minutes idling hot in traffic at the lights (also topping up a coolant leak as regularly). Car is driven year-round, climate temps between 20-120*F. Can I do Mobil1 15W-40? I typically use MANN or Mahle filters (in my Audis) if those are OK.
04-18-2012, 07:34 AM
#68
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i also run Castrol GTX 20W50 year round. i don't drive my 944 in the winter months but if i did i would use 10W30 specifically for the winter.
04-19-2012, 12:22 AM
#69
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I was concerned after reading this thread that 20W-50 might be too heavy, though it'd be great if it would help mitigate my leaks a bit until I can get the pan gasket replaced.
For what it's worth, my lifters are pretty sticky- I'm assuming a thicker oil might help quiet down the clatter a bit (though perhaps this is another topic).
For what it's worth, my lifters are pretty sticky- I'm assuming a thicker oil might help quiet down the clatter a bit (though perhaps this is another topic).
04-19-2012, 12:51 AM
#70
I happened to pick up a case of Valvoline vr1 60w. I figure it would be good for my 951 track car during the texas summers. Any thoughts on that? my m3 uses 60w all the time (castrol)
04-19-2012, 01:18 AM
#71
Administrator - "Tyson"
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His comments about 15w-50 not being recommended today proves his lack of understanding between the difference of a modern engine and one designed in the 70's (which the 944 engines was).
I'll take the advice from 30+ years experienced Porsche engine builders over OD's internet research.
On that note, my 944S spun a rod bearing on 5w-50 full synthetic. Never raced, 95% highway driven (I was in contact with all 3 previous owners). Full service records from two different Porsche dealers etc.... Less than 120k on the odo. Never again.....
Unless you live in the snow belt and drive in winter, 15w-50 is your oil in a 944 or 928.
04-19-2012, 01:35 AM
#72
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Thank you much for the insight and experience- I'm with you on 30+ years of Porsche engineering. These are indeed old motors, so 15W-50 it is.
And holy postcount! The 35,000 I racked up in my old days as a mod on VWvortex are just nothing on that...!
And holy postcount! The 35,000 I racked up in my old days as a mod on VWvortex are just nothing on that...!
04-19-2012, 11:29 AM
#73
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aw jeeze
i use 0 weight oil almost year round... in the past 2 winters, i've run a mix of M1 0w40 and 0w50 and in the 3 previous winters, i ran straight 0w40, and changed over to 15w50 for the summers.... after 160 k miles (83 k miles, mine) the car has full power and hardly burns a drop of oil... (previous owner used M1 10w40)... the rod bearings fail, because the oem, bearing substrate is extremely weak. the bearings are so soft, they don't even put any measurable wear on our crankshafts !!!!!!
these myths....
your ultra-thick oil religion is one of those never-ending, tribal superstitions of the automotive world. the rod-bearings fail because of 20+ years of cold startups and oil starvation. not becuase running thin or thick oils at operating temps. if you're running the right oils, and you're seeing less than 4 bars at operating temp, that's when you know the engine's bearings and oil pumps need to be replaced.... best to have it done or simply move up to thicker oil... that's oil 101. but, when your engines are healthy, the best oils to run are 15w50 in warm weather, 5w50, and 0w50 in moderate cold weather, and 0w40 in severe winter weather.
you all, run whatever oils you want. it's not like the cars are worth much anyway. you can run your synthetics for 12 k miles with no worries... just change the filter at 1/2 intervals.
btw, Mobil 1's own website says run 0w40 year round for all our Porsche 4 cylinder engines.
but, even i go thicker in the summer.
we one. you lost. game over.
required reading; http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
proof that Bob the Oil Guy's website is based on scientific facts, not religious, tribal dogma....
http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm
3 important videos debunking the tribal Rennlist oil sillies...
.
these myths....
your ultra-thick oil religion is one of those never-ending, tribal superstitions of the automotive world. the rod-bearings fail because of 20+ years of cold startups and oil starvation. not becuase running thin or thick oils at operating temps. if you're running the right oils, and you're seeing less than 4 bars at operating temp, that's when you know the engine's bearings and oil pumps need to be replaced.... best to have it done or simply move up to thicker oil... that's oil 101. but, when your engines are healthy, the best oils to run are 15w50 in warm weather, 5w50, and 0w50 in moderate cold weather, and 0w40 in severe winter weather.
you all, run whatever oils you want. it's not like the cars are worth much anyway. you can run your synthetics for 12 k miles with no worries... just change the filter at 1/2 intervals.
btw, Mobil 1's own website says run 0w40 year round for all our Porsche 4 cylinder engines.
but, even i go thicker in the summer.
we one. you lost. game over.
required reading; http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
proof that Bob the Oil Guy's website is based on scientific facts, not religious, tribal dogma....
http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm
3 important videos debunking the tribal Rennlist oil sillies...
