944 Electric Water Pump
#46
This mod looks real interesting. I'm thinking about doing this when I do my belts in another 20k miles. Has anyone actually put together a kit to convert to electric water pump, or is it just put stuff together and get your pump modified by someone?
#47
Instructor
Thread Starter
This is just putting stuff together. I thought about making a kit with full on instructions. But I figured I would just do the write up and others could follow along.
#48
Instructor
Thread Starter
Update: So with the new temperatures of winter I am forced to change a few things on the water pump set up. I am placing the water pump in the bottom radiator hose. It will still be flowing in reverse through the head first then the block. However to make room the power steering pump needs to be removed. Mine has not been hooked up in like 4 months so I think I will be ready to search for a manual rack. But the main thing that was causing problems was the sensor location. in the radiator hose it would not read the engine temp the same as on the original dash gauge. This would case the pump to not run on constantly but on and off. Making the controller for it think it still needed to be warmed up. So I am relocating the sensor to the back of the head. Where the heater hose connects. I have a Lindsey Racing Block off Plate that I had get drilled and tapped for the sensor. I believe this will solve my problems. I will post pictures on Sunday when I am doing all of this. I just got all my parts in today but will not have time till Sunday.
#51
Instructor
Thread Starter
Spencer if I remember correctly I was just going to give it to you haha. How much of it do you need so I can try to keep it all in one piece and not just cut all the lines :P
Thanks John you helped a lot when I was designing this thing! I like the style of the wheels I just do not like how much they weigh :/
-Peter
Thanks John you helped a lot when I was designing this thing! I like the style of the wheels I just do not like how much they weigh :/
-Peter
#53
Instructor
Thread Starter
So on Sunday I didn't get as much done as I wanted.... But I did get the sensor relocated. I also am trying to figure out how to mount the water pump on the lower radiator hose due to clearance (even with power steering off) If I can't figure something out tomorrow I will just mount it back on the upper hose. Anyways here are the pictures I promised.
#54
Instructor
Thread Starter
*Update:
So I ended up settling with the pump being in the upper hose. With the sensor now on the head I am getting a proper reading on the sensor. For the past months I haven't had to worry and look down every 5 seconds at my temp gauge, it stays at the set temp I put it at. I recently went for a 3 hour hard drive through the mountains and even had a 100+ mph run at one point and the temperature never went past the half mark. I am really happy with how it drives and my average mpg is 26 right now with a race frwilks chip (hopefully soon that will replaced with rouge's NA-tune). I don't think I can drive my car economically anymore with how quickly the engine responds. If I am ever having a bad day I just jump in the car and it automatically makes me smile.
A quick reference on the engine drag I have reduced or eliminated. PS Belt removed, A/C delete, BS delete, Underdrive Alt, Fidanza LW Flywheel, and of course the electric water pump conversion.
So I ended up settling with the pump being in the upper hose. With the sensor now on the head I am getting a proper reading on the sensor. For the past months I haven't had to worry and look down every 5 seconds at my temp gauge, it stays at the set temp I put it at. I recently went for a 3 hour hard drive through the mountains and even had a 100+ mph run at one point and the temperature never went past the half mark. I am really happy with how it drives and my average mpg is 26 right now with a race frwilks chip (hopefully soon that will replaced with rouge's NA-tune). I don't think I can drive my car economically anymore with how quickly the engine responds. If I am ever having a bad day I just jump in the car and it automatically makes me smile.
A quick reference on the engine drag I have reduced or eliminated. PS Belt removed, A/C delete, BS delete, Underdrive Alt, Fidanza LW Flywheel, and of course the electric water pump conversion.
#55
*Update:
So I ended up settling with the pump being in the upper hose. With the sensor now on the head I am getting a proper reading on the sensor. For the past months I haven't had to worry and look down every 5 seconds at my temp gauge, it stays at the set temp I put it at. I recently went for a 3 hour hard drive through the mountains and even had a 100+ mph run at one point and the temperature never went past the half mark. I am really happy with how it drives and my average mpg is 26 right now with a race frwilks chip (hopefully soon that will replaced with rouge's NA-tune). I don't think I can drive my car economically anymore with how quickly the engine responds. If I am ever having a bad day I just jump in the car and it automatically makes me smile.
A quick reference on the engine drag I have reduced or eliminated. PS Belt removed, A/C delete, BS delete, Underdrive Alt, Fidanza LW Flywheel, and of course the electric water pump conversion.
