Its been awhile since I've been in the game.
#1
Its been awhile since I've been in the game.
Last time i was here was in 2007!
I was frustrated college student belly up broke. My 87 924S blew a water pump and overheated really bad after only 10k on a front service which had drained my bank account, completely... I also had a wrecked 944 I bought for parts. I wasn't quite the mechanic I am now then either. I spent over $6000 on both cars and ended up selling both for $700 on a downpayment for a truck because I had nothing to drive!
Even though it was altogether a bad experience...
Right now there is a glut of 944/924's in my area for good prices, non running NICE examples for as cheap as 1500 bucks. I had a TON of problems with the car I had. I am looking for a 30mpg commuter car that will be fun to drive and still reliable enough to drive around 350-400miles per week. I feel with my current mechanical expertise, the right car and I could be very happy together.
Do these cars get 30mpg if treated right? my 87 got around 25 from what I remember.
I know most of the problems they have at this point from owning them before, such as the famous power steering pump seal, the oil cooler seals that make milkshake, head gasket, the shaft seals in the front cover, leaking sunroofs, non working power windows, rough shifting transmissions (with bad synchros) that you want to avoid...
Any pointers before I start kicking tires? Been awhile since I've been in the game. (wonder if anyone remembers me?)
I was frustrated college student belly up broke. My 87 924S blew a water pump and overheated really bad after only 10k on a front service which had drained my bank account, completely... I also had a wrecked 944 I bought for parts. I wasn't quite the mechanic I am now then either. I spent over $6000 on both cars and ended up selling both for $700 on a downpayment for a truck because I had nothing to drive!
Even though it was altogether a bad experience...
Right now there is a glut of 944/924's in my area for good prices, non running NICE examples for as cheap as 1500 bucks. I had a TON of problems with the car I had. I am looking for a 30mpg commuter car that will be fun to drive and still reliable enough to drive around 350-400miles per week. I feel with my current mechanical expertise, the right car and I could be very happy together.
Do these cars get 30mpg if treated right? my 87 got around 25 from what I remember.
I know most of the problems they have at this point from owning them before, such as the famous power steering pump seal, the oil cooler seals that make milkshake, head gasket, the shaft seals in the front cover, leaking sunroofs, non working power windows, rough shifting transmissions (with bad synchros) that you want to avoid...
Any pointers before I start kicking tires? Been awhile since I've been in the game. (wonder if anyone remembers me?)
#3
Last time i was here was in 2007!
I am looking for a 30mpg commuter car that will be fun to drive and still reliable enough to drive around 350-400miles per week. I feel with my current mechanical expertise, the right car and I could be very happy together.
Any pointers before I start kicking tires? Been awhile since I've been in the game. (wonder if anyone remembers me?)
I am looking for a 30mpg commuter car that will be fun to drive and still reliable enough to drive around 350-400miles per week. I feel with my current mechanical expertise, the right car and I could be very happy together.
Any pointers before I start kicking tires? Been awhile since I've been in the game. (wonder if anyone remembers me?)
If you are looking for a weekend cruiser then find a car with well documented history, and a folder full of reciepts!
#4
Something like this.
http://cedarrapids.craigslist.org/cto/3047830433.htm
Hondas and Toyotas are NOT fun to drive and dont inspire me to the slightest. One thing is I am very very tall (6'9"), and my Porsche was one of the most comfortable vehicles I've ever driven except perhaps a Ford Superduty. I did daily drive mine at the time and yes, it did prove to be a bit of a basket case...
Does anyone here DD theirs or is it one of those stupid ideas like going on a 15 mile hike in flip flops?
http://cedarrapids.craigslist.org/cto/3047830433.htm
Hondas and Toyotas are NOT fun to drive and dont inspire me to the slightest. One thing is I am very very tall (6'9"), and my Porsche was one of the most comfortable vehicles I've ever driven except perhaps a Ford Superduty. I did daily drive mine at the time and yes, it did prove to be a bit of a basket case...
Does anyone here DD theirs or is it one of those stupid ideas like going on a 15 mile hike in flip flops?