.
Last edited by odurandina; 04-19-2012 at 11:50 AM.
04-20-2012, 11:29 AM
#74
Rennlist Member
It isn't, ignore OD. If I could find a way to prevent him from posting in oil threads I would.
His comments about 15w-50 not being recommended today proves his lack of understanding between the difference of a modern engine and one designed in the 70's (which the 944 engines was).
I'll take the advice from 30+ years experienced Porsche engine builders over OD's internet research.
On that note, my 944S spun a rod bearing on 5w-50 full synthetic. Never raced, 95% highway driven (I was in contact with all 3 previous owners). Full service records from two different Porsche dealers etc.... Less than 120k on the odo. Never again.....
Unless you live in the snow belt and drive in winter, 15w-50 is your oil in a 944 or 928.
His comments about 15w-50 not being recommended today proves his lack of understanding between the difference of a modern engine and one designed in the 70's (which the 944 engines was).
I'll take the advice from 30+ years experienced Porsche engine builders over OD's internet research.
On that note, my 944S spun a rod bearing on 5w-50 full synthetic. Never raced, 95% highway driven (I was in contact with all 3 previous owners). Full service records from two different Porsche dealers etc.... Less than 120k on the odo. Never again.....
Unless you live in the snow belt and drive in winter, 15w-50 is your oil in a 944 or 928.
why 15w50 over 20w50??
04-20-2012, 12:36 PM
#75
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0w50 would be a far better choice in the cooler months.
i can easily demonstrate why.... but let's forget about the weather for just a moment...
we need at least a 40 to 50 weight oil but now with our aging bearings, i think that we can all agree that it would indeed be better to be running 50 weight oil more and 40 weight oil less... especially if you drive your cars hard. but there is a significant problem.... your 15w50 and 20w50 weight oils aren't very good at startup in fact they're rather bad, even at 70°F on a summer morning, a thinner oil like Mobil 1's 5w50 Rally Oil and 0w50 Racing Oil would be better.
if you were to talk to an engineer at Mobil they would tell you the exact same thing... run 0w oil all year round.
but, let's say tomorrow morning will be 40°F.... at this temp our 15w50 oils will be way too thick at startup. with a weight somewhere near about 300 at that temperature.... in fact the stuff is actually so bad, that when my engine's moving parts reach a temperature of 104 degrees, my oil will still be too thick, and it will have a viscosity of exactly 125 weight at that moment. still way too thick to properly lubricate our engines.... when this oil reaches full operating temperature, it will, of course, be doing a lot better... but damage could have already been done.....
in a moment, i'll compare oils. since so many of you all loathe Mobil 1 products, i'll use another popular oil as a demonstration.... a slightly thicker oil from Redline...
at 104°F and at our engine's operating temperatures. the numbers don't lie..... doesn't matter if you consult with Amsoil, Mobil 1, or Redline, or whomever. it will all be the same. do your re-checking, and see if bob the oil guy says anything different than what you'll discover by doing the research....
ok, right from their webpage;
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=6&pcid=21
viscosity grade Redline SAE 15W50
Vis @ 40°C (104°F): 138 ...... Vis @ 100°C (212°F): 19.6
the Redline is 138 weight oil at 104°F and 19.6 weight at 212°F (near operating temp)....
my Mobil 1 15w50 is similar at at 104°F having a viscosity of 125 weight
and 18.0 weight at 212°F (near operating temp)....
http://www.mobil.com/Pakistan-Englis...il1_5W-50.aspx
obviously, we like the 18.0 and 19.6 weights at running temp.
but we can get something very close with modern synthetic oil formulas ? of course.
here are some oils.... and how they compare to our 15w50 pillars of marble.
oil/SAE grade ............ visc @ 104 degrees Farenheit ............ visc @ running temp/212 F.
