Valvoline Vr1 20w50 still the recommended choice?
#16
Makes sense. This car will probably be driven again in March/April, so seems like 20w50 is the logical choice for oil change. Or maybe get away with 15w40?
Last edited by Dino V; 01-31-2013 at 05:52 PM.
#17
Brad Penn is great. I do start mine on nice climate days.Up here in Toronto the weather is warm and cold last couple of years.Yesterday was plus 13 celcius!I started the car and brought it uo to temp,then drove it up and down the driveway 6 times.I feel it works the brakes,clutch,gears.Open and closed the sunroof and even ran the air-conditioning for 2 minutes.I find it keeps everything working.Did the same thing about dec 15th and jan 10th also.Anytime we get plus side weather.I found that there has been zero spring surprises and I believe it is because of this.
Cheers
Cheers
#19
Brad Penn is great. I do start mine on nice climate days.Up here in Toronto the weather is warm and cold last couple of years.Yesterday was plus 13 celcius!I started the car and brought it uo to temp,then drove it up and down the driveway 6 times.I feel it works the brakes,clutch,gears.Open and closed the sunroof and even ran the air-conditioning for 2 minutes.I find it keeps everything working.Did the same thing about dec 15th and jan 10th also.Anytime we get plus side weather.I found that there has been zero spring surprises and I believe it is because of this.
Cheers
Cheers
#20
Dino, your climate is slightly colder than mine, but try to wait for a warm day (last weekend it was mid-60's and sunny)I stretched the cars legs for a about 5 minutes., Now it's 9 out and I wouldn't go within 10 feet of it. I haven't started the car if it is below freezing with the 20w50 in it. I wait for a warm winter day, then I will start it. Easiest solution as stated, is to take the battery out if you still want to run conventional thick oil.
#21
Dino, your climate is slightly colder than mine, but try to wait for a warm day (last weekend it was mid-60's and sunny)I stretched the cars legs for a about 5 minutes., Now it's 9 out and I wouldn't go within 10 feet of it. I haven't started the car if it is below freezing with the 20w50 in it. I wait for a warm winter day, then I will start it. Easiest solution as stated, is to take the battery out if you still want to run conventional thick oil.
Hoping we'll have a mild winter like last year where we had plenty of temps in the 70s during March
#22
There is absolutely no reason not to switch to full synthetic. It will NOT cause your car to start leaking oil. That is an absolute myth that has been debunked many times. On top of that, the synthetic will perform better in cold weather than dino oil, although I would still recommend the 10W40 for Nov-Apr, and then switch over to 20W50 in warm season.
My mechanic insisted on Mobil 1 10W-40, and despite warnings I'd seen on this (and other) boards, I decided to trust his judgement. A bit over a year and 8K miles later there are no oil leaks. (Did I just jinx myself? )There is a very minor damp area at the rear of the valve cover, but that is the only sign of any oil loss I have seen. I've only changed the oil once so far, and a sample sent off for analysis came back clean with no signs of unusual wear.
So for me, at least, synthetic has worked out just fine.
#23
I picked up my S2 a little over a year ago, and first thing took it to a local mechanic who is very knowledgable about the 944 and 928 to have the timing belt, water pump, seals, etc. serviced. The car had 159K miles on it at the time, and judging from the records had always been run with conventional 20W-50.
My mechanic insisted on Mobil 1 10W-40, and despite warnings I'd seen on this (and other) boards, I decided to trust his judgement. A bit over a year and 8K miles later there are no oil leaks. (Did I just jinx myself? )There is a very minor damp area at the rear of the valve cover, but that is the only sign of any oil loss I have seen. I've only changed the oil once so far, and a sample sent off for analysis came back clean with no signs of unusual wear.
So for me, at least, synthetic has worked out just fine.
My mechanic insisted on Mobil 1 10W-40, and despite warnings I'd seen on this (and other) boards, I decided to trust his judgement. A bit over a year and 8K miles later there are no oil leaks. (Did I just jinx myself? )There is a very minor damp area at the rear of the valve cover, but that is the only sign of any oil loss I have seen. I've only changed the oil once so far, and a sample sent off for analysis came back clean with no signs of unusual wear.
So for me, at least, synthetic has worked out just fine.
For the S2, I think I might end up going with the Brad Penn this time, since so many people are raving about it on this forum. Just can't make up my mind on what weight.
#25
#27
Also, how bad is the zinc/phosphorus for our cars which still run catalytic converters?
#28
Sorry Typo, I mean the VR-1 20w-50 synthetic, Is what I ran in my 924S all the time and that was used a ton at Limerock and street driving and its what I currently run in my 951, I havent had any problems great oil.... As far as cat damage, I dont have any cats on my cars so, I cant help you on that
#29
Sorry Typo, I mean the VR-1 20w-50 synthetic, Is what I ran in my 924S all the time and that was used a ton at Limerock and street driving and its what I currently run in my 951, I havent had any problems great oil.... As far as cat damage, I dont have any cats on my cars so, I cant help you on that
#30
OP - I drive my car year round and the temperature range is similar to yours in your driving months. Might hit the 30s once in a while in deep winter and goes to mid 110s in summer. Freshly blended dinosaur, 20W-50 Pennzoil all year. As long as the oil has the SN mark on the bottle, it's fine.