No crank (86 944NA)
#1
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No crank (86 944NA)
So today I attempted my 3rd time to start the car and still getting no crank or anything. First time I thought it was the starter and or battery. Starter worked when a local parts store tested it and the battery was at 50% (now charged to 100%). Tried it again yesterday but nothing. I pulled the DME unit yet nothing. Tried to jump with another car, nothing. Getting a click when I turn the key at the fuse box and every so often a click/pop (sounds like from the starter). Interior lights arent dimming when I turn the key. I can turn the motor over at the crank bolt by hand. Suggestions?
#2
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Personally, I'm suspecting your Battery--> starter harness is bad.
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...key_1286553704
Edit: Just read that your interior lights are dimming, so while it still may be the harness, it's less likely.
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...key_1286553704
Edit: Just read that your interior lights are dimming, so while it still may be the harness, it's less likely.
#3
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Aren't dimming :P they stay on full power the entire time. My mechanic and I talked, he can't fully point out why it isn't but it's dealing with the harness or the ignition switch.
#5
1A. Reference sensor failure. There are 2 of these located on the left top side of the bell housing. Total lack of tach movement while cranking a good indicator of this.
2 Reference sensor connector plug failure/ dirty connect plugs. both are located dead center the top of the engine fire wall
3 Check for spark from the coil
4 Fuel pressure needs to be 29/ 31 psi to start
1.B DME relay failure. install a back up Dme relay to test.
5. Fuel pump check valve failure. test by conducting a standing 30 min psi drop test after turning fuel pump off.
2 Reference sensor connector plug failure/ dirty connect plugs. both are located dead center the top of the engine fire wall
3 Check for spark from the coil
4 Fuel pressure needs to be 29/ 31 psi to start
1.B DME relay failure. install a back up Dme relay to test.
5. Fuel pump check valve failure. test by conducting a standing 30 min psi drop test after turning fuel pump off.
#6
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Are reference sensors something tht would not allow the motor to even try to crank? I've pulled DME relay and it still didn't crank, just did the same thing again. The issue isn't spark or fuel cuz I'd be able to crank when I turn the key, right?
#7
Make sure you have a good ground connection from the negative terminal of the battery connected to the engine block. The starter has 3 leads connected, 2 heavy leads connected to the large terminal, one connects to the positive (12vdc) terminal of the battery and the other connects to the alternator output terminal. The small lead on the starter is connected to the ignition switch which applies 12vdc start signal to the the starter when the ignition switch is in the start position. Do you have a multi-meter to test the ground and voltages?
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#8
Nordschleife Master
I would suspect the battery cables. Check the positive cables at the battery and starter and also the ground cables at the firewall and block (bell housing). Make sure everything is clean with no corrosion.
If i remember right, you can test the ignition switch by back probing a 2-pin molex connector by the brake booster / firewall. It will have two wires, a blue wire and a larger gauge red wire with a black stripe. With a multimeter, backprobe the red/black end and ground the other. When you turn the key you should get continuity.
I had a bad ignition switch that would not trigger the starter. When i turned the key the lights would dim and a distinct humming could be heard (fuel pump). Just the starter trigger on the switch wore out. So personally, i do not think the switch is your problem.. but still worth testing it so it can be ruled out.
Speed/Reference sensors have nothing to do with cranking.
If i remember right, you can test the ignition switch by back probing a 2-pin molex connector by the brake booster / firewall. It will have two wires, a blue wire and a larger gauge red wire with a black stripe. With a multimeter, backprobe the red/black end and ground the other. When you turn the key you should get continuity.
I had a bad ignition switch that would not trigger the starter. When i turned the key the lights would dim and a distinct humming could be heard (fuel pump). Just the starter trigger on the switch wore out. So personally, i do not think the switch is your problem.. but still worth testing it so it can be ruled out.
Speed/Reference sensors have nothing to do with cranking.
#9
The engine will turn over until the battery dies with bad reference sensors but it will not fire. The reference sensors send a signal to the DME to start the fuel pump when the flywheel has reached a certain RPM during starting. A weak battery or a bad starter will not allow the pre start RPM's req'd to be met The other op's were all good suggestions also.
#10
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So problem is solved, thanks for the help. Remembered putting in the ground at the BH but it was loose enough that it couldnt start. Now i got a new issue... no fuel delivery but i will dive into that in another thread...
#11
No fuel, remove the cap from the fuel rail, install a hose with fitting ontp this rail and insert the end into a coke bottle , Jumper the fuel pump/ DME to start the pum and see what you have. Good luck.