Whelp,,,, I bought one. New 968 is at my place
06-26-2012, 02:29 PM
#46
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks OD. The damage isn't too bad on the bond. Total fees will be about $400, but I was expecting closer to $170, I can live with that. Ordered new tires today, and have many parts enroute to me now. Gonna get a battery and check on the belt tension, then do some more cleaning.
06-26-2012, 08:43 PM
#47
Drifting
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Caraquet-- New-Brunswick-- Canada
Posts: 2,728
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Was looking at your motor pic,seem as you still have the OEM distributor cap on there if so the rotor will also be original.Depending of how much mileage the car has it migth be a good idea to replace both.Cap # will be 928-602-211-01-M14 / rotor # 944-602-213-01-M14.The oil filter go with Mahle OC -142,the spark plugs if needed to be replace nothing fancy Bosche WR-7DC + (7990) copper core 968s just love them.Your coil wire is install the wrong way it should be facing up (see pic) but lol like -syndeyman mention I'm not human but still this infos migth help.
Last edited by ernie9468; 02-04-2013 at 06:35 PM.
06-27-2012, 12:03 AM
#48
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Mileage is 123K. I'll check on the tuneup stuff after I get the car together. Got the int cleaned up ok today, and it's not too bad in there. The drivers and pax seat bottoms are hashed, but the rest of the int looks amazingly good except for some shrunk carpets at corners. I can live it with.
Did a bunch of leatherique cleaning and feeding today and that stuff really helps a lot on dry, dull black leather. I"ll toss some pics up in a bit of the int. Back seat before and after cleaning and two sloshes of leatherique. man, that stuff is da bomm.
Did a bunch of leatherique cleaning and feeding today and that stuff really helps a lot on dry, dull black leather. I"ll toss some pics up in a bit of the int. Back seat before and after cleaning and two sloshes of leatherique. man, that stuff is da bomm.
Last edited by docmirror; 05-02-2013 at 02:31 PM.
06-27-2012, 06:52 PM
#52
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Did not repl the belts. They are both new belts with just sit time on them. I'll run them for a while and inspect again.
It's titled; finally. After paying $540.75 in fees and bond I have a clear piece of paper, that will be unblemished after 3 years. It's almost a certainty that I will own it that long, so I guess it was worth the hassle.
I took the ign cap off and yes, it was a disgusting mess in there. This car has a lot of deferred mx. Ordered up a new cap, rotor and coil wire.
Last night I went after the parasitic current draw. With my ammeter connected, I show about 65mA of current flow. I took each fuse out in sequence and found the following loads:
Fuse 11 - 37mA
Fuse 39 - 14mA
So with those two fuses out I have about 14mA left that I think is unfused. These fuses serve several different things on the car, so I'll have to go through the wiring diagram and start taking connectors apart to pin it down. I'm pretty sure the radio/booster is one of the main issues.
It's titled; finally. After paying $540.75 in fees and bond I have a clear piece of paper, that will be unblemished after 3 years. It's almost a certainty that I will own it that long, so I guess it was worth the hassle.
I took the ign cap off and yes, it was a disgusting mess in there. This car has a lot of deferred mx. Ordered up a new cap, rotor and coil wire.
Last night I went after the parasitic current draw. With my ammeter connected, I show about 65mA of current flow. I took each fuse out in sequence and found the following loads:
Fuse 11 - 37mA
Fuse 39 - 14mA
So with those two fuses out I have about 14mA left that I think is unfused. These fuses serve several different things on the car, so I'll have to go through the wiring diagram and start taking connectors apart to pin it down. I'm pretty sure the radio/booster is one of the main issues.
06-28-2012, 04:26 PM
#53
Instructor
My great deal took a nasty hit to the pocketbook today, courtesy of the state of TX. Since I got it without a title, I have to get a surety bond to cover the eventuality that the car may be reclaimed by the title holder. OK, that's fair, I'm not trying to get one over on anybody.
Now, the actual value of the car is what I paid for it. Or - it is the fair market value which would be slightly higher than my price. Or - it would be the value placed on it by a third party appraiser, certified by the state. Or - it would be taken from the NADA guide, given it's mileage, condition, age, etc. Or - it would be based on a completely arbitrary, and made up number that comes from the state comptrollers office, which is completely meaningless to this vehicle.
Yep, last one. They are valuing the car for bond purposes at $23,898. So, I need to get a surety bond to cover the standard presumptive value of the car, with no allowance for mileage, condition, age(except if it is > 24 years). Technically, I could wait another 5 years and get it lowered, but I'm not gonna park if for 5 years. Looks like the damage will be about $400 over what I figured before. Shyte, this state pisses me off sometimes.
Now, the actual value of the car is what I paid for it. Or - it is the fair market value which would be slightly higher than my price. Or - it would be the value placed on it by a third party appraiser, certified by the state. Or - it would be taken from the NADA guide, given it's mileage, condition, age, etc. Or - it would be based on a completely arbitrary, and made up number that comes from the state comptrollers office, which is completely meaningless to this vehicle.
