Damn, rear shocks might take 20 minutes total to swap out, including lifting and lowering the car...

And yes, you just have to figure out precisely how deep to cut the piston reliefs so that valves at max lift don't touch.

 

A head job isnt that much harder than a belt, waterpump job though. If you can do belts etc you can do the head. I guess you can throw in the cost of a head gasket kit though, but if you do your own work then a belt snapping isnt the end of the world.

 

I'm not going to bother reading the other posts, but I did my TB/WP job in my driveway with no special tools and a mechanically young and inexperienced mind.

We took the rollers and regreased the bearings, no point in getting new ones.

New timing belt sourced for around 100 bucks, belts ~50 bucks. That's all we spent on the whole thing.

Finger twist method's just fine.

Well, it's been 8,000 miles and absolutely no problems. Why waste your money on "WYIT" items that don't actually need replaced, and tools that you don't actually need?

 

finger twist method works fine, did it the first few years till my good friend got a 9201 and now I borrow it way too often.. get a remanufactured waterpump for 100 bucks and save the worry though...

 

The only tool a purchased was a flywheel lock and it wasn't needed, I just purchased as an excuse for future jobs. Do it yourself and take your sweet time, triple check everything if your not sure. You will do well, I didn't my first one by myself and just read a lot. I only replaced one roller and that was the manual tension roller the rest were replaced by previous owner.

 

Butters, to each their own I guess. I wouldn't risk it. Honda? Sure, could care less...but I love my Porsche too much to cut corners, especially if we're talking $500 to replace it all. (rollers, seals, belts, pump, the works). The peace of mind knowing I have a solid, non leaking car is priceless.

Double points awarded since I saved the $2k it costs to do the job at the dealership, lol! Most places around here START at a grand for the labor to do this. Even just for the stupid easy as **** belts.

While you're in there is a life saver. I'm sorry, I just believe it. Had I not, my oil cooler would've failed. And I'd be super pissed. Is it a two day job for the newbie? Sure. Learning curve is steep, but that's education for ya. After you got the na down, then you move up to the Turbo

 

Do it right, there are no shortcuts You will be a lot poorer When it letsgo its just a matter of time ,How long is anybodys guess . John

 

Personally im in the camp that says spending a little more now isn't so bad. Get at least a rebuilt pump and do the rollers. Cheap insurance to be able to forget about it for a while.

 

There's theory, and reality. I'd bet you're going to find that several of the rollers/tensioners are bad, no grease left (and I don't see how you can regrease a sealed bearing?). So it just depends if you want to wait another week to only replace the parts that are bad, or be done in a day and with a little less cash in your pocket.

If you are truly that poor, you own the wrong car!

 

I've been truly that poor and still afforded to do it,lol! And on unemployment. lol!

How? Did not, NOT leave the house for three months unless it was free and I didn't drive. No extras, instead of call liquor well was had.

Ya gotta give up something. Heck, I dropped a 2 pack a day smoke habit and had money to burn after!

 

$325 shipped. Timing / Bal belts (Gates), All rollers, Rebuilt water pump, water pump gasket and timing belt wrench.
If you are interested hit me up. Number is in my sig or PM me. For this price, please just fix the car right so I don't have to buy it for $500 in a couple of months and part it out. There have been far too many of these cars listed for sale lately with timing belt failures.

 

Damn you, Travis. I was all psyched up to defy conventional wisdom and do just the belts and nothing more. But if your going to be that generous, then I will accept it and change it all out. Thank you. -Brian

 

One can use a pocket knife and pick or similar tools and with care work the seal and steel ring out of the "open side" of a sealed bearing. If you are careful you can do it without damaging anything. Then clean the races, ball bearings and inspect with magnification and a sensitive touch. Before disassembly feel the tightness of the bearing; if there is play it is worn out. If the races or ball bearings are pitted or galled they are worn out. I would be intolerant of any wear on a critical bearing such as a tensioner. But what grease does one use (axle grease?) and how much is enough and how much is too much? I don't know if there is a particular grease for these bearings or not. If anyone knows then please tell us.

It would be nice to disassemble, clean and regrease the roller bearings during a belt change when changing the rollers is not scheduled.

I might regrease the sealed bearings on the lawn tractor mandrels with axle grease & put them back in service, the consequences of failure are minor but I haven't done it on the 944 engine.

I always thought the "sealed" of sealed bearings means sealed from dirt getting in with the little rubber "seal". Next time before throwing away your old roller do an autopsy just for fun & see how much wear it has and how much dirt slipped past the seal and how much grease is left. Good luck and have fun.

 

That is a terrific price. Shipped! With a timing belt wrench.
The belt kit alone is $227 with the 46mm roller.

Is this part of the Memorial Day Specials or permanent?

Thanks,
John_AZ

 

I wish it was part of the sale but It is just for this guy. I happen to have a rebuilt NA water pump on the shelf that someone ordered but never paid for, so it works out.