Scott at Team Harco

Before anyone asks - I did not use the search function for this.

I'm looking for opinions on whether it is easier to access the clutch mechanicals by pulling the engine or by dropping the transaxle and approaching from the rear. Keep in mind this work will be performed without the aid of a lift. There is an engine hoist available though.

I did the clutch on Herbie, a long time ago, while the transaxle was being rebuilt - so I know what is involved there. I am thinking it might be easier to pull the engine instead.

Experiences and thoughts on this are quite welcome.

Van

Hands down, it's easier pulling the transaxle. Only a masochist would choose to pull the engine to do that.

JimV8

It's 50/50 really. Getting the engine out means dropping it and that means elevating the chassis. Taking it out from the top is possible but by then you would have the transaxle out too.

Ben951S

I am going to be working with some one who plans on doing the engine out. He stated 5.5hrs (if all goes well) to pull the engine. Looking forward to it, and I can update my thread.

Scott at Team Harco

Thanks for the feedback so far.

Jim - can you explain why the transaxle has to come out if pulling the engine out from above while not if dropping from below?

V2Rocket

you have to slide the tube back quite a bit to clear the engine, more than from below, because of the shape of the firewall the engine goes forward

JustinL

It can come out the top without moving the transaxle back. It is a very tight fit and you need to angle the engine a lot with a load leveler. Radiator and everything needs to come out.

I think dropping the transaxle is much easier to get to the clutch. The decision is really made if there is any other work that needs to be done with the engine out.

Scott at Team Harco

OK - looks like the answer is to pull the transaxle and slide the torque tube back. As I mentioned - I have done this previously. It was not an enjoyable task.

For a little background - this is for my girlfriend's car (an 85.5).
1) the clutch pedal went to the floor
2) she pulled the pedal back up
3) then the pedal could no longer be pushed in at all! My thought was that the push rod had slipped out of position and was trying to push against the body of the clutch master.
4) I removed the clutch master and verified clutch pedal and push rod action.
5) Reinstalled the clutch master and attempted to bleed the clutch hydraulics. It would not hold pressure - even after using a pressure bleeder.
6) Discovered the release bearing lever (fork?) was fully forward thus not allowing for any movement of the release bearing (and pressure plate and clutch). See the image below. Imagine the dimension defined by "A" as being equal to 0.

Any thoughts on what has failed? Anyone experienced this before, if so, what broke?

StoogeMoe

I was thinking about this also. I have only taken engines out, but the clear advantage to pulling the engine is the easy access to the clutch pieces. Without a lift you have to do all that stuff on your back. I can't imagine that being fun. Also while the engine is out, it's easier to do the rod bearings.

The disadvantage with pulling the engine is having to drain the coolant, disconnecting the A/C (if you have one), the exhaust, and the wiring harnesses. Also dropping the engine out of the bottom means you need an alignment and playing with that steering shaft and motor mounts.

For an NA with AC delete, I think it's almost a wash. Anything else probably leans towards dropping the tranny.

MAGK944

I would rather wrench a few bolts than mess with coolant, AC, electrical, power steering, etc. Its easily doable without a lift and doesn't make sense to pull unless you need to do gaskets or bearings.

mikemyers924s

having never done the engine out, but being in the middle of the transaxle out method, I'd say it's probably a wash. Do whatever you're more comfortable with. They can both really suck, I hope you have better luck than I have!

krystar

if you're doing clutch (and rear main) only, then pull trans.

if you're doing anything to the engine itself and also clutch, pull engine.

pull from top. remove hood, radiator, front sway, exhaust manifold, oil pressure sender, accessory belt pulley on the crank. unbolt steering rack from subframe and disconnect steering column and let it hang loose. unhook electricals and pull fuel rail. engine has to shift forward and angle up and slightly passenger side simultaneously to clear everything. gently jack up the torq tube to get angle.

SirLapsalot

Sounds like maybe the clutch fork broke? Is there a rubber centered clutch or spring centered clutch disk in there? I have had a pedal go to the floor then after pulling it back up it was sort of stuck and would get stuck some of the way travel. Does it make any noises with the engine rotating when you try to depress the clutch? In my case the pressure was a centerforce with an extra spring that came apart and was not enabling the clutch to disengage. If you need a new fork I have one and I also have a very nice clutch kit available for cheap.

FRporscheman

On an NA, definitely remove the transaxle and go from the back.

I'd only pull the engine if I was planning some work to it (which is what I did to my 951 - it needed a clutch, belts, oil pan gasket, etc). I'd also consider pulling the engine if it was a turbo with the 1-piece crossover pipe. When removing the engine, you can leave the AC compressor in the car so the lines never get opened. Never tried that though - my 951's AC didn't work so we just removed the compressor.

PorscheDoc

I can do a clutch in 4 hours coming in from the transaxle. I don't think I can R&R a motor in that time, let alone having to slide around in coolant from disconnecting that crap.