So im stuck sitting at my shop, and if i dont finish this job, ill be sleeping here... lol

ive got the flywheel lock, and i keep lining up the marks to tdc, but every time i put the flywheel lock in place, it pushes it out of TDC. so now what do i do?
i assume the pin and the line are supposed to be lined perfectly up, but it looks like it gets pushed about a half tooth of the flywheel off center when i put the lock on.

heres where i end up

 

iirc half a tooth isn't going to make any difference. I've replaced belts in the past where the sprockets had to move 1/2 a tooth just to get the belt on. Wait for someone else to confirm, I'm only iirc

 

ive read that because im not doing the WP, just the BSB and TB, that i dont need to remove any of the pulleys, so may not need the lock at all? if this is the case ill just continue and be careful not to turn anything..

 

I'd just install the lock and allow for the slight offset.

I'm pretty sure mine was the same when I was doing my belts and rollers.

 

sounds like thats the case. im just overly paranoid seeing as this is my first one... haha
on to the next step i guess!

 

Confirmed - move on to the next step. This should cause you no issues.

 

Half a tooth off is normal.

 

heres another question. i have tensioned the belt to 40lbs using the krikit tool. then did 2 full rotations of the cam gear by turning the crank pulley. all lines up great. it reads 40lbs still.
now on clarks garage it talks about backing the crank pulley up a tooth and a half and checking tension. well, without the guide on yet (so i could check tension again), after i back it up, it lets enough slack that when i push down with the krikit tool, the belt has enough slack to go down and hit the other end of itself at the water pump pulley. if i turn the crank back to take the slack out, it rears 40lbs still. so am i good? other places dont seem to say anything about rotating the crank backwards to put slack in it and checking it

 

ah, got it figured out, i had read it wrong.

is it normal for the belts to whine a little at first before they loosen up? or should they not whine at all?

 

Mine didn't whine, yours may be too tight or rubbing on something.

I find the "thumb test" to work pretty well as I tested it back to back with the tool.

 

i did too for the timing belt. the bsb seemed a little tighter than before, but i just popped the bottom cover up just enough to get the spanner in there and loosen it a hair, still seems to be whining. the TB is at 40lbs as recommended, and i could do the water pump spin by hand as well.

 

It's most likely that you have a reading error on the Krikit tool. I used the krikit tool for a while, then got the Arnnwerks one with a shop gauge on it. I was off by a rather large amount on all my belts even though i was getting a reliable reading.

Also note that your balance shaft belt will seem very loose when you have it set correctly. It runs that loose because it runs at double engine speed.

 

i guess monday when i head back ill pull the covers off and readjust the bsb. the tb seemed good to me

 

you only really need it for the crank bolt. most of the time if im just doing a timing belt/balance belt (no WP) then i don't even use the lock...

 

yeah, i kinda realized that. i mean even if stuff moves, they all have marks to line up.. next time will go a lotttt faster!