#5
I feel like I am being mean to my car which was garaged and babied for 23 years, having only covered 66000 miles. Who am I to bring it to school and leave it outside (covered) and use it to get the groceries? It is turning out to be pretty expensive to keep it in top shape too... If I were to buy again, and wanted a 944, I think I would go with an NA model for less (and less expensive) parts, but I would probably go for an S2 or 968 (not less expensive, but still slightly easier to work on). That said, I love my car and I am not going to stop driving or switch cars at this point. If anything needs replacing at this point, then I might as well upgrade that component when I replace it.
And I haven't seen an NA do better than 25-26mpg, but that's not so bad, 30 mpg is only a few dollars less on fuel per year.
One more thing: have you driven the FR-S, reminded me of a 944 very much, only more rigid and tossable, with slightly less room in the trunk. It would definitely be a fun DD though, can't wait a few years til a good used one can be found.
And I haven't seen an NA do better than 25-26mpg, but that's not so bad, 30 mpg is only a few dollars less on fuel per year.
One more thing: have you driven the FR-S, reminded me of a 944 very much, only more rigid and tossable, with slightly less room in the trunk. It would definitely be a fun DD though, can't wait a few years til a good used one can be found.
#6
I would suggest a 87+ 8 valve if you do get one, don't skimp on the maintenance and it can be a reliable DD, just get the best condition you can find/afford. I drove my 87 na for 3 yrs before I moved up to an S2, I once had the gage on it steady at 40 mpg when driving on very smooth flat highway. I daily drive mine and it is all I will ever own until the day comes that I can afford a Cayman S
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#8
I daily drive a 996 - not much more money than a good turbo... and it's a much more modern car. Same with Boxsters, but those might not be as comfortable for a tall person.
Whatever you get, buy the best example you can afford!
Whatever you get, buy the best example you can afford!
#9
Why do people continue to tell people to avoid '86 and below cars? Just curious as I see no disadvantage and this is always brought up on these threads. An '86 NA is equal to an '87 and realy has little to no difference other than belt tensioner(arguable which is better) and late offset.
#12
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From: Las Cruces NM (NMSU) / Fountain Hills AZ (home)
#13
Have to say it doesn't matter the age, its how well it has been taken care of..with my 84 I had NO hesitation in gasing it up and driving back and forth 1000kms round trip, wouldn't even need to check the oil.
The belt diff to the tensioner years is a convienience no big deal if you are checking/adjusting yourself the tensioner could fail as easy as any other part. The OPR is a non issue, if they are well taken cared for, most cars have been updated to the newer style. If you had one sticking, you would update and of course redo all the cooler seals etc.
I say buy the best documented you can afford, be prepared to drop $1K into getting it right, if you are shopping at the 1500-2500 range. Drive it. Has more smile per mile than a rusty civic.
My 19yr old son just bought a 86 NA with 204Kkms for 2KCDN, needs brakes all around and the ac is done. Came with front rotors and pads not installed. It is in better shape than a lot I've seen for 4-6K asking prices. Biggest risk is if it had serious engine issues, would mean an off season rebuild or donor engine for $1k-1.5K and some wrenching. I would still rather have a 2K car I put 1.5K into, then buy someones 3.5K car. Here is the list of items we are doing right away.
Oil change + filters
brakes all around (caliper rebuild, complete cleaning resivoir, painting)
Clutch bleed
install ac delete kit
clean and grease front bearings
belt inspection/tension (belts, pump, coolant) shortly in necessary
gear oil
Plan to have him set for 2days with the BMW club in july at the track.
I'm just a "wrencher" for him, showing him how to do it...kind a fun to see him fall in love with the car.
The belt diff to the tensioner years is a convienience no big deal if you are checking/adjusting yourself the tensioner could fail as easy as any other part. The OPR is a non issue, if they are well taken cared for, most cars have been updated to the newer style. If you had one sticking, you would update and of course redo all the cooler seals etc.
I say buy the best documented you can afford, be prepared to drop $1K into getting it right, if you are shopping at the 1500-2500 range. Drive it. Has more smile per mile than a rusty civic.