So I ended up settling with the pump being in the upper hose. With the sensor now on the head I am getting a proper reading on the sensor. For the past months I haven't had to worry and look down every 5 seconds at my temp gauge, it stays at the set temp I put it at. I recently went for a 3 hour hard drive through the mountains and even had a 100+ mph run at one point and the temperature never went past the half mark. I am really happy with how it drives and my average mpg is 26 right now with a race frwilks chip (hopefully soon that will replaced with rouge's NA-tune). I don't think I can drive my car economically anymore with how quickly the engine responds. If I am ever having a bad day I just jump in the car and it automatically makes me smile.
A quick reference on the engine drag I have reduced or eliminated. PS Belt removed, A/C delete, BS delete, Underdrive Alt, Fidanza LW Flywheel, and of course the electric water pump conversion.
#56
Instructor
Thread Starter
Just like a normal car. I am about 3,000 miles from changing the timing belt which should cost me a total of $20 give or take. So I am finally reaping the maintenance reward. Although to be honest with how busy I have been with work I haven't tinkered with my car too much. I have just been driving it around. I have been thinking about selling it. And getting Ford fiesta st. But I dunno I keep going back and fourth if I can really get rid of my 944.
#57
Just like a normal car. I am about 3,000 miles from changing the timing belt which should cost me a total of $20 give or take. So I am finally reaping the maintenance reward. Although to be honest with how busy I have been with work I haven't tinkered with my car too much. I have just been driving it around. I have been thinking about selling it. And getting Ford fiesta st. But I dunno I keep going back and fourth if I can really get rid of my 944.
I'm looking into trying to make my early car even cooler. Changed out all the temp items. This might be the next step on that along with better oil cooling.
Anything you would do different or improve about it if you had to do it over?
#58
Instructor
Thread Starter
Keep it. Considering using your method on my turbo engine I'm building as it has been mentioned to have even more benefits there.
I'm looking into trying to make my early car even cooler. Changed out all the temp items. This might be the next step on that along with better oil cooling.
Anything you would do different or improve about it if you had to do it over?
I'm looking into trying to make my early car even cooler. Changed out all the temp items. This might be the next step on that along with better oil cooling.
Anything you would do different or improve about it if you had to do it over?
I learned a lot with this project. And am pretty happy with how it turned out even with the small hiccups. I am okay with the smaller failures because it was about trying again until it worked how I wanted. But I would hve got a rental car at the same time if I were to do it again haha.
#59
Any further updates?
I am doing the same conversion with my 87 924s. Your information has proven to be very valuable to those of us pursuing this work. I have run a D.C. pump on my Lotus for ten years now w/o a failure. So when my pump started leaking recently, it was essential to convert. I have also done a really nice conversion on a 12a RX7 engine.
The major difference I would like to point out is the tensioner redesign in 1987. I have the later HUGE auto tensioner that I removed along with the 17mm bolt in the top of the oil pump housing to fit the conversion tensioner.
What I really need now is the proper width, smooth tensioner that includes at least the 'lip' on the inside to prevent the belt from walking off the back side of the cam sprocket. Please let me know the part number, etc.
Once again, thank you for such a great write-up and pics!
I am doing the same conversion with my 87 924s. Your information has proven to be very valuable to those of us pursuing this work. I have run a D.C. pump on my Lotus for ten years now w/o a failure. So when my pump started leaking recently, it was essential to convert. I have also done a really nice conversion on a 12a RX7 engine.
The major difference I would like to point out is the tensioner redesign in 1987. I have the later HUGE auto tensioner that I removed along with the 17mm bolt in the top of the oil pump housing to fit the conversion tensioner.
What I really need now is the proper width, smooth tensioner that includes at least the 'lip' on the inside to prevent the belt from walking off the back side of the cam sprocket. Please let me know the part number, etc.
Once again, thank you for such a great write-up and pics!
#60
Conversion is complete and running. The following is the tensioner info:
Gates T41046 Engine Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley, 1992-1998 Hyundai Sonata 2.0, Steel, smooth/Backside (60mm x 10mm x 33.5mm) - Flanged 2.4" diam x 1.3" works with Honda accord 113 tooth timing belt
Purchased at Napa for $19.00
Gates T41046 Engine Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley, 1992-1998 Hyundai Sonata 2.0, Steel, smooth/Backside (60mm x 10mm x 33.5mm) - Flanged 2.4" diam x 1.3" works with Honda accord 113 tooth timing belt
Purchased at Napa for $19.00