Sentinelist

As in, temporarily before it gets any worse? I have pretty severe hatch squeak now from metal on glass in an area right up top on the passenger side about 4" long. Really don't want this to fracture, so I'm not driving it for now. A few inches on either side of it are weakening quickly. There is a 1mm gap I can spread it- would it be OK to just squirt some recommended sealant in there for now? I do have a slight leak- we had a monumental rainstorm that dumped 3" of rain in as many hours a few weeks ago that I was caught out in. Got about a drop inside every 10 seconds from back there, so that's as bad as it gets.

My Audi is about to go down for a month, so the 951 is needs to be at the ready daily. I'm not ready to tackle redoing the hatch until at least October, though when I am, I have searched and found what I need to tackle.

Ky944TurboNewbie

Without seeing it, I don't know if any online advice is helpful. I recommend posting a picture. If someone says it is safe to drive, I would disconnect the Struts and not open and close the hatch until you can repair it.

kens_74911s

What do the hatch receiver lock pin bushings look like? Good, worn or non existing, Just curious.
Ken

catamount

Like so many others my glass has slowly delaminated from the frame. (not bad though) I used clear silicon across the top outside edge of my hatch. That was 3 years ago and it hasn't leaked yet. I do get a slight rattle from it. My bigger problem is hatch pins. I have never been able to get the driver's side pin adjusted so that the hatch opens and shuts properly on that side. It rattles like no tomorrow there.

jpk

Silicone is not the right stuff to use; it might stop a water leak, but structurally, it is not strong enough to properly bond the glass. Go to an auto glass shop and have them shoot some urethane between the glass and the frame. That'll do the trick.

KuHL 951

I used Permatex urethane windshield sealant (3M makes a better version of the sealant if you can find it). It's black and viscous enough to press into voids. I taped off the trim and glass edge first so I could smooth out the overflow. I worked both from inside and outside. That hatch never rattled or leaked for the remaining 5 years I had the car. It's not the best way but I have to say it worked very well and is invisible. The key is getting a resilient cushion between the glass and trim piece.

Poor Man's Hatch Seal

bonus12

This stuff can be covered by insurance.

Sentinelist

I like it. Link saved.

Good points, folks- I'll get some photos in the next day or three!

catamount

Correct. I wasn't advocating silicon as the long term solution to rebond the glass and frame. It's a short term solution for leaks.

jpk

OK, but if you use silicone as a "temporary fix", then when you do need to finally do it right, the frame will need to come off. I'm saying, just go get a glass shop to do the urethane now, and you'll be good to go for a lot longer than a silicone fix.

Sentinelist

Definitely noting this as well- thanks.

Cole

You can't get the pins right because the hatch is bent, this is why it delaminates. It's not a dramatic bend but enough. As the hatch seal weakens overtime it allows the frame to tweak, eventually breaking the seal at the top of the hatch. This is why many of the "silicone" type fixes don't work, for long.

I've revealed mien 3 times now with everything from epoxy to the 3M stuff, it all eventually lets go. I'm convinced now the only way to really fix it is to totally dismantle it, straighten it and reseal with a fresh seal all the way around.

catamount

Finding a shop that will do it is easier said then done.

Cole

The best temp fix I have come up with is just to run a strip of clear packing tape over the opening. It lasted longer than silicone and way easier to clean up when you are really ready to fix it.

kens_74911s

Have had a few discussions with others that have done repeated repairs and we concluded that when the frame is off or separated enough, the glass can be masked off with several layers of duct tape. leave only the bonded area exposed. Then sand blast the glass in that area to allow the adhesive to get a grip.

Short term tape it sounds like a good plan Use black electrical tape and you could pull it off and replace untill the big fix. I have 4 hatches if someone wants to make an offer all straped to a pallet and dial in the repair process . These are a pain to ship otherwise I would consider dialing in the process. I may still do it, someone please send me some extra time ....