My 19yr old son just bought a 86 NA with 204Kkms for 2KCDN, needs brakes all around and the ac is done. Came with front rotors and pads not installed. It is in better shape than a lot I've seen for 4-6K asking prices. Biggest risk is if it had serious engine issues, would mean an off season rebuild or donor engine for $1k-1.5K and some wrenching. I would still rather have a 2K car I put 1.5K into, then buy someones 3.5K car. Here is the list of items we are doing right away.
Oil change + filters
brakes all around (caliper rebuild, complete cleaning resivoir, painting)
Clutch bleed
install ac delete kit
clean and grease front bearings
belt inspection/tension (belts, pump, coolant) shortly in necessary
gear oil
Plan to have him set for 2days with the BMW club in july at the track.
I'm just a "wrencher" for him, showing him how to do it...kind a fun to see him fall in love with the car.
#14
I've been daily driving my 951 for over 3years, haven't had any major issues. The key is having the maintenance up to date, mines not all done but every month I am fixing something as preventative maintenance (my car suffered lots of neglect from previous owner). My plan is by next summer to start fixing all my cosmetic stuff like torn seats, need a new nose panel, fiberglass rear bumper etc...
So far I have only the motor/tranny mounts, ball joints, outer tie rods, sway bar and control arm bushings left.
Here's the basic list so far, doesn't have everything but has around 90% or so.
944 Turbo Maintenance:
Clutch 8/01/09
Cap and Rotor 8/17/09
Ignition Coil 8/17/09
Spark Plugs 8/19/09
Tires 2/15/10
Vac Lines and Venturi Delete 5/13/10
Fuel Pump 7/25/10
Rear Shocks 8/11/10
Idle Air Valve 8/20/10
Rear Right Wheel Bearing 9/05/10
Oxygen Sensor 09/05/10
Fuel Pressue Regulator 5/25/11
Mass Air Sensor 5/25/11
Map Sensor 5/25/11
Fuel Damper Hose 7/20/11
Timing Belt/Balance Belt/Water pump 10/21/11
Serpentine Belt 10/21/11
Wires 1/15/12
Front Strut Assemblies 5/15/12
Fuel Injectors 4/10/12
Front Wheel Bearings and Seals 4/13/12
Throttle Position Switch 4/13/12
Intercooler Coupler Kit 5/17/12
Depowered Steering 6/1/12
So far I have only the motor/tranny mounts, ball joints, outer tie rods, sway bar and control arm bushings left.
Here's the basic list so far, doesn't have everything but has around 90% or so.
944 Turbo Maintenance:
Clutch 8/01/09
Cap and Rotor 8/17/09
Ignition Coil 8/17/09
Spark Plugs 8/19/09
Tires 2/15/10
Vac Lines and Venturi Delete 5/13/10
Fuel Pump 7/25/10
Rear Shocks 8/11/10
Idle Air Valve 8/20/10
Rear Right Wheel Bearing 9/05/10
Oxygen Sensor 09/05/10
Fuel Pressue Regulator 5/25/11
Mass Air Sensor 5/25/11
Map Sensor 5/25/11
Fuel Damper Hose 7/20/11
Timing Belt/Balance Belt/Water pump 10/21/11
Serpentine Belt 10/21/11
Wires 1/15/12
Front Strut Assemblies 5/15/12
Fuel Injectors 4/10/12
Front Wheel Bearings and Seals 4/13/12
Throttle Position Switch 4/13/12
Intercooler Coupler Kit 5/17/12
Depowered Steering 6/1/12
#15
I use my '86 for my main car, but honestly I don't drive so much any more. When I was working I drove it to work every day for 3 years, never a problem. I had a backup truck, and a bike in nice weather. I was also not in total stop'n'go type driving, a good 13 mile commute, what you'd call suburban driving mostly, with a 7 mile stretch of 60 mph highway. It never let me down, but I had done all the usual maintenance up front. In summer I'd get 23 mpg with the A/C on, a little better in the winter. I've also taken it on a 3500 mile trip back to your neck of the woods, and intend to do it again this summer.
Don't be afraid, just prep it right first, and have an alternative so you can take it down now and then for updates.
Don't be afraid, just prep it right first, and have an alternative so you can take it down now and then for updates.