FRporscheman

The only time SEM does not look good is when you use a glossy finish. Try to get a color that is as matte as possible. For example, Gloss Black is bad, Landau Black is better.

I too have had good experiences with SEM color coat. Some pieces I sprayed many years ago still look like the day I did them.

odurandina

i too love SEM, but for best results on the lower dash. doors, center piece and cassette cover....








leather.
















the truth is out there.






















stay hungry.

Hollywood D

Now that's an interesting idea, never thought of that!

ibtisam.jawad

Odurandina, are you referring to leatherique or are you saying that the vinyl in those areas be replaced with leather? Both ideas sound good but leatherique is not available here in Vegas. Sheepskin anyone? :-)

odurandina

yes, replacing the vinyl pieces (mentioned above) with leather is well within the margin... you'll need a seamstress or upholstry professional with the correct machine to make the factory door stitches (not cheap) but the other stuff is do yourself. unfortunately, the top dash section is a very costly fix.

ibtisam.jawad

I already effed up before I even got half way through. I forgot to apply the adhesion promoter before applying the color coat. I've just applied one coat though so I might try to take it off with some paint thinner or similar tomorrow and start from scratch. This sucks. I had prepped and prepped and prepped and missed just one thing in the middle I cleaned everything with dish soap and scotchbrite pad first, let dry, wipe with alcohol, apply SEM soap and wipe it off, apply vinyl prep liberally and then drain it with water, let dry overnight, apply vinyl prep again and wipe with clean cloth ... and then before applying the color coat, i forgot to add the fricking adhesion promoter (38363 sand free since we our vinyl rubs off with acetone). Why me! lol

On the positive side of things, I get to do it all again. right!

royalschwarz

FWIW, I used SEM Color Coat with nothing more than a light sanding with 400 w/d and a wipe down with alcohol and it's held up for years. The adhesion promoter (for me anyway) is not an absolute must, however, I can see with all the prep you've gone through, how you'd want to redo it using it. Just my $.02.

mhr

I was advised I didn't need the adhesion promoter and did not use it. Only did it a few months ago but everything is holding up perfectly.

ibtisam.jawad

I went and asked the paint department at Carquest what they'd advise me to do. They said don't worry about removing the first coat. So I came back and started with SEM soap, then vinyl prep, then adhesion promoter and apply the first coat while the 38363 was still wet. Turning out good so far. I will keep my fingers crossed though.

^ Mhr, you know that made me remember... the carquest guy did say that I did not need the adhesion promoter and that the vinyl prep did the same thing. It was only when I saw the video on sem website that I thought of putting the adhesion promoter on. I was originally going for the bulldog adhesion promoter.

ibtisam.jawad

The color coat came on really well and cured to as near ideal as I would have liked. I do not like the low luster clear though. It seems powdery after it dries and the black looks grey. I've read of this problem on other forums and I'm thinking that I messed some other step in the process too. It seems as if the low luster clear is gathering tiny tiny paint particles from the air and as they settle they leave a brittle microscopic paint dust layer. May be I should try the medium gloss clear instead.

I think I found a decent solution for Vinyl cracks too. I tried filling them in with Pronto Kombi Spot Putty and even after cleaning and painting with SEM stuff, it's holding up. I've tried it only on one trim piece so far, but it has reduced the look of cracks to about 20% of their initial depth. If it remains flexible I will apply it to the dashboard cracks as well.

I will post some pictures later tonight. I know this thread would be 100 times better with those.

ibtisam.jawad

Attached are a couple of quick "after" pics. Pretty happy with the results so far.

odurandina

i had a puke grey interior.... changed the front section to black. i repaired the dash with Devcon plastic welder with great success..... and just like the other guys, i cleaned with SEM soap and a green scrub pad... then wiped over a few times with denatured alcohol..... then applied the SEM vinyl prep... and wiped clean with some water.... after using a hair dryer, i sprayed on the SEM color coat... on the window frames/pillars above the door level, i went to a dark grey and then the ceiling is still the original grey. not perfec, the the overall result was pretty good..... the top of the dash is no longer glossy due to UV damage, but that's an easy fix. i can hit it with some clear coat spray or more SEM.... one corner of the lower dash has been worn down from my left knee... i might hit these spots again at some point. it would be a nice 3 hour project for a sunny afternoon in Florida this winter.

ibtisam.jawad

I fixed the cracks in the dash and sprayed it with SEM but wasn't happy with the results. So I went to hancock and got me some marine vinyl. A few hours and lots of patience later, I now have a dash that looks half way decent. I am happy with it though because I wasn't going for perfect anyways. If I had to do it again, I'd have someone else recover it with vinyl. It's super easy and super cheap to DIY but super hard to get all the contours right on the dashboard. My cost was $25 for the yard and half of vinyl, $20 for glue, putty knife and hobby knife, and $30 for a decent heat gun from harbor freight.

V2Rocket

pics?

Remotecontroller

I have a light grey interior (TT code on a 94 968) - please advise on what is the closest SEM paint color for my interior?

Thanks in advance!