Redline 15w50 ....................... 138 ............................................... 19.6
Mobil 1 15w50 ....................... 125 ............................................... 18
Mobil 1 5w50 Rally Oil ............. 108 ............................................... 17.5
Mobil 1 0w50 Racing Oil ........... 100 ............................................... 17.2
you also see from this graphic why the 0w50 Racing Oil is clearly Mobil 1's best product, as it offers the most protection under maximum performance conditions while still being able to flow reasonably well in the cold.... funny, it's the oil they recommend for a race car yet doesn't offer as much viscosity as their 15w50... but, yet it's what they recommend for racing engines...
my solution would be to run a mix of 0w40 and either 5w50 or 0w50 in the winter, and a mix of the 5w50 or 0w50 and 15w50 in the summer.... you could also run 5w50 year round if you live in the south and maybe 0w50 year round if you live in the north.. the slightly higher cost for the 5w50 is worth it and you can order either hte rally or racing oils from their website.
the old way of running the 15w's and 20w oils in the winter is not the right way. these oils are silent engine bearing killers, and the automobile manufacturers have thousands of reports proving it.
the 0w40, 5w50 and 15w50 in all the above oils have plenty of zddp for most driving situations.
the Mobil 1 Racing oils have the maximum zddp @ 1,800 ppm.
i can easily demonstrate why.... but let's forget about the weather for just a moment...
we need at least a 40 to 50 weight oil but now with our aging bearings, i think that we can all agree that it would indeed be better to be running 50 weight oil more and 40 weight oil less... especially if you drive your cars hard. but there is a significant problem.... your 15w50 and 20w50 weight oils aren't very good at startup in fact they're rather bad, even at 70°F on a summer morning, a thinner oil like Mobil 1's 5w50 Rally Oil and 0w50 Racing Oil would be better.
if you were to talk to an engineer at Mobil they would tell you the exact same thing... run 0w oil all year round.
but, let's say tomorrow morning will be 40°F.... at this temp our 15w50 oils will be way too thick at startup. with a weight somewhere near about 300 at that temperature.... in fact the stuff is actually so bad, that when my engine's moving parts reach a temperature of 104 degrees, my oil will still be too thick, and it will have a viscosity of exactly 125 weight at that moment. still way too thick to properly lubricate our engines.... when this oil reaches full operating temperature, it will, of course, be doing a lot better... but damage could have already been done.....
in a moment, i'll compare oils. since so many of you all loathe Mobil 1 products, i'll use another popular oil as a demonstration.... a slightly thicker oil from Redline...
at 104°F and at our engine's operating temperatures. the numbers don't lie..... doesn't matter if you consult with Amsoil, Mobil 1, or Redline, or whomever. it will all be the same. do your re-checking, and see if bob the oil guy says anything different than what you'll discover by doing the research....
ok, right from their webpage;
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=6&pcid=21
viscosity grade Redline SAE 15W50
Vis @ 40°C (104°F): 138 ...... Vis @ 100°C (212°F): 19.6
the Redline is 138 weight oil at 104°F and 19.6 weight at 212°F (near operating temp)....
my Mobil 1 15w50 is similar at at 104°F having a viscosity of 125 weight
and 18.0 weight at 212°F (near operating temp)....
http://www.mobil.com/Pakistan-Englis...il1_5W-50.aspx
obviously, we like the 18.0 and 19.6 weights at running temp.
but we can get something very close with modern synthetic oil formulas ? of course.
here are some oils.... and how they compare to our 15w50 pillars of marble.
oil/SAE grade ............ visc @ 104 degrees Farenheit ............ visc @ running temp/212 F.
Redline 15w50 ....................... 138 ............................................... 19.6
Mobil 1 15w50 ....................... 125 ............................................... 18
Mobil 1 5w50 Rally Oil ............. 108 ............................................... 17.5
Mobil 1 0w50 Racing Oil ........... 100 ............................................... 17.2
you also see from this graphic why the 0w50 Racing Oil is clearly Mobil 1's best product, as it offers the most protection under maximum performance conditions while still being able to flow reasonably well in the cold.... funny, it's the oil they recommend for a race car yet doesn't offer as much viscosity as their 15w50... but, yet it's what they recommend for racing engines...
my solution would be to run a mix of 0w40 and either 5w50 or 0w50 in the winter, and a mix of the 5w50 or 0w50 and 15w50 in the summer.... you could also run 5w50 year round if you live in the south and maybe 0w50 year round if you live in the north.. the slightly higher cost for the 5w50 is worth it and you can order either hte rally or racing oils from their website.
the old way of running the 15w's and 20w oils in the winter is not the right way. these oils are silent engine bearing killers, and the automobile manufacturers have thousands of reports proving it.
the 0w40, 5w50 and 15w50 in all the above oils have plenty of zddp for most driving situations.
the Mobil 1 Racing oils have the maximum zddp @ 1,800 ppm.