Dave in Chicago

Just got back from DE at Road America. My oil consumption is usually less than 1 qt per 3000 miles, but my trusty steed drank almost a whole quart in 3 days of WOT flying at RA. Stock with 122k miles.

I must admit the car spent most of the weekend above 5000 rpm.

Seem normal?

Ahmet

I don't know what you'd consider 'acceptable', but I'm assuming the factory ratings usually seem very high, to compensate for the cars used pretty hard. I think they say around a quart every 560 miles?

My car used about 1/3rd a quart when I did a two day DE event at VIR. I believe I covered around 230+ miles of track. Normally it doesn't use any oil between changes at 145k miles. (Has SOME mods, nothing drastic).

I think your consumption isn't that bad at all. Any idea how many miles you drove?
Ahmet

Dave in Chicago

Think I ran over 135 miles each day, so about 405 miles. I didn't seem to go through as much at Blackhawk Farms, but that's a 1.8 mile road course with much less WOT operation.

Ahmet

Sounds within range, on the high side, but I wouldn't worry about it.
Ahmet

Adam Richman

I went through 1+ quart between Sunday AM (at VIR North) and Sunday night getting home. I would think that it's not that abnormal. Then again, I am mod'ing my oil pan before my next event.

Dave in Chicago

So, what's the mod? Is there a standard baffle to insert?

Adam Richman

Sorry, that wasn't too intuitive of a sentance. No, I am going to a baffled pan. I spoke with AutoAtlanta, Powerhaus and Lindsey Racing today and they all suggested it as preventative maintenance for a primarily track driven car.

On the baffle, Powerhaus puts in a wall (BTW this is only my understanding, I am sure someone else can describe it more effectively and acurately) with a trap door of sorts that allows oil (I assume below a certain level) to flow to the left but not to the right (?). When you load the right side of the car going through a high G left, the oil wants to climb the right side wall. This baffle prevents that and keeps the oil where its needed. They also extend the oil pickup by 1/2" to prevent it from pulling in froth as opposed to oil closer to the bottom of the pan.

I also spoke to Huntley Racing today and they "perf-drill" the crank, knife-edge the couterbalances, balance it and lighten it by 17lbs. Can remember the guy's name I spoke with but as he explained this might be a more true solution to the issue. According to him (or better said, my memory and interpretation of what he said), the problem is centrifugal (petal?) force of the crank. The faster the crank spins, the more it doesn't want to take in oil. I am probably really butchering what he was saying but the jist was that the way they drill it, it creates draw that keeps the bearing lubricated. The lightening is a nice benefit to the next. The knife-edging cuts down on resistance and frothing. There was a lot more that he said so I would definately call them if you are interested and again I apologize that I can't do it justice.

I would like at some point to do the latter but pulling the motor isn't something I wish to do right now. I am hoping that the baffling and potentially adding an oil cooler will keep me in the pink.

Greg

My NA 86 944 can go through ~1qt per day on track, so you're in better shape than me. I rarely drive it on the street, but it doesn't seem to burn oil under normal driving.

Dave in Chicago

Think I found the answer to my own question. Discovered oil cooler seal leak, fixed it, went back to the track...

zero oil consumption.

Happy ending? You be the judge...

Ahmet

Zero oil consumption on track? How many miles?
Ahmet

Dave in Chicago

Okay, zero is relative. Actually, I noticed a drop on the dipstick of 1/8 of an inch. I ran about 125 miles at Blackhawk that day. Hot day, temp would rise to just below the red by the end of the session, then promptly drop into normal on the cool-down lap.

Darn shifter gets pretty warm though.

122k miles on the car, bone stock, Mobil 1 15W50, needs an oil change (about 3000 miles now)

Ahmet

Same with my car, I'd suggest a turbo radiator/pump, or at least a low temp pump, fan switch, and some redline water wetter, they really help...

As for the shifter, I want to cover up the exaust on my car with header-wrap (I don't have AC!), and the shifter, as well as the seat belt mounting bolts get REALLY hot, but I'm not sure if the source of the heat is the torque tube (bearing friction), or exaust piping... Oh well, have bigger problems to tackle now.

PS: Make sure you're not missing the rubber boot, right under the leather for the shifter.
Ahmet

Dave in Chicago

My theory is the torque tube friction. I get the same level of heat when taking long (many hours) highway runs.

On a completely unrelated note, I'm going to play golf today for the first time in 3 years! Wow, have my P-car, take it to the track, AND get to play golf once in a while... Life is good.