944 pre-purchase help
#1
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I'm looking at a couple of 944s in the SF Bay Area.
A couple of questions: one, a 1987, has had some extensive work: valve repair 37K ago at 152k (and maybe a lot of years past) with belts and hoses done then. At 178k air flow meter and front wheel bearings. Some brake work
The other is a 1991 S2 with 171k, but I haven't been able to get repair info yet.
I'm kinda wondering if I should just assume I'm gonna have to replace water pump, timing belts, and whatever seals etc with either of these cars if I were to buy them? One at least has documentation, although a replacement seems seriously past due, and the other has a spottier repair record, but is cleaner.
What does a job like that cost in terms of hours/parts, ballpark (I'd have to adjust for higher costs hereabouts, usually about $110/hr).
And can anyone recommend someone who might be able to take a look-see for a prepurchase inspection? I have had recommendations on shops in N. Oakland where I live (Bauer, Precision AutoRow, Porboys down in E. Oakland) but I'm not sure if those guys deign to mess with old semi-beaters.
thanks,
Rob
A couple of questions: one, a 1987, has had some extensive work: valve repair 37K ago at 152k (and maybe a lot of years past) with belts and hoses done then. At 178k air flow meter and front wheel bearings. Some brake work
The other is a 1991 S2 with 171k, but I haven't been able to get repair info yet.
I'm kinda wondering if I should just assume I'm gonna have to replace water pump, timing belts, and whatever seals etc with either of these cars if I were to buy them? One at least has documentation, although a replacement seems seriously past due, and the other has a spottier repair record, but is cleaner.
What does a job like that cost in terms of hours/parts, ballpark (I'd have to adjust for higher costs hereabouts, usually about $110/hr).
And can anyone recommend someone who might be able to take a look-see for a prepurchase inspection? I have had recommendations on shops in N. Oakland where I live (Bauer, Precision AutoRow, Porboys down in E. Oakland) but I'm not sure if those guys deign to mess with old semi-beaters.
thanks,
Rob
#2
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not from that area but my theory is that no matter what if you dont know if the belts etc are newer, definitly put them on. Even some that have been told the belts are new have found old belts on there so i dont trust anyone. Get a PPI at a local euro shop or dealer, usually worth it if they are thorough.
#4
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Finding the 'right' garage/mechanic can be like dating: if you like what you saw/felt/experienced the first time, you should probably go back. Still, some of us keep wondering if there isn't something better out there....
#5
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I would say pass on both of those and look for something with lower mileage and more consistent service history. There should be many nice examples in NorCal you can find, IMO keep looking.
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sorry.....
if you crunch numbers you'll discover they don't work anymore.
save a few paychecks and get a 968.
all it is, is a less-old 944....
about 3 times better built.... and twice as fast, and dangerous, for just a few dollars more.
in other words, save a few paychecks and get a 968 (944 S3).
it might only look like a less-old 944.... but they run like they're 20 years less-old.
if you crunch numbers you'll discover they don't work anymore.
save a few paychecks and get a 968.
all it is, is a less-old 944....
about 3 times better built.... and twice as fast, and dangerous, for just a few dollars more.
in other words, save a few paychecks and get a 968 (944 S3).
it might only look like a less-old 944.... but they run like they're 20 years less-old.
#7
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i'm touching upon the third rail, but we have an absolutely horrible attrition rate on this forum.... these car are easy to get in. but they range anywhere between very challenging and extremely challenging to stay in.... this truth is eventually discovered by the third and forth generation 944 owners who come here.... the arguments are always the same;
"it's those neglected cars that are the problem."
poorly maintained ? get a car up to date, get hurt on the job or layed off.... the car sits awhile and turns into a ****box right before your eyes. the truth is more like the following; the cars are, in some cases, nearly absurd to sort out..... and then like your typical 60 thousand dollar cars to maintain. and just about the time you're done getting things caught up (timing system, H2O pump, fuel lines, brakes, tires, suspension bits, and on and on, etc).... you begin to enjoy the car more, log some miles and drive the cars hard.... but, you don't have much spare cash....
then one of the following situations happens;
1. blown head gasket. combination of time and engine coolants; eventually eat through the head gaskets.
