eric951turbo

I'm sure mine is defective. Sometime my idle is good, sometimes it's bad.

I just came back from a small ride, and felt like the engine sounded and felt terrible. Like the idle was set too high, but was reading .95rpm.

I poped up the hood, starting lowering the idle screw, but the idle wouldn't even change, even fully closed, or fully open. (a reminder that I did a full throttle rebuilt 3 months ago).

Then I heard a continuous buzzing sound under the intake, I'm pretty it's the ISV.

I then pinched the isv hose going to the pipe... nothing. no idle change, no difference.

So I'm pretty sure it's bad. I did clean it with carburator cleaner 3 months ago, and I'm not equipped with a powerprobe.

So knowing the heavy price of a bosh isv, I was looking on ebay I found this:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Idle-Cont...ht_1334wt_1398


Any comments on this? it's funny cause it says 87 to 89, but not 86, but it's all the same thing, right^

pontifex4

Eric, to change the idle, you should also use a jumper in the diagnostic plug:

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/fuel-08.htm

eric951turbo

What you mean is that ''each time'' I need to adjust the idle screw, I need to jump the isv before???

Vincent C.

that valve will not work.....its not a three wire....

eric951turbo

good to know, thanks! the ad is false.

pontifex4

That's correct. Also, be sure to do it when the engine is hot.

By the way, the other thing I should have mentioned is that you should get a long screwdriver and try tapping it while the idle is poor to see if it improves. The valves have been known to stick.

eric951turbo

to stick

I cleaned the inside with carburator cleaner 3 months ago... and if I remember, I also shot some wd40 afterwards.... it could be sticky in there.

eric951turbo

Removed, cleaned again (no wd40 this time). The valve inside is not sticky anymore (was a bit sticky). And I went crazy on the silicone, if there's a leak inside, it won't see the day.

gtroth

Hmmm...not really supposed to use silicone under the hood. Vapors can foul the O2 sensor.
Let it sit for 24 hrs before you start her up. There's no silicone inside the air passages is there?

Edit- I just noticed your silicone in the photo says sensor safe so prolly ok.

Otherwise, eliminating the stickiness is promising.

eric951turbo

Well I couldn't wait 24 hours and already went for a drive. As soon as I started the car, jumping the icv at the same time, when I removed the jumper, the icv was making even worst wining sounds. But at least I saw this time that if I pinched the icv hose, the engine was on his way to stall. The idle is ok, until I come up at stop sign, it drops a bit low. I've put one the ac, idle drops, vacuums go high.

And the still runs like crap. It sounds bad, it runs bad (shaky), the acceleration in 1st gear is poor etc....

I guess I'm also due for a new isv

Found some some cheaper ones on eBay, compare to where I usually buy my parts.

Jfrahm

ISVs are common parts in Porsche, Saab, BMW, Volvo, etc. Get one from about the same year, same pins, same hose arrangement and go drive.

eric951turbo

And I ***** friend thanks