Yep, last one. They are valuing the car for bond purposes at $23,898. So, I need to get a surety bond to cover the standard presumptive value of the car, with no allowance for mileage, condition, age(except if it is > 24 years). Technically, I could wait another 5 years and get it lowered, but I'm not gonna park if for 5 years. Looks like the damage will be about $400 over what I figured before. Shyte, this state pisses me off sometimes.
The next steps are to contact the NY dealer and/or consult with DMV to see what options (if any) remain.
Congrats again on the purchase and especially on clearing the title issue.
Regards and continued success....
___________________
-Robert
'94 968 - Aventurine Green
'86 944 NA - Alpine White, parting out (slow death)
'86 951 - Alpine White (sold)
06-29-2012, 03:15 PM
#54
)
07-07-2012, 11:26 PM
#55
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I made good progress today. I got the fuel inj cleaned, replaced all the seals and put back. New cap, rotor and coil wire. new plugs, and put on the front hoses. Got it up in the air, and got the old fuel pump out, waiting on the new one. New filter, drained old gas, connected fuel lines, started putting on the front air dam. I fitted my lower belt cover, and modified the upper clear one I got on ebay. I'll have a separate thread on that later.
Three questions now. 1 How does the crank lock go in a 6 sp so I can take off the front crank bolt? 2 The lower front air dam has three mounting tabs facing toward the back. Mine are just hanging there in space, with nothing to screw too. I'm thinking there is another pan, or plate down there that I'm missing. If anyone knows what the rear of the lower air dam attaches to, that would be good. 3 Where is the connector for the Bosch hammer?
Three questions now. 1 How does the crank lock go in a 6 sp so I can take off the front crank bolt? 2 The lower front air dam has three mounting tabs facing toward the back. Mine are just hanging there in space, with nothing to screw too. I'm thinking there is another pan, or plate down there that I'm missing. If anyone knows what the rear of the lower air dam attaches to, that would be good. 3 Where is the connector for the Bosch hammer?
07-08-2012, 01:02 AM
#56
Nordschleife Master
I made good progress today. I got the fuel inj cleaned, replaced all the seals and put back. New cap, rotor and coil wire. new plugs, and put on the front hoses. Got it up in the air, and got the old fuel pump out, waiting on the new one. New filter, drained old gas, connected fuel lines, started putting on the front air dam. I fitted my lower belt cover, and modified the upper clear one I got on ebay. I'll have a separate thread on that later.
Three questions now. 1 How does the crank lock go in a 6 sp so I can take off the front crank bolt? 2 The lower front air dam has three mounting tabs facing toward the back. Mine are just hanging there in space, with nothing to screw too. I'm thinking there is another pan, or plate down there that I'm missing. If anyone knows what the rear of the lower air dam attaches to, that would be good. 3 Where is the connector for the Bosch hammer?
Three questions now. 1 How does the crank lock go in a 6 sp so I can take off the front crank bolt? 2 The lower front air dam has three mounting tabs facing toward the back. Mine are just hanging there in space, with nothing to screw too. I'm thinking there is another pan, or plate down there that I'm missing. If anyone knows what the rear of the lower air dam attaches to, that would be good. 3 Where is the connector for the Bosch hammer?
07-08-2012, 09:47 AM
#57
Starter needs to come out for the lock.
Hammer hooks into diagnostic port in pass. footwell.
968's have up to 3 underbody panels.
All have at least 2.
The batwing's 3 rear mounting points should screw into some j-bolts along the lower radiator mount.
I am about to take mine off to change oil.
You should download the parts catalog. It will really help you see where things go and what parts you may need.
Hammer hooks into diagnostic port in pass. footwell.
968's have up to 3 underbody panels.
All have at least 2.
The batwing's 3 rear mounting points should screw into some j-bolts along the lower radiator mount.
I am about to take mine off to change oil.
You should download the parts catalog. It will really help you see where things go and what parts you may need.
07-08-2012, 11:30 AM
#58
Drifting
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Caraquet-- New-Brunswick-- Canada
Posts: 2,728
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Starter needs to come out for the lock.
Hammer hooks into diagnostic port in pass. footwell.
968's have up to 3 underbody panels.
All have at least 2.
The batwing's 3 rear mounting points should screw into some j-bolts along the lower radiator mount.
I am about to take mine off to change oil.
You should download the parts catalog. It will really help you see where things go and what parts you may need.
Hammer hooks into diagnostic port in pass. footwell.
968's have up to 3 underbody panels.
All have at least 2.
The batwing's 3 rear mounting points should screw into some j-bolts along the lower radiator mount.
I am about to take mine off to change oil.
You should download the parts catalog. It will really help you see where things go and what parts you may need.
Last edited by ernie9468; 02-04-2013 at 06:35 PM.
07-08-2012, 11:52 AM
#59
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Excellent. I am missing the second and third under tray. Kind of surprised I have the batwing. I'll search around for the other two. Thanks all.
Where does one download the parts catalog?
Where does one download the parts catalog?
07-08-2012, 12:36 PM
#60
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