2. blown clutch. nearly $3 k at my local shop.
3. failed electrical system. $1,000 ++ ~ junk the car.
4. timing belt failure *(always out there, threatening your ride). about $4.5 k at my local shop.
5. warped head after failed H20 pump or blown head gasket.
6. and even in some cases, rod bearing failure/blown engine.
more in the sad but true context;
if you can't afford a 968. you probably shouldn't be attempting to purchase a 944 either. because once you sort a 944 (not superficial **** but actually sorting the cars), you're well into *Ebay-968 money anyway.... given this reality, you should always go with the cars that are worth more.... 968s prices away from the quick-sale context are looking extremely good. you'll get a decent portion of your money back if you sell.
*$7~$9k.
.
"it's those neglected cars that are the problem."
poorly maintained ? get a car up to date, get hurt on the job or layed off.... the car sits awhile and turns into a ****box right before your eyes. the truth is more like the following; the cars are, in some cases, nearly absurd to sort out..... and then like your typical 60 thousand dollar cars to maintain. and just about the time you're done getting things caught up (timing system, H2O pump, fuel lines, brakes, tires, suspension bits, and on and on, etc).... you begin to enjoy the car more, log some miles and drive the cars hard.... but, you don't have much spare cash....
then one of the following situations happens;
1. blown head gasket. combination of time and engine coolants; eventually eat through the head gaskets.
2. blown clutch. nearly $3 k at my local shop.
3. failed electrical system. $1,000 ++ ~ junk the car.
4. timing belt failure *(always out there, threatening your ride). about $4.5 k at my local shop.
5. warped head after failed H20 pump or blown head gasket.
6. and even in some cases, rod bearing failure/blown engine.
more in the sad but true context;
if you can't afford a 968. you probably shouldn't be attempting to purchase a 944 either. because once you sort a 944 (not superficial **** but actually sorting the cars), you're well into *Ebay-968 money anyway.... given this reality, you should always go with the cars that are worth more.... 968s prices away from the quick-sale context are looking extremely good. you'll get a decent portion of your money back if you sell.
*$7~$9k.
.
Last edited by odurandina; 08-25-2012 at 12:52 PM.
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#8
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Well thanks for the 968 suggestion.
I'm no stranger to older cars, having fixed up some. But there are old car issues and old car ISSUES, so to speak. Some models and makes just hold up longer and are easier to jury-rig into usefulness. As I said, I’m real familiar with Miatas: get an old one and you'll almost for sure have to sort heating issues, for example, but once done you're not likely to have major recurring problems that a home mechanic can't deal with. And the heating issue is pretty easy as well.
So this is exactly why I asked. 'Course I may go for one of these anyway, hope I can get some track days and autox out of it, and then sell for $500 to a Lemons racer![bigbye](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/xyxwave.gif)
thanks again.
I'm no stranger to older cars, having fixed up some. But there are old car issues and old car ISSUES, so to speak. Some models and makes just hold up longer and are easier to jury-rig into usefulness. As I said, I’m real familiar with Miatas: get an old one and you'll almost for sure have to sort heating issues, for example, but once done you're not likely to have major recurring problems that a home mechanic can't deal with. And the heating issue is pretty easy as well.
So this is exactly why I asked. 'Course I may go for one of these anyway, hope I can get some track days and autox out of it, and then sell for $500 to a Lemons racer
![bigbye](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/xyxwave.gif)
thanks again.
#9
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If you don't have records for a timing belt replacement, count on doing it right away. Up here (British Columbia,Canada), looking at $1400-1500 for full job including water pump,balance shaft belt and all rollers/ tensioners. Parts being half of that.